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Unread 06-14-2013, 04:23 PM   #1
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HELP w/shorter antirock links

Well my wife surprised me today for my birthday/going away present with a Currie Antirock swaybar.

That was about an hour ago and needless to say it is already on lol but I am left with the question of how can I modify the link anymore for my needs.

I have a 2.5" lift and I have cut the threads down as far as possible to keep the link ends in place but I am not at my desired measured length. It is around 7 3/4" from joint to joint and I need to be around 7 1/4" for the middle hole. the 7 3/4" puts me at the stiffest hole and I would like to know if there is a way to get shorter links.

My search function hasn't been working over the past 3 days and I haven't seen shorter links on the currie website.

any help is appreciated.

EDIT:
The instructions say keep arms parallel, I have the arms parallel to the ground. don't know if they just need to be parallel to each other or to the ground as I have it.

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Unread 06-14-2013, 06:04 PM   #2
TimV
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The arms should be parallel to the frame, not the ground. The frame actually angles up a bit from the front. I think mine are angled approximately 15 degrees from parallel with the ground.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 06:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeProof View Post
Well my wife surprised me today for my birthday/going away present with a Currie Antirock swaybar.

That was about an hour ago and needless to say it is already on lol but I am left with the question of how can I modify the link anymore for my needs.

I have a 2.5" lift and I have cut the threads down as far as possible to keep the link ends in place but I am not at my desired measured length. It is around 7 3/4" from joint to joint and I need to be around 7 1/4" for the middle hole. the 7 3/4" puts me at the stiffest hole and I would like to know if there is a way to get shorter links.

My search function hasn't been working over the past 3 days and I haven't seen shorter links on the currie website.

any help is appreciated.

EDIT:
The instructions say keep arms parallel, I have the arms parallel to the ground. don't know if they just need to be parallel to each other or to the ground as I have it.
You can run them slightly long as long as they don't hit the underside of the grill on full stuff.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 07:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine

You can run them slightly long as long as they don't hit the underside of the grill on full stuff.
I don't understand how i would "run them slightly long". Does that mean I can angle the arms higher?

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Unread 06-14-2013, 07:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeProof View Post
I don't understand how i would "run them slightly long". Does that mean I can angle the arms higher?

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Yes, operating angle makes no difference as long as the arms dont hit the grill/fenders with uptravel and dont invert with downtravel.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 07:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeProof View Post
I don't understand how i would "run them slightly long". Does that mean I can angle the arms higher?

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You can run them whatever angle works as long as they don't jam up at stuff and invert at droop. There is no magic to the arm angle.
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Unread 06-14-2013, 09:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar

You can run them whatever angle works as long as they don't jam up at stuff and invert at droop. There is no magic to the arm angle.
Technically not true.

The angle between the links and the arms should be kept as close to 90 degrees as possible.

Mechanically, this gives you the best (and most constant) performance.

This is assuming a 50/50 up/downtravel ratio.

But, as stated earlier, first make sure nothing will hit at full bump and full droop.

The angle between arms and the ground is largely irrelevant.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 04:49 AM   #8
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I appreciate all the responses. what about not using the "jam" nuts, the ones that tighten against the joint. if I don't have any thread left for those nuts is that a problem?
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Unread 06-15-2013, 05:14 AM   #9
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I might end up going with the 6.5" JK links if they will work and I in fact need jam nuts.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 05:17 AM   #10
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Yes, jam nuts are a must to keep it from unthreading or messing up the threads.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 06:47 AM   #11
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I would call Currie.
They do make different length "end link rods"
Looks like they make 6.5" / 8.5" / 10.5" / 14" end link rods. All of which can be cut down some. Keep in mind these are not solid thread rods so a person can't buy the longest one and trim it down too short or you will cut off all the threads.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...s.aspx?id=1234
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Unread 06-15-2013, 07:15 AM   #12
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fml, thanks for the info. i'll call in a little
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Unread 06-15-2013, 08:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon-0 View Post
Technically not true.

The angle between the links and the arms should be kept as close to 90 degrees as possible.

Mechanically, this gives you the best (and most constant) performance.

This is assuming a 50/50 up/downtravel ratio.
While I am not a mechanical guy I think I understand where you are going with this and I'd suggest it may be a difference on paper but in reality makes no noticeable difference in the performance of the AR.
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Unread 06-15-2013, 08:28 AM   #14
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Putting all the helpful info I've received together here is my plan

Disconnect my links

Expose enough threads to get the jam nuts on

Raise the arms enough where it'll fit with the new total length of the links

Flex it

If I don't hit anything ill be good

If I do then ill be careful driving while I order the shorter links

Thanks to all, jeepforum and its members to the rescue yet again

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Unread 06-15-2013, 08:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
While I am not a mechanical guy I think I understand where you are going with this and I'd suggest it may be a difference on paper but in reality makes no noticeable difference in the performance of the AR.
you are correct.
In practice, a range from 80 degrees through 100 degrees at ride height makes little difference in real world feel.

once you go past this range, it does start to make a difference, and the further you go, the quicker it changes.

think about it this way...
the torsion bar only cares about the torque applied to it. the length of the arms doesn't matter to it.

if your arm is 10 inches long and at a 90 degree angle to the links which push up with 10 lbs of force, the forces are all at right angles and the torque transferred to the torsion bar is
(10lbf) x (10in) = 100 ft-lb

now let's say that the arm angle is 45 degrees (an extreme case, i know)

the arm pushes up with 10 lb of force, but the apparent arm length is only 7.07 inches. This means that the sway bar feels much stiffer than it really is.

by installing the arms at any other angle, you are shortening the effective length of the arm.

there are much more complicated dynamics that come into play with suspension travel, but this is the gist of it, and why you are encouraged to keep the arms and links at a 90 degree angle.


all this said, your installation package takes priority unless you are comfortable cutting and clearancing to make room for your arms and links.

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