Help can't get transfer case skid plate off - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
patphish
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Help can't get transfer case skid plate off

i install a 4" lift today and at the end went to install transfer case lowering kit, when it can time to take that skid plate off 4 of the bolts came out fine 2 the bolt just spins the nut inside the frame is just spinning and there is no way to get to it any suggestions

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post #2 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 06:58 PM
JeeperAbe
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this is what im afraid is going to happen to me...so please help him since its already happened!!! Will really like to know the fix...

1997 Jeep Wrangler SE 2.5l 4 cylinder auto, Stock.
Mods to come: 2" Coil lift, 31 MTs, Bumpers, Lights, Skids
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 07:11 PM
McLovin
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Maybe have to cut an access hole in the frame.
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post #4 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
patphish
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i was thinking of cutting a acess hole in the side of the frame thats all i can think of
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post #5 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 07:53 PM
tjrunner
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Don't cut a hole in your frame. That may create a weak point. I would try using a hacksaw blade to saw it off between the skid and the frame first.

Eric Baker
97 TJ
6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's
Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker
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post #6 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 08:51 PM
McLovin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjrunner
Don't cut a hole in your frame. That may create a weak point. I would try using a hacksaw blade to saw it off between the skid and the frame first.
There are holes all over in a stock frame, how is another 1.5" slot going to make it any worse? Even if he can cut the bolt in two, how is he going to deal with the nut in the frame?
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:06 PM
4x4Dogg
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If you use a hacksaw, take it from me, get a new blade that is THIN ENOUGH to cut the bolt SHAFT not rub against the threads, else it will just dull your hacksaw blade..

1998 TJ on 33s

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post #8 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:09 PM
tjrunner
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That is right in between the axles-the point on the frame that has the most force put on it. Sure, one more 1 1/2" slot? may not hurt anything but it is not helping either!

Once you get the skid off you will see that there are washers tack welded to the frame. Grind these off and you have yourself a small access hole to pull your nuts thru (no pun intended .

This is just one of many ways to do the job! I just don't see cutting the frame in any way helpful unless you are going to make it stronger (ie. stretching the frame). Just my 2 cents!

Eric Baker
97 TJ
6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's
Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker
8.8 rear w/full Detroit
5.13 gears, SYE, etc, etc, etc..........
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post #9 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:13 PM
Trebor
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i would cut a hole in the frame but only big enough to jam a screwdriver in to stop the nut from spinning start smaller and go bigger until you can get it. just my opinion you could also try jamming somthing under the bolt to force the nut to grip from the inside. it's a tuff one without being onsite. best of luck with it. also if your that worried about the hole causeing a weak point you can always weld it closed. yep that's what i would do cut a hole in the side then while you have your welder out weld the nut back on then remove the bolt then weld the hole colsed. done and done.
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:15 PM
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post #11 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:16 PM
tjrunner
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x2 Trebor!

Eric Baker
97 TJ
6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's
Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker
8.8 rear w/full Detroit
5.13 gears, SYE, etc, etc, etc..........
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post #12 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:39 PM
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What does the bolt thread into, a nut or a rivnut?
If it's a rivnut, chances are you won't be able to hold onto it well enough if you make a hole.
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-15-2006, 09:43 PM
tjrunner
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yeah but he might be able to tack it to the inside frame rail.

Eric Baker
97 TJ
6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's
Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker
8.8 rear w/full Detroit
5.13 gears, SYE, etc, etc, etc..........
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post #14 of 21 Old 10-16-2006, 07:29 AM
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besides cutting holes and other things you can also spray a bunch of PB blaster up there. then hit it with a hammer, let it sit and then spray it some more. You may want to try to use an air impact to get it off. one of the bolts on my TRE wouldn't come off because it just kept spinning. I put my air impact on it and it took a while, but it finally came out. I changed my tierod and ends in the parkinglot of my dorm. I got a lot of weird looks. I love OBA

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post #15 of 21 Old 10-16-2006, 08:32 AM
Dogman
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Are you letting the weight of the skid pull down on the bolts? That should help. This is a common problem. If/when you do get them off, you can thread a nut on the bolt, thread the bolt into the frame, and then tighten the nut against the frame and then tighten the bolt. I've heard that helps seat the rivnut.

Good luck...

John 3:17
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