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Here is what I'm having trouble removing (mainly cause I don't know what it is)
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#16 | |
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Web Wheeler
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If you take them out, you'll have to reinstall all those brake lines, bleed the brakes, etc. If you can do the job with that stuff in there, I'd do it. Otherwise....I'd have a pro help you with it. If you don't know what that stuff is, you don't know how to properly remove and replace them.
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#17 | |
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#18 | ||
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those parts no longer have any practical use. the brake system is now controlled completely by your pcm via a wireless remote system, but it was cheaper for DC to leave them in, rather than redesign the engine compartment and reengineer the manufacturing process. in order to remove them, you must first remove and discard the wingnut behind the steering wheel.
![]() edit: i am just kidding with you, i noticed that you blasted the others for joking around.
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98 Sahara Quote:
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Last edited by thesherm; 08-13-2006 at 12:59 AM.. |
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#19 | |
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OK I have read both of your threads now about what you are doing. My best advice to you is go to the parts store and by a Chiltons (or Haynes) Manual for roughly 20$. It will give you step by step directions to do almost anything. Then you can decide if a job is too big (or dangerious) for you to do. The best part is, IT HAS PICTURES!!!
In response to this perticular situation, STAY AWAY FROM YOUR BRAKES! Pads and shoes are easy swaps, but a master cylinder, not the best thing to do if you are not sure of your abilities (or what the shiny metal things are) Yes we were all FNG's (F'n New Guy) at one point, my first beater was an 86 Cutlass w/ a V8 (it was 12 years old). I learned alot on it; well because I could not afford to pay to have a water pump replaced (or what ever broke that week) by a pro.
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EC4WDA Region D Schedule 2008 - Who says there is nowhere to run in New England and New York Quote:
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#20 |
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Registered User
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I see... I see...
A Darwin Award in your future.
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2000 TJ Sport, 3-speed slushbox HP30, ChroMoly shafts, Ford 8.8 rear, 4.10s 35s ORIGINAL Black Jeep Club Member #34 ThePointbreak.org | Mods and Wheeling pics |
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#21 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey, Exit 105
Posts: 1,923
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Remember... A match is better then a flash light when looking down the fill tube of your fuel tank. Don't worry, gas isnt flamable... but the fumes are. |
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#22 | |
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Web Wheeler
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#23 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Yeah I have a haynes...just can't find it right now... Thats what lead to all these questions. This is why the responses I got to my first thread are so funny. "Just take out the battery and undo the bolts" Yeah cause that's all that is connected to the fenders..... Anyway I was just looking to see if this was something I could disconnect and if so how. Strange thing is everything I read in haynes said just to disconnect stuff an take it off (I don't remember any "watch out for the brakes") Anyway thanks for the help |
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#24 |
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Registered User
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Not gonna give a smart answer since so many other people have. But have you thought about trimming the inside of that fender to fit around the brake parts? It could work and then you could get some rubber or something to cover the gaps to keep mud and water out. Just trying to help out but seems like it could work.
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#25 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Home of the Super Bowl XLI Champion Indianapolis Colts
Posts: 911
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Dude, you need to get a FSM and figure out what you're doing. People are hesitant to give you an answer because you readily admitted that you don't know what it is.
I see nothing wrong with not being able to identify a part on a Jeep or it's function... although Jeeps are the most simplistic, Luddite vehicle made today (or last month at least), they are still complex pieces of machinery with many interdependencies that were determined by professional engineers working with advanced software in a lab environment. Most of us are back-yard mechanics being very creative - and occassionally brilliant - with our tweaks and mods to what DCX produced. It starts by understanding what you're looking at... asking questions is fine, reading is fine. But you're already looking to rip it out before you know WTF it is or what chain of events will result in this endeavor. If you do not know what you are looking at, you have no business touching it. And you should not get butt-hurt that no one wants to help you rip out something that will likely get you or someone else killed. A better thread would have been "WTF is this, and what does it do?" |
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#26 | ||
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the truth is, many of us on here need advice and this is a great forum to come to for help. i think the jokes are funny and add to the enjoyment.
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#27 | |
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Web Wheeler
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That is one of the thoughts. well really just play it by ear (eye I guess) and figure it out while we go. |
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#28 | |
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Registered User
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Now...back to the questions... The silver thingy is part of your ABS system, it's what sends the pulses to the brakes, the proportioning valve, not that you asked but someone else mentioned it, is actually attached to the aluminum box that is attached to the round black thingy, which by the way is the brake booster, this is what gives you power brakes. To remove these items is really quite simple, unbolt everything (the brake booster usually unbolts from under the dash - not sure about TJ's, never looked at mine, however, you will, as mentioned before in this thread, have to completely, and I mean completely redo the hydraulics in your brake system, not very fun by the way. My suggestion is to leave it alone if you can. If you DON'T ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO remove it DON'T! It's a real pain in the arse, not to mention a little time consuming, to completely redo the hydraulics in your brakes. Something else to consider is you may get some contaminants in your lines and that would suck. Either way, good luck to you and don't forget to ask more questions... p.s. There are no stupid questions, just stupid answers... |
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#29 | ||||||
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Web Wheeler
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I am not sitting here saying come on be nice to me guys or gettting mad about the jokes that I should just remove everything. But rather at the way people here act. AND the fact that some how even though this whole thing happens on computers, some of you guys can't f-ing read Quote:
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#30 | |
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Web Wheeler
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I have no problem with making fun of the fact that I called it the shiny thing (atleast everyone knew what I was talking about.) Is the aluminum box just a bad to remove? Would it cause as much problems to re-connect? Really the main reason it needs to come out is so I can mod the fender and the support bracket. It will be going in about the same place as where it came out. |
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