I am in some desperate need for some expert advice about my rear brakes. Here's the quick story and problem.
Doing a routine brake change. Changed the front (disc) brake pads no problem. Went to change the rear drum shoes and apparently they hadn't been changed since factory. They had a very weird slit down the middle where there was no pad and just the 2 outsides had pad, so my drums obviously had an awesome ring of rust. Took them to O'Reillys to put on a lathe and smooth them out. The guy said that the diameter is now approx 9" which is about the max I can go before changing the drums. They came out perfectly smooth. Put together the assembly with new shoes and made the proper adjustments before put the rear end back down and drove around for a bit. I did the forward and reverse to get the shoes adjusted properly and I cannot figure out why I have the constant scraping noise of the drums rubbing against the shoes. My e-brake goes all the way up and still doesn't apply pressure to the brakes, so it's useless right now.
I took the wheels and drums off the make sure they're installed properly and they look like they are. When I took the drum off from driving around a bit thinking the brake would wear it, I have this circle groove in the drum that looks like the adjuster lever has been grinding on. I'm clueless right now on what to do and am getting ready to take it to a repair shop if I can't get any help on here. I am attaching pictures of both sides and both drums so someone can tell me if they spot something wrong. Please help, this is my DD and don't want to foot a repair shop bill if I can avoid it. Thanks,
I just changed my drums and had the same thing happen on one side. For me, it was the adjuster lever grinding on the drum. I had to play with the springs or the cable to make sure it wasn't sitting too low. I don't remember what finally fixed it. It doesn't take much of a change to affect the way these things operate.
This was my first drum brake job. Maybe somebody with more experience has an exact answer for you. Good luck!
[QUOTE=stokerdog;14375891]75mph and TJ's don't mix. Your Jeep is a brick on roller skate with a tractor motor.[/QUOTE]
It looks like the adjuster doesnít have enough tension on it and it is hanging down rubbing on the drum. Iím no expert but I think the adjustment lever should be engaging the adjustment screw assembly teeth. It looks like either the spring is worn out or the adjuster cable is to long. If you look at post #28 of this thread you can see what I mean. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/re...78/index2.html
Looks like you installed the cable correctly to me?? I just did this job on my jeep. Your cable simply looks too long. Did the cable have tension on it before you took it off? If so, something has changed there.
Thanks for all the help guys, I did a look over on both sides and the left side didn't have the ebrake lever attached to the shoe, so that's one fix. And both self adjustment cables were factory and indeed are too long. Local parts store has 2 in stock so I'm gonna pick those up and hope it's a good fix. I just hope the groove the adjustment lever put in the drum doesn't require new drums. More info to come!
Update: I got 2 of the self-adjusting cables from O'Reillys, they were $5 each. They were an exact match from the factory ones. They were almost exactly the same in length, didn't notice much of a difference when compared. When I installed the new ones I just made sure that when I installed both springs in front of the cable eyelit I nudged it up some to tighten the slack. After that the adjustment lever was making contact with the start wheel and it was good to go. No more scraping and when I did my backing up to equalize the adjusters. I felt my back tires lock up and my e-brake is back to normal. If anyone needs the part number for the adjustment cable it's 3005061 at O'Reillys. Thanks for all the help on short notice!
The only thing that holds that adjuster cable guide in its hole is the hook of the spring. It isn't a very solid design and it doesn't always hold the adjuster guide flat against the rear brake shoe bracket. This causes the adjuster cable to slack.
I drilled a hole through both the guide and brake shoe and put a small bolt throught it. That holds the guide snug against the shoe and keeps it seated in its hole no matter what. Of course, the guide doesn't swivel anymore, but still looks to work fine through the cable's range of motion. It's been working great for me for several years.
2000 TJ, 4.0L, 4" short arm suspension lift, 35" tires, Rear D44 and front HP30 both with ARBs and chromo shafts, NV3550.