HELP! 4.0L overheated, cracked block, now I need a new motor. - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 09-20-2012, 10:20 AM   #46
blackjeep05
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Yea do that and see what you have. I think you will be fine.

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Unread 09-20-2012, 10:29 AM   #47
tjsean0308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXAS_TJ

The oil looks normal. No milkshake or frothy residue.

No smoke from the tailpipe.

I don't see any signs of coolant in the engine bay. The radiator went bad and was leaking from the bottom. That's what triggered this whole mess.

Water pump, thermostat, and rad cap are only 2 weeks old, so they should be good...but so was the radiator and it went bad, haha.
So how much have you saved with using the autozone garbage? I would replace that radiator with an OEM replacement from an OEM manufacturer. The autozone ones only lasted me a year, less in your case. My oem one lasted 100k. With the cost of coolant you loose any up front savings quick changing it every year. (not saying you shouldn't test the condition of your coolant yearly and change as needed however today's coolants are good for much longer than that typically)

Glad to hear your jeep is running fine. Keep a good eye on the oil and coolant levels in coming weeks. Look for coolant loss that could indicate a small head gasket leak. And milky build up on the oil cap indicating coolant/ water in the lube oil. The head gasket is far and away the first casualty for an overheated 4.0. The block is as far the least likely. I have overheated my 4.0s a few times ( from an autozone water pump once and a radiator a few other times on my XJs) with no ill effects. These are a few examples of many I have had with poor quality from them. I now stay far away from autzones parts they are only for wax and chemicals in my world. The Walmart of auto parts closing down quality aftermarket manufacturers by underselling cheap garbage with a warranty.

And please tell us your not done with the idiots at Firestone. If, and this is a big if let me tell you, they did the block test correctly. You will see secondary symptoms like I mentioned. Maybe not immediately but they will happen. More than likely they screwed it up and are applying aluminum engine logic to your tank of an engine. There are cars that are one and done when it comes to overheating. Jeeps are not on that list.

Do you need an inspection soon? Can you get some miles put on it to prove what's happening? If you need a sticker now I bet a independent shop that knows jeeps a little will give you a sticker and back all this advice up. I recommend you drive it with a sharp eye and see what happens. I bet it's right as rain till the next autozone premature failure. Sorry I have been burned, my friends have been burned and you as well now know the quality of the autozone parts line.

Do keep us informed and best of luck.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 10:48 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXAS_TJ View Post
The oil looks normal. No milkshake or frothy residue.

No smoke from the tailpipe.

I don't see any signs of coolant in the engine bay. The radiator went bad and was leaking from the bottom. That's what triggered this whole mess.

Water pump, thermostat, and rad cap are only 2 weeks old, so they should be good...but so was the radiator and it went bad, haha.
Ok. I missed that there was still a leak in the radiator. Get that fixed, get the coolant topped up and properly burped. Once that's solid, pop your hood before you start the Jeep and check the coolant level, every time. It may take a few hundred miles to notice a small leak in the head gasket (my cracked head was leaking about a cup of fluid every 500 miles before I fixed it).

Keep an eye out for white smoke as well. I don't have a good source on this, but I think the white smoke is from the ethylene glycol not the water in your coolant, so if you're running nearly pure water right now, there might not be noticeable smoke.

