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Unread 03-11-2013, 06:38 PM   #1
Skortch311
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Help: Non-abs wheel speed sensor, tranny hanging, engine dying

Hit some deep mud on Saturday. At the end of the run, I noticed I had no rear brakes, my check engine light was on, and my E-brake had no tension. If I pull the ebrake %50-%100 and hit the brakes I can feel the rear start to work. So I started thinking that my shoes were jacked. I scanned my ECU and it threw a code about the wheel speed sensor. I started to notice that I had issues shifting; tranny starts in first, hits second at 3000 and wont go into third. After stopping the tranny stays in second. Today the engine died twice in second at around 1700 rpm. I pulled out my FSM and read up on the wheel speed sensor.

My understanding is that if the sensors (which are located on the back plates to the drums and the knuckle) do not pick up a speed, the ABS system opens up and decreases pressure which is why my rear system is not fully functional. And, the ecu is not picking up a wheel speed so it does not know when to shift.

I got under the jeep to see if I could located the pigtails for the speed sensors. No go. Didn't have 'em. All I saw were the hydrolic lines in the front and the two lines in the rear. So i am assuming that I DO NOT HAVE ABS (next logical thing to do would be looking for the proportioning valve, but i like to be complicated). Yet, I have what looks like the DRM (???) chip above my shifter on the floor.

My questions:

1) Where are the speed sensors on a non-abs system,

2) wouldnt the ABS light be on,

and

3) does it make sense that all three of these issues - tranny, rear brakes , engine dying - are all connected?

Thanks guys

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Unread 03-11-2013, 07:15 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
Hit some deep mud on Saturday. At the end of the run, I noticed I had no rear brakes, my check engine light was on, and my E-brake had no tension. If I pull the ebrake %50-%100 and hit the brakes I can feel the rear start to work. So I started thinking that my shoes were jacked. I scanned my ECU and it threw a code about the wheel speed sensor. I started to notice that I had issues shifting; tranny starts in first, hits second at 3000 and wont go into third. After stopping the tranny stays in second. Today the engine died twice in second at around 1700 rpm. I pulled out my FSM and read up on the wheel speed sensor.

My understanding is that if the sensors (which are located on the back plates to the drums and the knuckle) do not pick up a speed, the ABS system opens up and decreases pressure which is why my rear system is not fully functional. And, the ecu is not picking up a wheel speed so it does not know when to shift.

I got under the jeep to see if I could located the pigtails for the speed sensors. No go. Didn't have 'em. All I saw were the hydrolic lines in the front and the two lines in the rear. So i am assuming that I DO NOT HAVE ABS (next logical thing to do would be looking for the proportioning valve, but i like to be complicated). Yet, I have what looks like the DRM (???) chip above my shifter on the floor.

My questions:

1) Where are the speed sensors on a non-abs system,

2) wouldnt the ABS light be on,

and

3) does it make sense that all three of these issues - tranny, rear brakes , engine dying - are all connected?

Thanks guys
Don't drive your Jeep at all.

Pull the dip stick for the transmission and look at the fluid, does it look like strawberry milkshake?

It sounds like you've got mud/water in the transmission and you've probably damaged it. The PCM only controls torque converter lockup in 3rd gear for your 32RH transmission.

The only speed sensor on your Jeep is the speedometer.

It sounds like your rear brakes are full of mud.

Change all of the transmission fluid and the filter, hope for the best...
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Unread 03-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #3
Skortch311
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So is the speed sensor code just an internal tranny sensor? I'm trying to figure out where it got the code from. Its like the FSM covers its location for the abs but not the non abs. I'll admit I should get under the B**** but its its rackin my brain right now.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 09:11 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
So is the speed sensor code just an internal tranny sensor? I'm trying to figure out where it got the code from. Its like the FSM covers its location for the abs but not the non abs. I'll admit I should get under the B**** but its its rackin my brain right now.
I don't know why you're getting a speed sensor code?

There is no speed sensor in the 32RH transmission.

What does the fluid on your transmission dip stick look like?

What is the OBD code that is showing?...
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Unread 03-11-2013, 10:57 PM   #5
hustler905
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Does your speedometer work? Your only speed sensor is in the transfer case.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 04:40 PM   #6
Skortch311
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Originally Posted by hustler905 View Post
Does your speedometer work? Your only speed sensor is in the transfer case.
Yes, speedometer is working.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 04:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
Hit some deep mud on Saturday. At the end of the run, I noticed I had no rear brakes, my check engine light was on, and my E-brake had no tension. If I pull the ebrake %50-%100 and hit the brakes I can feel the rear start to work. So I started thinking that my shoes were jacked. I scanned my ECU and it threw a code about the wheel speed sensor. I started to notice that I had issues shifting; tranny starts in first, hits second at 3000 and wont go into third. After stopping the tranny stays in second. Today the engine died twice in second at around 1700 rpm. I pulled out my FSM and read up on the wheel speed sensor.

My understanding is that if the sensors (which are located on the back plates to the drums and the knuckle) do not pick up a speed, the ABS system opens up and decreases pressure which is why my rear system is not fully functional. And, the ecu is not picking up a wheel speed so it does not know when to shift.

I got under the jeep to see if I could located the pigtails for the speed sensors. No go. Didn't have 'em. All I saw were the hydrolic lines in the front and the two lines in the rear. So i am assuming that I DO NOT HAVE ABS (next logical thing to do would be looking for the proportioning valve, but i like to be complicated). Yet, I have what looks like the DRM (???) chip above my shifter on the floor.

