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Unread 01-10-2010, 08:28 AM   #1
Silverton34
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2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: East Iowa
Posts: 155
Got The Jeep, Now Comes The Build

Well I made a deal on an '05 Wrangler Rubicon and will get it home Tuesday. Hopefully some of you can help me plan the build.

I was thinking of using the 3.5 inch RE lift that includes springs, shocks, rear track bar relocation bracket, new front track bar and sway bar disconnects. I don't want to replace any of the arms. Any opinions of a better brand kit or is the RE quite good? Was actually thinking about the OME shocks as a friend has them and the ride is quite good. Will this lift clear 315-75/16 Goodyear MTR Kevlars that are 34.8" tall and 12.3 inches wide? I really do not want to do a body lift of any kind.

I have a set of five 315-70/17 35 inch Goodyear Kevlar tires that were on my Hummer H3 but the wheels were 17" and I need 16" as I very strongly want to retain the Moab wheels. Unfortunately the tires I have only have 800 road miles on them and I will likely take a beating on the value. Anybody want them? I am planning to use 315-75/16 Kevlars on the Jeep.

I guess my big question is will the 3.5" RE spring lift clear the 35" Kevlars and is the RE lift of a good quality?

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Unread 01-10-2010, 08:31 AM   #2
never monday
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: In my own world
Posts: 6,792
get some cheap 17" steelies for now

and


Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above
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Unread 01-10-2010, 08:44 AM   #3
RubiconRazorbac
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 3,463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverton34 View Post
Well I made a deal on an '05 Wrangler Rubicon and will get it home Tuesday. Hopefully some of you can help me plan the build.

I was thinking of using the 3.5 inch RE lift that includes springs, shocks, rear track bar relocation bracket, new front track bar and sway bar disconnects. I don't want to replace any of the arms. Any opinions of a better brand kit or is the RE quite good? Was actually thinking about the OME shocks as a friend has them and the ride is quite good. Will this lift clear 315-75/16 Goodyear MTR Kevlars that are 34.8" tall and 12.3 inches wide? I really do not want to do a body lift of any kind.

I have a set of five 315-70/17 35 inch Goodyear Kevlar tires that were on my Hummer H3 but the wheels were 17" and I need 16" as I very strongly want to retain the Moab wheels. Unfortunately the tires I have only have 800 road miles on them and I will likely take a beating on the value. Anybody want them? I am planning to use 315-75/16 Kevlars on the Jeep.

I guess my big question is will the 3.5" RE spring lift clear the 35" Kevlars and is the RE lift of a good quality?
If you're putting 315mm tires on the stock Moabs, you're going to want some wheel spacers.

People with RE lifts claim you'll actually yield more than 3.5". That's good in your case as you'll need the clearance if you're dead set against a small body lift. You still may rub and will definitely need to properly bump-stop.

RE has had a problem with their bushings. Some people say due to this RE is the new satan. Others love it and wouldn't have anything else. Read up on the issue so at least you're an informed consumer.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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Unread 01-10-2010, 09:26 AM   #4
Silverton34
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2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: East Iowa
Posts: 155
I guess the last lift kit I used on my old '05 Rubicon was the Full Traction 3" Economy lift and the hydro shocks they had available. It includes springs, stops, front track bar, rear track bar relocation bracket, rear sway bar links and front quick disconnect links. What do you guys think of the Full Traction 3" kit with the 35 inch tires? I will use 1.25 inch spacers on the Moab wheels. I don't want to beat the thing but will have it in Colorado and Moab running the popular trails. Will the tire rubbing be terrible?
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Unread 01-10-2010, 09:36 AM   #5
cmoore
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
Posts: 981
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverton34 View Post
I don't want to beat the thing but will have it in Colorado and Moab running the popular trails. Will the tire rubbing be terrible?
Tire rub can get you in trouble in some situations (make sure you set your bumpstops properly). A few years ago when I was running 35s, my bumps werent setup as well as I thought (running 4" springs and no BL). I got offline and flexed out so hard that the stuffed tire kept me from being able to turn my tires and drive out. It made an easy obstacle (The Crack at Funny Rocks in Naches) a bit of a bear. YouTube - Naches Washington 2006

Adding a slight bl with your susp lift helps keep COG lower, improves tire clearance, and allows for an easier tummy tuck.
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98 XJ:4.0, AW4, HP30/8.25 4.56 Spartan/LSD, alloy shafts & joints, HD steer, SYE/CV, skids, RADesigns gated shifter, RE mix n match lift, 35"mt/rs, THOR guards F&R, weld-in custom rockers & stiffeners, custom front bumper, orfab rear bumper, THOR cowl induction, on board air, on board welder, etc
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