Heresy: No lift 33" tires - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
tomk864
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Heresy: No lift 33" tires

I'm contemplating going to 33" tires without a lift.
Thinking of 33x10.5 BFG TAs.
Light wheeling. No serious mud. No serious rocks.
(I want to get out into nature, not conquer it.)

I've heard that one can do this with a combination of proper back spacing
and flat fenders. (This is on a 99 TJ Sport).

Anyone done this?
Some of my concerns:
- What backspacing should I use? 4 3/4"? Less?
- Will this eliminate rubbing through all possible articulation?
- Will this allow full turn radius?

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post #2 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 07:01 PM
Gavpowell
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I have 33x12.50 No lift on my 99. It rubbed a little bit so I adjusted the turning radius. At the same time I bought some 1.25 spacers. I'm sure the adjustment would have been fine though. I love the look though. I figure I'm light enough not too much stress will be put on the bearings. With 10.5 wide you shouldn't have too much of a problem as far as I know. Right now I have the flares off and love the aggressive look. Have some tube fenders I have to weld this summer.

"Jeeps don't get stuck, they just take rests... in deep holes. that sometime require an external force to be awoken.."

"Everybody strap in... we're bout to open some f***in windows." Samuel L. Jackson

"Jeeps don't get stuck, they just take quick naps... in deep holes... that sometime require an external force to be awoken." Anon "Everybody strap in... we're about to open some f***ing windows." Samuel L. Jackson
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post #3 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 07:03 PM
apache2158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavpowell View Post
I have 33x12.50 No lift on my 99. It rubbed a little bit so I adjusted the turning radius. At the same time I bought some 1.25 spacers. I'm sure the adjustment would have been fine though. I love the look though. I figure I'm light enough not too much stress will be put on the bearings. With 10.5 wide you shouldn't have too much of a problem as far as I know. Right now I have the flares off and love the aggressive look. Have some tube fenders I have to weld this summer.

"Jeeps don't get stuck, they just take rests... in deep holes. that sometime require an external force to be awoken.."

"Everybody strap in... we're bout to open some f***in windows." Samuel L. Jackson
Can I see some pictures of what that looks like?
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post #4 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 07:14 PM
LilyBayXJ
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33's without a lift generally isn't a good idea. The LCOG rigs that do it on the stock suspension have significant modifications the body and drivetrain to allow the axles to articulate and increase the ground clearance.

On the stock suspension with no significant mods, those tires are going to rub going over speedbumps. Take the flares off if you want, but it's going to leave mounting holes exposed on the body, and generally look like ****.

If you want to get out and enjoy the outdoors with some light wheeling on stock suspension, you can't beat 31's. It gives a stock Jeep a nice off-road look, doesn't cause nearly as much power loss as 33's on stock gearing, and can clear the fenders and provide great articulation if you disconnect the front swaybar.

Honestly, an unmodified Jeep with be much more capable off-road with 31's then 33's.

Here's some pictures of my old TJ with 31's on stock suspension. I wheeled it all the time and loved it.




2006 LJ - 4.0L, NSG370, 31's
2001 XJ - 4.0L, AW4, 3.5" lift, 31's
1997 TJ - 2.5L, AX5, 2.5" lift, 32's - Sold
1983 CJ-5 - Stock - Sold
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post #5 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 07:16 PM
A_Aulbach
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You could save yourself some headaches and money by just buying 31 inch tires. They fit with no further modifications needed.
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post #6 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 07:33 PM
Gavpowell
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http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/...psoisxx1lv.jpg


This was before the flares came off. If you don't plan on lifting it soon Yes I'd go with 31s I just spent the money on 33s so I wouldn't have to swap 31s for them when I lifted it.

"Jeeps don't get stuck, they just take rests... in deep holes. that sometime require an external force to be awoken.."

"Everybody strap in... we're bout to open some f***in windows." Samuel L. Jackson

"Jeeps don't get stuck, they just take quick naps... in deep holes... that sometime require an external force to be awoken." Anon "Everybody strap in... we're about to open some f***ing windows." Samuel L. Jackson
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 08:19 PM
UncleWilson
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You could always hi line the fenders until you find a small lift you like to gain the additional spring and shock lengths you need for your wheeling

2006 LJ Rubi JKS BL/MML, Curries Arms, 3", UCF Skids, Riddler, 35 GY MTR W/K, Black Rock 909's, Black Magic, Rokmen Sliders, Savvy GTS, Cloaked, 4.88

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post #8 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 09:01 PM
nmtj
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I have roughly two inches between the tire and the fender at full bump. Stock suspension, 1.25 body lift and MCE fenders. I rub slightly on the top of the coil bucket and the sway bar at full bump or full lock on 31s with stock wheels.

So unless you extend your bump stops you will need to do something to keep your tires off your flares. I think this also depends WHERE you wheel, if you don't disconnect your sway bar or go to full bump then that changes the answer.

If you did a 1" body lift, flat flares and wheels with 4.5 backspacing or less you would be fine on 33x10.5x15, maybe even 12.5. I'm not staying this is the only way, just one of many.
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-26-2014, 09:50 PM
JeepnBlake
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In all honesty you can get the tires to rub on 31s, and you could probably be just fine on the street with 33s all stock. I've run both.

33" Baja Claws 3.75 BS on MT mock locks.






This is when my Ruby was all stock, and I borrowed these wheels from another TJ we had.

I have pics of another jeep on 31s flexing in a very similar, albeit "harder" way. If you all really want pics I'll throw them on PB, but the reality is it rubs in nearly all the same places. Front flares on the furthest outside edge, especially when turning. Rear flares on the furthest outside edge, and top of the flare arch.

Look at the pics above and imagine more flex, and see where the tires will go.
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-27-2014, 05:21 AM
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-27-2014, 07:05 AM
AllTerrainJK
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This is my son's TJ with Smitty tube fenders, 1" Daystar BL, stock rear springs, '96 XJ front springs, two washers behind the steering stops, 33x12.5x15 GY Duratracs on 8" rims with 4.5 BS.


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post #12 of 18 Old 02-27-2014, 08:46 AM
Border Dave
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33s with stock gearing sucks. 31s are the way to go as others have already stated.
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-27-2014, 10:17 AM
AllTerrainJK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Dave View Post
33s with stock gearing sucks. 31s are the way to go as others have already stated.
Depends on your stock gear ratio and which 33" tire you choose. With 3.07s I would agree 100%. My son has 3.73s and 33" Duratracs actually measure 32". While not ideal it's manageable. Really no differant than 31s with 3.07s.

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post #14 of 18 Old 02-27-2014, 10:53 AM
matthew900
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I ran 33x10.5 on stock rims with metal cloak fenders in the front and the setup worked well on the stock suspension. You'll get some minor rub on the control arms and swaybar. Without metal cloak or some other high clearance fender in the front 31x10.5 is the best you can do.
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-27-2014, 01:55 PM
OsteKuste
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The last JeepI had was a YJ with 4" lift and 33s. I now have my TJ with 0 lift and 31s. I have some stock steelies and some Spidertrax 1.25" spacers, with sway bar disco's. 31" BFGs just barely buzz the underside of the Sahara flares if I cross a bad rut at full lock. No rubbing on the coil bucket or control arm. This Jeep is easier to drive, more capable than my old YJ even without the bigger tires, and much better as a daily driver. The 31s are perfect with my stock 3.73 gears.



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