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Unread 03-13-2013, 09:31 AM   #16
ratmonkey
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P1391 is loss of Cam or crank sensor synch. So one of those sensors is bad.
The other codes are for the coil rails. Disconnect, clean the contacts, and verify wiring continuity.

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Unread 03-13-2013, 06:57 PM   #17
Skortch311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
P1391 is loss of Cam or crank sensor synch. So one of those sensors is bad.
The other codes are for the coil rails. Disconnect, clean the contacts, and verify wiring continuity.
Appreciate that. There is an on-base self service Auto Skills Center through the MWR so I am going there this weekend to flush the tranny, clean and adjust the shoes, and use their real scanner to derive these codes. I'm just hesitant in believing Torque because I do not have a rough idle or anything, but maybe I'll be a believer this weekend. The check engine light turned off but the codes are still stored int he ECU.. I havent cleared them. I plan on using about a $100 in ATF to flush this beast. Thinking that if I can't ultimately flush 100% of the bad ATF out completely, I can flush out around 98% and prolong its remaining days. I'll let you guys know this weekend.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:13 PM   #18
JBTJ
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Let me see if my terminology is correct, if not others will correct me. The friction material that is adhered to the clutch plates is water soluble. So water in the transmission destroys this and no matter how many gallons of ATF you run through the transmission will not fix the problem. It's already too late. You will need to do a rebuild of the transmission. When you do, relocate the breather tube to a higher point so this doesn't happen again.
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Unread 03-23-2013, 05:52 PM   #19
Skortch311
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Flushed the transmission with about 15 qts total. Shifts fine now, kicks back down to 1st and 2nd. Hoooah! Thanks guys. I attached some pictures of the fluid.

Goin forward on the CKP sensor, installed the new one with the .030 paper spacer on the end. Cant get it to fire, not sure if the surface was able to shred off the spacer. I'm thinking about pulling the sensor again and peeling it off then adhering the spacer back to the edge of the sensor. Attempting to get the spacer loose and able to come off when I re-install it but still providing that gap.

I doubt, and have not checked, that the old sensor was bad. The code started to throw after I hit that hole (giggity). Could it be possible that mud got stuck on the wheel surface and plugging the gaps? My understanding is that the sensor picks up pulse widths from a surface behind the flywheel in order to determine speed. I took off the flywheel dust cover to see if I could feel the surface but my fingers were too fat to feel behind it.
imag0254.jpg   imag0256.jpg  
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Unread 03-23-2013, 05:57 PM   #20
Skortch311
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Shmegma
imag0257.jpg   imag0261.jpg  
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Unread 03-23-2013, 06:08 PM   #21
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And for S***s and giggles, here is the vid of the lil puddle. Its at 3:45

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=hHOpIbEMFgQ#!
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Unread 03-23-2013, 07:01 PM   #22
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
And for S***s and giggles, here is the vid of the lil puddle. Its at 3:45

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=hHOpIbEMFgQ#!
I'll bet you don't do that again...
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abs , dying , engine , sensor , transmission

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