Help me pick out shocks for my 4" short arm lift - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Help me pick out shocks for my 4" short arm lift

I called up Savvy this morning to ask about their tuned fox shocks and the women I talked to said that their 12" eye to eye shocks work with the 4" short arm lift. Has anyone had experience with these? Since I'm eventually going to midarm and raised towers front and outboard rear I'd like to buy once now if I can reuse later, but based on what I know I'm not positive that's correct unless savvy and fox is doing some magic now?

What do you guys recommend?

I have an LJ.



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post #2 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 10:52 AM
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You're not going to find a shock for the stock mounts that you'll want to re-use after you do custom towers.


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post #3 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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You're not going to find a shock for the stock mounts that you'll want to re-use after you do custom towers.
I figured as much. I don't think she knew what she was talking about. She's going to be giving me a call back with the compressed lengths. I'm sorry to say but I expected more from Savvy when asking what their shock options are for my Jeep. I got the feeling everything was read from the website and each answer was started with "I think". I was hoping for answers and they don't publish their lengths or mounting options so I'm not sure what I need (in addition to many pictures and descriptions not being exactly correct on many of their products). When I asked what shock they recommend for 4" of short arm lift, she asked what shocks I wanted, the 3" 4" or 12"??? :/


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post #4 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 11:17 AM
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Why not do the towers and shocks now?
No need to change that when you go to the midarm


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post #5 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Why not do the towers and shocks now?
No need to change that when you go to the midarm
Technically I have the brackets for front and rear. I'm trying to remember why I was waiting though... I'm waiting on the rears to outboard until I mid-arm so I can get the location and angle correct. I'll probably do the rears with Blaine sometime. For the fronts though is there any reason to wait? Is it possible that there will be too much droop on the short arms with such a long shock and without straps?


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post #6 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 11:30 AM
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Not if you use 11" travel shocks...


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post #7 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 11:36 AM
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Your best bet is going to be to wait and see if Blaine weighs in here.
But...
Your uptravel is going to be limited to where you have to bump stop to keep things from hitting.
Your downtravel is going to be limited by the unloaded spring length.
I don't see why anything very important is going to change when you go from short to mid arms in regards to your shocks?


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post #8 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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@mrblaine , do you mind sharing your opinion here?

I've already budgeted that I'm going to need to buy shocks twice, once for short arm (cheaper shocks) and again for mid arm (the shocks I actually want long term). I'm fine with that even though it's wasteful if it gets me the best shocks for the long term since I can't do all of these mods right now. But if you have any cool ideas I'm game.


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post #9 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 02:17 PM
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Why not just to the Front tower extension now? Just add bump stops as needed. I ran extended shock towers at almost 12" of travel on 3.5" MC coils and short arm. Would have worked the same if went with Mid arm setup (I cut my lower CA mounts so the arm didn't contact mount at full droop).

Buying 12" travel shocks now on a stock setup would be silly. You would have very little uptravel that's for sure. You could always extend them the cheap and easy way now by cutting a hole in the existing mount (enough for the body of shock to go through) and add a simple bracket to the top of stock Tower , welded to existing tower for now to use the longer shock (could modify bracket for Eye to Eye instead of Stem) .Then use the actual brackets to replace the Towers later...
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post #10 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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TJnBC I might go with that idea except eyes. I'll take a look at if my air box or anything else is in the way. Unfortunately I don't have any more time this year for major mods and dealing with fitment. 1) If I do Poly towers in the front do I use the full length or what's the correct length for the best shock? 2) Can I drive 5 miles on back roads without front shocks (I should know this, but I've never done it)?

3) Is this the best front shock if I use the Poly towers in the front? 4) If I meet up with a shock tuner someday (Wayne) is this a good shock for them to tune? http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/Fox-Res...ks-FOX-R12.htm

5) And then these and the stock mounting locations for the rear until I outboard? http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/FOX-Rea...t-FOX-TJR4.htm

Winter is closing in quickly here and everyone is starting to mount their plows so I'm getting nervous about adding one more thing to my to-do list before winter (I haven't even mowed the lawn all summer) but this is sounding worth it if I can get my welder scheduled and the shocks here (it sounds like they might be 3 months out...). 6) If somebody can send me all of the specs for the shocks and welding the towers I'd be able to schedule my welder before the shocks come in.

Edit: or maybe I should have the hack method TJnBC showed welded in with my best estimate now and then next summer weld in the better brackets once I have the shocks?


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post #11 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 03:26 PM
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The method I used...I used for years and new owner still running it. I do admit , it IS a bit of a hack , but a decent hack. I wasn't prepared to replace the Towers with new extended , pre -built towers. So this was an easy fix (took about 4 hours total)

I would purchase the shocks you intend to use when / if you do the Shock towers right. Just be sure to use match the NEW Shock towers height, you intend to use later, with the "hack" brackets you will use in the short term. Then the shocks will fit either setup.

As for running without shocks. For sure go ahead. It may feel a bit sloppy but it is totally fine. Especially for such a short distance.

What shocks are you getting that are 3 months out? That seems like an excessive lead time.

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post #12 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
TJnBC I might go with that idea except eyes. I'll take a look at if my air box or anything else is in the way. Unfortunately I don't have any more time this year for major mods and dealing with fitment. 1) If I do Poly towers in the front do I use the full length or what's the correct length for the best shock? 2) Can I drive 5 miles on back roads without front shocks (I should know this, but I've never done it)?

3) Is this the best front shock if I use the Poly towers in the front? 4) If I meet up with a shock tuner someday (Wayne) is this a good shock for them to tune? http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/Fox-Res...ks-FOX-R12.htm

5) And then these and the stock mounting locations for the rear until I outboard? http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/FOX-Rea...t-FOX-TJR4.htm

Winter is closing in quickly here and everyone is starting to mount their plows so I'm getting nervous about adding one more thing to my to-do list before winter (I haven't even mowed the lawn all summer) but this is sounding worth it if I can get my welder scheduled and the shocks here (it sounds like they might be 3 months out...). 6) If somebody can send me all of the specs for the shocks and welding the towers I'd be able to schedule my welder before the shocks come in.

Edit: or maybe I should have the hack method TJnBC showed welded in with my best estimate now and then next summer weld in the better brackets once I have the shocks?
As far as where to weld in the towers, you determine that based on which shocks you pick, what travel you want, etc. There is no generic answer to where to weld them.

To pick shocks for once ready to do tower work go to Fox's site. Go into their section on racing shocks. Pick the ones you want based on lengths/travel. Savvy or any other Fox vendor will then get them for you, although don't be surprised, like you acknowledged, if there is a delay in getting them. They don't carry a lot of inventory and depending on time of year and what else they have going on (e.g. December/January leading in to KOH) it can take longer than you'd expect.

Trying to weld in the towers before you have the shocks will almost certainly be a disaster. You will be tacking things, mounting shocks, cycling axles, adjusting, repeating, adjusting, repeating, etc. to do it right. The towers can't be done in isolation.
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post #13 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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It's sounding like I've run out of time this summer.


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post #14 of 36 Old 09-26-2017, 10:44 PM
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I used 12" travel fox with remote reservoirs when I was on short arms with poly towers. Nothing changed when I switched to the mid arms.


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post #15 of 36 Old 09-27-2017, 06:14 AM
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I would go with the Fox 985-24-109 11" travel shocks in the front. That is what I used based on Blaine's recommendation.
As stated, you don't want to try to put the towers on before you have the shocks.
You want to adjust your bump stops with no shock or spring in place and then place your towers so the shock is just before bottoming out when your suspension is at full bump.
Remember that full bump includes any compression of your bumps if they are compressible.


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