I'm wanting to tummy tuck and have Savvy's skids. I think the only things left that I need are a SYE and driveshaft. I'm currently at 2" of lift but thinking about going to 4" someday with as much travel as I can squeeze out of it (is there any way that I could get away without a SYE for now?).
While I'm in the case is it a good idea to do the wider chain or planetary gear? Even though my case has never been an issue I'm really tempted to just bite the bullet and spend the money on an Atlas.
My eye is on JB Conversions Super Short is the extra 3" worth another $100 + however much to correct the speedo? I'd like to buy something that will work well with whatever I end up doing.
I'm wanting to tummy tuck and have Savvy's skids. I think the only things left that I need are a SYE and driveshaft. I'm currently at 2" of lift but thinking about going to 4" someday with as much travel as I can squeeze out of it (is there any way that I could get away without a SYE for now?).
While I'm in the case is it a good idea to do the wider chain or planetary gear? Even though my case has never been an issue I'm really tempted to just bite the bullet and spend the money on an Atlas.
My eye is on JB Conversions Super Short is the extra 3" worth another $100 + however much to correct the speedo? I'd like to buy something that will work well with whatever I end up doing.
I'd like to know how this works out for you. I have a 05 LJ with a 2" OME lift and want to do the Savvy skids as well. Did you get upper control arms as well? I have the money to do the skids but not enough to do SYE, Driveshaft, and Upper control arms right now.
I do have all 8 Savvy/Currie control arms (currently only the front lowers actually installed). I find with my 2" OME lift that the stock control arms limit travel.
I would think with the LJ you'd be ok with the standard length SYE.
But, if you're already spending the money, is an extra $100 really that much?
Don't forget that the super short will have an electronic speedo and require a speedo healer of some sort to correct your speedometer.
You may be fine, I have 4" SL and Savvy under armor on a TJ. But, my rear driveshaft CV doesn't last through too many wheeling trips and I really wish I had a SS SYE.
My thoughts too. If the speed healer deal isn't a big hassle (and honestly, I've gotten used to my speedo being 5mph off at 55mph), it seems like that option wouldn't ever leave me wanting more.
TJs should always go with SSYE. LJs a bit less necessary, but still a good idea.
As to your question about getting away without an SYE for now? I doubt it, even with an LJ. If you are at 2" now, with the UA you will be in the 5.5" area. That's too much even for an LJ.
If your case has never been an issue, then why would you even think of an Atlas? Good chunk of money and not a simple install.
I know there is quite a bit of difference with an LJ but keeping your angles low certainly isnt going to hurt anything. I went with a standard sye and swapped it out for a super short a couple years later. I am one of those who wish he would have went with the super short to begin with. The speedohealer by blue monkey was $140 for me, but they have a universal kit that you splice into for $100. I figured the $40 was worth it to not have to pull the harness, solder, and reinstall. Just my opinion though..
I know there is quite a bit of difference with an LJ but keeping your angles low certainly isnt going to hurt anything. I went with a standard sye and swapped it out for a super short a couple years later. I am one of those who wish he would have went with the super short to begin with. The speedohealer by blue monkey was $140 for me, but they have a universal kit that you splice into for $100. I figured the $40 was worth it to not have to pull the harness, solder, and reinstall. Just my opinion though..
Without the healer does it display the same speed as if you were running the factory speedo gear? Meaning since I've never changed my speedo gear and I'm currently off by a bit, after installing the SYE without a healer the speed difference will stay the same? If it's $100 I'd almost rather wait to buy it, I've put up with it this long and it's never bugged me much.
I had the correct speedo gear with the original sye. Once I went to the SS my speedo was off around 11% with the new tone ring that JB uses. I am sure yours will be different.
Biff is right. The speedo gear in the NP231 would change as per what Gearing and axles you have. It is not a speedo HEALER in the 231s it is a replacement speedo gear. Unless you get a SSYE some use a Elec speedo, so a healer would be needed
The jb ss sye will reproduce the stock signal that the factory speedo gears sends. That's why I won't need a speedo healer when I get 35s on my 32rh and 4.56s, but with the 42re you have to make bigger gear jumps for 35s, not just a one to one increase so you would need a healer.
As mentioned above with respect to the 231 there were too many combinations of gearing and tire size to say the SS SYE will match the stock signal that the factory speedo gear sends. Now if you say it reproduces the signal that the 241 OEM electronic speedo produces that is possible. And I haven't looked at a speedo chart in a long time but I could see that being similar to 35s and 4.56.
And the auto is the 42RLE by the way. The 42RE is a different transmission.
While we're discussing the SSYEs, does anyone know which of the "super short" or "extreme short" SYEs is actually the shortest? Or is there even enough of a difference for it to matter? I am eventually going to swap my SYE for a SSYE. I'm not a big fan of Teraflex, but I am considering getting their SS SYE as well as 4:1 low range kit and 2lo kit all at the same time.
Unfortunate that they discontinued the Tera Low. I actually have one sitting on the shelf. Just haven't had the TC out in a while.
As far as the Extreme v. Super Short I don't see how anything could be much shorter than my Super Short is and as mentioned I think JB Conversions has been thoughtful about their design overall. I see no reason to consider the Tera.
The only reason I would have been considering the Tera would be if I got the 4:1 front half and the 2-lo kit. I know it really doesn't matter, but if I was going to do all of that I'd probably go with the same company for everything. But, if there are no Tera LOW kits left to be purchased when I finally have the funds I will not go with the Teraflex SSYE.
Yeah, I really want to do both, and am well aware that the t-case will become a weak point if I ever actually do it. But, you're right to warn about that.
I have had a rubicrawler with an advanced adapter sye for about six years now and have had no problems with drive line angels. It is also real nice to be able to drive in 2 low on slower trails and switch backs which really does a good job of keeping the 42rle trans. temp lower.
If I do the TT and SYE now and measure and buy a new rear DS for it, will that drive shaft work fine if I later switch out to a JK HP44 with the same size yoke (1310)? I'm assuming it'll be a 2" difference or so?
Is the stock front DS going to be fine after the TT?
1310 in the double cardan joint will give you the greatest potential angle before bind (30 degrees is the standard quote for limit, although it is possible to get it a few degrees above that). With the angles we deal with in TJs with lift plus tummy tucks the strength pickup of going to 1330 or 1350 is not worth the reduction in operating angle. As an example, I had my rear driveshaft built with 1350 at the axle, but stayed with 1310s in the double cardan joint. I would have bind given my setup if I had done anything bigger in the double cardan joint.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Jeep Enthusiast Forums
18.5M posts
726.7K members
Since 2000
A forum community dedicated to all jeep owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, engine swaps, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!