HELP! 4.0L overheated, cracked block, now I need a new motor. - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:27 PM   #31
TJJP77
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Never heard of a block test. Sounds like something they made up. Run as fast as you can from them.
A block test is totally legitimate. Read my description above. I have personally used one and performed the test so I can assure you that they exist. See link:

http://www.blockchek.com/index.htm

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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:29 PM   #32
JBTJ
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A block test is totally legitimate. Read my description above. I have personally used one and performed the test so I can assure you that they exist. See link:

http://www.blockchek.com/index.htm
Yes, I saw that right after I posted. Thanks.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:34 PM   #33
blackjeep05
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I would pull the head like mentioned but, would be willing to bet your fine. Firestone are crooks. Our company truck needed just an oil change and they started saying about how they needed to pull the oil pan to look at the engine because the oil was dirty lol. They pulled it and said it needed a new oil pump and crankshaft but, everything else was fine lol. So don't trust them. Take it to a dealer thats actually ASE certified.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:36 PM   #34
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That is if you don't want to tackle it.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:55 PM   #35
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personally I would change your rad and see what happens as well as the rad cap because that holds the system pressure and a bad one can make you change the whole cooling system out for nothing. If your oil and antifreeze looks good there is no way your block is bad. They are full of **** at Firestone. I wouldn't let them work on a Huffy bicycle.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 08:56 PM   #36
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Whats sad is the people who don't know any better get screwed by these first class **** asses.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 09:14 PM   #37
joe108
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As mentioned, I would repair the radiator and see what happens. If the block is cracked or what ever, you should be able to get a better deal if you shop around, get a second opinion.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 09:28 PM   #38
TEXAS_TJ
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Ok, so I picked up the jeep tonight. I put 1.5 gallons of water in the radiator then hit the road home (4-5) miles. The jeep ran fine and just barely went above 210 degrees by a tiny bit. I checked the oil, and it looks normal, no milkshake or coffee with cream color. Also, no smoke from the exhaust. So, next step I'll replace the radiator and thermostat. U think my rad cap and water pump afe OK? They're only 2 weeks old.

Last edited by TEXAS_TJ; 09-20-2012 at 06:14 AM..
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Unread 09-20-2012, 01:16 AM   #39
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U think my rad cap and water pump afe OK? They're only 2 weeks old.
Yep, they should be fine.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:04 AM   #40
TEXAS_TJ
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I'm with 98tjsport. The 4.0 is super strong block. It's not a diesel block, but it's still way overbuilt. Firestone is trying to fleece you ($5800 with no upgrades sounds like robbery to me).

What does your oil look like? Does it look like dark to black cooking oil or a milkshake? Pull your oil fill cap on the top of the engine and run your finger around the inside. Any frothy residue? (These symptoms would mean the coolant was leaking into the oil.)

Are you getting white smoke out of your tailpipe? You should see something coming out of your tailpipe if the block is cracked and the coolant is leaking into a cylinder.

Is there any coolant in the engine bay? It should be an orange liquid (green if someone put the wrong, older stuff in), and it probably dries to a white powder or otherwise looks like a white hard-water stain when dry. Any of that in the engine bay? If there is, can you trace where it's leaking from?

Have you checked your radiator cap? When you pull it off, there's a rubber gasket in the cap that should be smooth and clean. If the rubber is cracked at all, toss it and get a new one. It should be an 18psi cap, and they're cheap (Summit has them for $5).

Also, all of these symptoms can be caused by other things failing, like the head gasket, which everyone keeps bringing up for a reason. You've got a 2004, so you should have an 0331/TUPY head, which is unlikely to crack (but would likely go before the engine).

Again, take it to someone else. Firestone's estimate is bad, and I would be surprised if they didn't misdiagnose your problem. The block is the last thing to check. At 80,000 miles, your 4.0 is just getting broken in.
The oil looks normal. No milkshake or frothy residue.

No smoke from the tailpipe.

I don't see any signs of coolant in the engine bay. The radiator went bad and was leaking from the bottom. That's what triggered this whole mess.

Water pump, thermostat, and rad cap are only 2 weeks old, so they should be good...but so was the radiator and it went bad, haha.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:31 AM   #41
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A block test is totally legitimate. Read my description above. I have personally used one and performed the test so I can assure you that they exist. See link:

http://www.blockchek.com/index.htm
Would the results of the block test be affected by a leaking radiator? By the time Firestone performed the test, I had already ran 4+ gallons of water in the radiator, so there was probably no chemical coolant still present in the system, plus whether Firestone added water or coolant for the test, it would have been leaking during the test.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:27 AM   #42
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Would the results of the block test be affected by a leaking radiator? By the time Firestone performed the test, I had already ran 4+ gallons of water in the radiator, so there was probably no chemical coolant still present in the system, plus whether Firestone added water or coolant for the test, it would have been leaking during the test.
A Block Test's Results will be no good if coolant is mixed with the Block Test Fluid,When doing the test the coolant level should be a little low so only vapors are pulled into the Block tester as the whole object of the Block Test is to determine if Combustion Gasses are present in the Cooling System,The Block Test Fluid is normally Blue in color & if combustion gasses are present it will usualy turn to a Greenish Yellow Color,But if liquid coolant enters the Block Tester Results are Garbage.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 10:39 AM   #43
Robert J. yates
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Nothing really to add other than the fact that if you are not paying attention, it is pretty easy to crack the radiator when installing it by not getting it aligned correctly on the lower pins. That will leave it cockeyed and when you tighten it down, the core will crack wide open.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 10:45 AM   #44
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Well change the radiator if you haven't already and go ahead and put a new fan clutch on it because its recomended to with the spin on style that sits on the water pump anyways. Then you will have a whole new cooling system and should be good for at least another 80,000 or more. I'm willing to beat your block is fine. Hell the head would have cracked well before the block anyhow. Firestone are idoits.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 10:52 AM   #45
TEXAS_TJ
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Well change the radiator if you haven't already and go ahead and put a new fan clutch on it because its recomended to with the spin on style that sits on the water pump anyways. Then you will have a whole new cooling system and should be good for at least another 80,000 or more. I'm willing to beat your block is fine. Hell the head would have cracked well before the block anyhow. Firestone are idoits.
Yeah, I'm gonna pull the cracked radiator tonight. I already replaced the fan clutch along with everything else about 2 weeks ago. (radiator, rad cap, waterpump, thermostate, fan clutch.)
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block , block test , engine , motor , stroker

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