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help. locking torx screw?

4K views 41 replies 20 participants last post by  solarpower 
#1 ·
Bought an or fab bolt in roll cage and began installing it. but when I got got to the 2 bolts holding the stock roll bars next to the b pillar there are these almost like locking torx screws. looks like a normal t50 head but it has a pin in the middle. is there a special piece I need to undo these?
 
#10 ·
You put it on there, and turn the security torx bolt out.
When I did cage work on mine, all those torx & security torx in the cage were frozen.
I broke a bunch of torx bits, and was at my wits end when I grabbed a big pipe wrench.
It worked like a charm, and I wish I had started with it.
Especially for the guy that says it'll strip it, nope, it's grabbing the outside of the bolt.
If you can get the bolt to start turning with a pipe wrench, then you still have factory minty fresh torx internal to use to turn it the rest of the way out.

The heads of the security torx on the A-B spreader stick out proud of the tube, there's plenty of room to get a pipe wrench on there, and if it didn't work I wouldn't say anything.
 
#14 ·
Vise grips worked for me. Then replaced with grade 8 hex heads.

I have read where some were able to break the little "titt" out of the center, I tried with a center punch but it just laid over.
 
#20 ·
Very true. I have a good set of Torx bits. Just not for a security Torx. I tried to bust the little pin out of mine also and failed. I refused to buy a specialty bit for only two bolts on my Jeep that would never go back on once removed.

Thankfully, I had a f'n pipe wrench handy. They came right out.
 
#22 ·
I can tell you live in PA (especially after seeing your build thread). That picture reminds me of most tie rod end removals.

This is funny because I don't think you do. :confused:
Yeah...it's hysterical.

EDIT:

I'll just clarify my statement. If you're in a position where a 1/2" drive ratchet is required, and there are no wrenches or pipes available to fit the handle, and the pipe wrench you do have won't fit in the space provided, you simply use the pipe wrench on the end of the ratchet. Is it the most efficient? No. But if there is a bolt or nut frozen solid from 10 years of PA rust, and that's all you have to work with (which, I was assuming the OP was limited on tools, and not being familiar with the location of the bolts in question I said what I did), then you have to make do.

I know what a pipe wrench is. I know how to use one. I know it has countless amounts of ways to be used. What I don't understand is why everyone feels it necessary to hang onto a statement and keep bringing it up in a thread.

Now, moving on...

Clearly the OP figured it out since he hasn't posted back in this thread.
 
#17 ·
A security torx-head bolt is easily turned into a non-security torx-head bolt with nothing more than a small punch (or screwdriver) and hammer. The security pin in the center of the torx-opening is brittle and is easily snapped off making the bolt easily removable with a standard torx socket. This is how I have removed factory rollcage pieces without problem.
 
#18 ·
Depends on the lot number I suspect. I've been able to snap some of them out and others they just bend over and you can't easily get enough back and forth on them to break them out.

Easiest way I've found for those is like others have said, big pair of vise grips or small pipe wrench both of which always work.
 
#23 ·
Another solution (if all these easier solutions fail) is to use an angle grinder and cut a slit through the center, and treat it like a very large flathead screw.
 
#25 ·
mrblaine said:
Flat head screws come in many different drive configurations included but not limited to Allen, Torx, Phillps, and slotted.

Which did you mean?
Sounds like he's talking about a simple blade/flat screwdriver head....so you cut a slot in the bolt head and use a flat blade screwdriver in the cut groove

I don't believe he is referring to a countersunk type screw
 
#26 ·
If I agree to purchase something from you for X amount of dollars, can I assume you will be satisfied if my nomenclature for dollars is clams and I bring you a bucket of them?

Or would you prefer that I stick to more accurate terms?

I have 500 Allen head cap screws in my garage that are 5" long in 1/2-13. The reason they are there is because someone didn't know the difference in how to call out a fastener and assumed that a hex head cap screw was the same as hex drive. They are not the same.
 
#32 ·
Blaine I think we had this discussion years ago when I made the same mistake. I thought you were being nit picky and ridiculous. Having worked at a local aerospace company for a while now I understand and now find myself correcting people about it too. It might seem trivial, but when you're talking about the manufacturing of million dollar aerospace components, it kind of matters.

Also allen head cap screw? I think you mean socket head cap screw. :p
 
#35 ·
Blaine I think we had this discussion years ago when I made the same mistake. I thought you were being nit picky and ridiculous. Having worked at a local aerospace company for a while now I understand and now find myself correcting people about it too. It might seem trivial, but when you're talking about the manufacturing of million dollar aerospace components, it kind of matters.

Also allen head cap screw? I think you mean socket head cap screw. :p
You are correct. They are SHCS and I should know better than to talk on the phone when I'm typing a post. I was looking at a pic of a Torx and Torx Plus drive SHCS and used the Allen drive to differentiate incorrectly.

Aerospace is even more fun because now you get to specify grip length and it has to be correct.
 
#34 ·
Which bolts are giving you problems? The only problem I had was the bar that attaches the two main pieces together, behind the windshield header.
The powder coating did not allow the bar to go far enough on the sleeve. Took it all out and sanded the sleeve end until it fit. No other problems after that.
 
#36 ·
mrblaine said:
You are correct. They are SHCS and I should know better than to talk on the phone when I'm typing a post. I was looking at a pic of a Torx and Torx Plus drive SHCS and used the Allen drive to differentiate incorrectly.

Aerospace is even more fun because now you get to specify grip length and it has to be correct.
The one that threw me for a loop was flat head with Allen drive. Figured it followed the pattern and was socket flat head screw but then quickly realized it couldn't be because it would then have the same abbreviation as slotted flat head screw.
 
#37 ·
SHCS= Socket head cap screw
FHCS= Flat head cap screw
BHCS= Button head cap screw

and FWIW I have thousands of dollars in tools and I'm not talking snap on sockets and wrenches...I'm talking industrial metalworking and assembly, including a entire drawer dedicated to allen wrenches and torx. Lot of em including a handful of the safety torx...not in that size though.

I saw zero reason to re-use the safety torx on the roll-cage so I opted for the Ridgid Aluminum pipe wrench.
 
#40 ·
I bought one of these for $2.99 at my local tool warehouse.
Advance Auto online has them for about the same price, plus shipping.

Works great with a 6-point, 5/16 socket.
That sure would of helped. But, I installed my cage in the evening.
My big f'n pipe wrench saved me $2.99, a days wait until the hardware store opened, and the gas to get me there.

Planning ahead and proper tools is always best. I should looked for one before I tore into it.:)
 
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