My questions:

1) Where are the speed sensors on a non-abs system,

2) wouldnt the ABS light be on,

and

3) does it make sense that all three of these issues - tranny, rear brakes , engine dying - are all connected?

Thanks guys
Bet that 32RH is toast or will be soon. The vent for those are to low down and can suck in water very easily. How does the ATF look?
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Unread 03-12-2013, 04:49 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
I don't know why you're getting a speed sensor code?

There is no speed sensor in the 32RH transmission.

What does the fluid on your transmission dip stick look like?

What is the OBD code that is showing?...

I purchased the cheap ELM327 and used the torque app on my phone, which looked up the code via web and gave me three results, a hyundai, chrysler and jeep code. The jeep code was the Wheel Speed Sensor fault. I cant's seem to find a resource with all the fault codes for a 2000 to verify it. It seems like its time to go rent and use an actual OBD II scanner.

Tranny has a very minute and small leak, but now that I put two n two together I can see the logic behind water in the tranny. The fluid and consistency is that of the regular at, but that is because I put ATF in it a couple days ago since the Jeep has been sitting for a year. With the Jeep running, small aeration bubble can be seen on the dip stick. I'm afraid to let it warm up and drive it to check the level (per FSM).

Any good at home tranny flush write-ups??
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Unread 03-12-2013, 04:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
I purchased the cheap ELM327 and used the torque app on my phone, which looked up the code via web and gave me three results, a hyundai, chrysler and jeep code. The jeep code was the Wheel Speed Sensor fault. I cant's seem to find a resource with all the fault codes for a 2000 to verify it. It seems like its time to go rent and use an actual OBD II scanner.

Tranny has a very minute and small leak, but now that I put two n two together I can see the logic behind water in the tranny. The fluid and consistency is that of the regular at, but that is because I put ATF in it a couple days ago since the Jeep has been sitting for a year. With the Jeep running, small aeration bubble can be seen on the dip stick. I'm afraid to let it warm up and drive it to check the level (per FSM).

Any good at home tranny flush write-ups??
Once water gets in there that's it. Flushing will not do any good. But, if you must try here is what I do.

How to completely remove your ATF from your 32RH transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's x 4' rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by dropping the pan and replacing the filter then replace pan and top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4. Next thing to do is disconnect the transmission supply line from the driver's side of the radiator. Connect your length of rubber hose to the supply line and run the other end to your milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened turn off the engine and dispose of the old ATF and add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 9 more quarts to complete this process. Total system holds 12 quarts.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 05:18 PM   #10
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Torque is a very good app. Think you're lost in translation here, post the actual p code you're getting on here.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 08:16 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
Torque is a very good app. Think you're lost in translation here, post the actual p code you're getting on here.
I attached a pic the P1391 code, along with 3 other codes that just popped up (FML x 2). Also attached is a screen shot of some gauge layouts.
dscn0133.jpg   dscn0134.jpg   dscn0135.jpg   dscn0136.jpg   dscn0137.jpg  

screenshot.jpg  
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Unread 03-12-2013, 08:30 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
Once water gets in there that's it. Flushing will not do any good. But, if you must try here is what I do.

How to completely remove your ATF from your 32RH transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's x 4' rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by dropping the pan and replacing the filter then replace pan and top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4. Next thing to do is disconnect the transmission supply line from the driver's side of the radiator. Connect your length of rubber hose to the supply line and run the other end to your milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened turn off the engine and dispose of the old ATF and add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 9 more quarts to complete this process. Total system holds 12 quarts.
I saw this done on Youtube but was hesitant to do it. I think some steps were missed in your post, so I just want to clarify:

Drain ATF from the pan, replace pan. put 3 qts in via dipstick.

Disconnect the ATF line that supplies the cooler coming from the transmission (output), and run it to an empty milk jug.

Disconnect the ATF line that supplies the transmission coming from the cooler (intake), to a 3 qt supply of ATF to be sucked into the transmission.

After the 3 qts are taken in, top off with 3 more from the filler tube.

Drain and repeat til clean.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #13
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Bet that 32RH is toast or will be soon. The vent for those are to low down and can suck in water very easily. How does the ATF look?
Yep.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/au...ation-1346356/

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Unread 03-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
How to completely remove your ATF from your 32RH transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's x 4' rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by dropping the pan and replacing the filter then replace pan and top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4. Next thing to do is disconnect the transmission supply line from the driver's side of the radiator. Connect your length of rubber hose to the supply line and run the other end to your milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened turn off the engine and dispose of the old ATF and add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 9 more quarts to complete this process. Total system holds 12 quarts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
I saw this done on Youtube but was hesitant to do it. I think some steps were missed in your post, so I just want to clarify:

Drain ATF from the pan, replace pan. put 3 qts in via dipstick.

Disconnect the ATF line that supplies the cooler coming from the transmission (output), and run it to an empty milk jug.

Disconnect the ATF line that supplies the transmission coming from the cooler (intake), to a 3 qt supply of ATF to be sucked into the transmission.

After the 3 qts are taken in, top off with 3 more from the filler tube.

Drain and repeat til clean.
Read JBTJ's post again, that is the correct way to change the transmission fluid in your Jeep...
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Unread 03-13-2013, 05:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skortch311 View Post
I saw this done on Youtube but was hesitant to do it. I think some steps were missed in your post, so I just want to clarify:

Drain ATF from the pan, replace pan. put 3 qts in via dipstick.

Disconnect the ATF line that supplies the cooler coming from the transmission (output), and run it to an empty milk jug.

After the 3 qts are taken in, top off with 3 more from the filler tube.

Drain and repeat til clean.
You added a step, I removed it for ya.
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