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Unread 12-09-2010, 12:30 PM   #1
animaltj
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hd steering linkage?

Why cant I take grade 8 5/8 hardware , drill out my knuckle 5/8, DOM tubing, bung inserts and 3/4 heim joints build my own steering linkage for my TJ ( Rubi D-44)?
I dont care about street legal! this is no mall crawler its a trailer queen.

All of aftermarket is so exspensive. Any thought on why this will not work is appreciated? thanks.

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Unread 12-09-2010, 12:32 PM   #2
NotURMailman
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You could. Are you planning a crossover system, or would ou be welding tabs to the draglink for the tie rod? If you do a cross over you'll have to rework your track bar to avoid severe bump steer.
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Unread 12-09-2010, 01:55 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by animaltj View Post
Why cant I take grade 8 5/8 hardware , drill out my knuckle 5/8, DOM tubing, bung inserts and 3/4 heim joints build my own steering linkage for my TJ ( Rubi D-44)?
I dont care about street legal! this is no mall crawler its a trailer queen.

All of aftermarket is so exspensive. Any thought on why this will not work is appreciated? thanks.
You will wonder how they do it so cheap when you get done if you use the appropriate quality parts.

Ends are 50 bucks each for anything worth throwing under there. You will need 6 of them because you will need to re-do the trackbar at the same time.

Weld in bungs are 15 each.
Jam nuts and hardware are another 30 bucks and you still need tubing. 3 foot for a draglink and 9 feet for the tie rod and trackbar. That's 11 feet at about 10 bucks a foot minimum.

So far you're up over 500 bucks and you haven't even started cutting and welding yet.
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Unread 12-09-2010, 04:02 PM   #4
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It's expensive as mrblain said. Not to mention the R&D that has gone into making sure the geometry is correct. Not to mention if you make a mistake and have to start over on something. I'm sure it would be a great learning experience but it'll cost ya.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 07:54 AM   #5
animaltj
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Thanks everyone for input. Mr. Blaine here is where Im at now:

bungs-3/4-6.25x 4=25.00 free shippping
misalingment spacers reducing 3/4 to 5/8- 4x 8.00= 32.00 free shippping
chrome moly heim joints rated 26,061 lbs- 4x9.00= 36.00 free shippping
dom 1.25 x .120 wall- 5.53 a ft- 11x 5.53= 60.83 pick up no shipping

grand total =153.83 my labor fabing and such free

So what do I have to do with my track bar?

Its adjustable and has been lowered from stock to compensate for alignment with drag link and dropped pitman arm. 6 inchs of suspension lift. So I currently have no bump steer.
Thanks again for all replies!
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Unread 12-10-2010, 08:10 AM   #6
animaltj
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I forgot to add crossover is the way I am going with 5/8 18-8 stainless bolts.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 02:13 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by animaltj View Post
I forgot to add crossover is the way I am going with 5/8 18-8 stainless bolts.
If you plan on drilling the knuckles and clamping a rod end ball direct to the knuckle, it would be in your best interest not to. The iron in the knuckle is too soft and will let the small surface area of the edge of the ball sink into the iron as you use the steering. Then the bolt will loosen up and the hole will wallow out and if you don't catch it in time, it will ruin the knuckle.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 02:25 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by animaltj View Post
Thanks everyone for input. Mr. Blaine here is where Im at now:

bungs-3/4-6.25x 4=25.00 free shippping
misalingment spacers reducing 3/4 to 5/8- 4x 8.00= 32.00 free shippping
chrome moly heim joints rated 26,061 lbs- 4x9.00= 36.00 free shippping
dom 1.25 x .120 wall- 5.53 a ft- 11x 5.53= 60.83 pick up no shipping

grand total =153.83 my labor fabing and such free
You missed the 10.00 bucks a foot on the tube because you've haven't yet realized that .120 isn't thick enough for steering. That means you will have to sleeve it with at least 1" x .188 wall in Dom or .120 in chrome moly. That doubles the price.

3/4-16 isn't typically robust enough for a tie rod. I only use 7/8-14 rod ends with 3/4" balls because the larger shanks increase the bearing surface area around the ball and make them last much longer, or long enough that we've never worn them out. On the other hand, we can take out the smaller ones in a couple of trips.

Those prices look like Midwest Control stuff. Were I you, I'd order one and check the fit and quality before I invested in the whole mess.

As far as 9 bucks for a 3/4" rod end? Try one before you buy the rest because I'll bet a fair bit they have the tolerances of a tractor link.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 02:26 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
If you plan on drilling the knuckles and clamping a rod end ball direct to the knuckle, it would be in your best interest not to. The iron in the knuckle is too soft and will let the small surface area of the edge of the ball sink into the iron as you use the steering. Then the bolt will loosen up and the hole will wallow out and if you don't catch it in time, it will ruin the knuckle.
Would some grade 8 washers under the rod ends fix that?
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