If you aren't going to replace the radiator yourself, let the new shop know about Firestone's block check (and that you may have a blown head gasket). Finally, TJJP77 has a good point: if you've got an internal leak (head gasket), it's almost never just the head gasket. If the damage to the head isn't obvious, get a machine shop to check it for flatness and possibly cracks. Just changing the head gasket without fixing the head usually leads to another blown head gasket.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 06:53 PM   #49
TJJP77
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I hate to be blunt, but if your engine failed a block test, then you have combustion gases in the coolant - period. It could be just a head gasket, or it could be worse as I described earlier. If you believe Firestone lied about the results of the block test, then have another qualified shop that you trust re-run the test to verify. Do not fool yourself into thinking that just replacing the radiator is going to be the end of the problem. If combustion gases are getting into the coolant, they are corrosive in that environment and can quickly damage other cooling system components. Add to that the fact that coolant gases can quickly over pressurize the cooling system and cause other seals or components to leak.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:38 PM   #50
blackjeep05
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I would just replace the radiator and go from there you can always replace the engine if its bad but, I really doubt its bad though. It takes alot to destroy a cast iron block. If it was aluminum I would say most likely it could be bad.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:47 PM   #51
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Ok, so tonight I put in the new radiator and a new thermostat (again) just to be safe. With the engine off and cold, I filled the radiator with water (figured I'd do water first before wasting new coolant if another leak started.) I squeezed the upper rad hose to get out air and continued to add water. Once the bubbles stopped and rad was full, i started the jeep with the rad cap off. I let it warm up for a couple minutes then i turned the heat on full blast. Heat was working good and hot, the temp gauge got to 210 and stayed there. I let it run fo about 10 min and it ran fine and never went above 210 degrees. Soooo......?
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:06 PM   #52
Jeepson33s
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So drive it for a while and see what happens. Check your oil and your coolant levels often. Take it back to Firestone and have them run another block test so you can get it certified in your state. Nice job fixing it yourself.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:21 PM   #53
TJJP77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackjeep05 View Post
It takes alot to destroy a cast iron block.
In spite of the "expert's" opinion, I have personally witnessed hundreds of engine teardowns of both gasoline and diesel variety and with cast iron blocks, and it's really not that hard to destroy a block. Just run it without coolant or oil and it only takes a few minutes.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 09:17 PM   #54
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXAS_TJ
Ok, so tonight I put in the new radiator and a new thermostat (again) just to be safe. With the engine off and cold, I filled the radiator with water (figured I'd do water first before wasting new coolant if another leak started.) I squeezed the upper rad hose to get out air and continued to add water. Once the bubbles stopped and rad was full, i started the jeep with the rad cap off. I let it warm up for a couple minutes then i turned the heat on full blast. Heat was working good and hot, the temp gauge got to 210 and stayed there. I let it run fo about 10 min and it ran fine and never went above 210 degrees. Soooo......?
Did you add water to the opened radiator as the engine warmed up? Just thinking that is part of the process along with adding some to the side reservoir tank. Just want to make sure you got the system topped off to help make sure it is correct? Hopefully if I'm wrong in this recommendation someone will correct me. Hope it all works out for you.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 09:29 PM   #55
TEXAS_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
Did you add water to the opened radiator as the engine warmed up? Just thinking that is part of the process along with adding some to the side reservoir tank. Just want to make sure you got the system topped off to help make sure it is correct? Hopefully if I'm wrong in this recommendation someone will correct me. Hope it all works out for you.
Yeah, i added water while the engine was running too.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 09:48 PM   #56
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXAS_TJ

Yeah, i added water while the engine was running too.
Great, kind of guessed that since you mentioned leaving the cap off, but just thought id mention it in case. Good luck.
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Unread 09-21-2012, 12:04 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by TEXAS_TJ View Post
Yeah, i added water while the engine was running too.
Drive it. Heads can warp too.
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Unread 09-21-2012, 05:00 AM   #58
mhopton
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I'd recommend going to a different shop for a "block test" than Firestone. If anything, so you don't have to listen to their garbage again.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 10:08 AM   #59
TEXAS_TJ
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Ok, so we've driven the jeep for almost 1,000 miles with the new radiator. I check the coolant and oil daily and both levels are fine. The coolant has not dropped any and the oil looks normal (no cream color or froth.) Also, no smoke out the exhaust either. So...either Firestone screwed up the test or the leak is so small it's going to take some time to affect the coolant level.
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Unread 10-22-2012, 10:28 AM   #60
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I dont think they were personally trying to screw you.....................just idiots with a badge.
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