Goodbye Long Arms... hello short arms - Page 12 - JeepForum.com

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post #166 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 10:16 PM
DaleII
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Thanks Tim, I spent about an hour out there this evening and solved the frame side trackbar issue in a fairly simple and clever fashion. I'll get a pic up tomorrow so the folks have something to snivel about.

The frame end was an RE style rod end with the single shear bolt up through the mount. That also kept it far enough back that the diff cover slammed into it before the Currie bumpstops touched. Afterwards, I took the lower 1" spacer Currie supplies out from under the urethane and was able to make the upper and lower contact each other quite nicely and turn the bolt horizontal in a double shear mount.
Sure? Picture please! I'm sure it's a pretty nifty design.


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post #167 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 09:29 PM
mrblaine
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Easy solution to relocation of the trackbar frame side end. The short bolt is a flat head cap screw which is stronger than grade 8 and torqued to about 175 ft lbs for the 5/8" coarse thread.



This shows the trimming we need to do on the axle side trackbar mount. We removed the original tabs, drilled them out to 3/4" and dropped them down.



A pair of pics that clearly show that it's geometrically impossible to eliminate bumpsteer with a shorter trackbar. Sorta full stuff-



Sorta full droop.


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post #168 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 09:50 PM
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I know the correct fix would be to lengthen the track bar and change the axle mount, but would it help any to flatten the pitman arm a bit?
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post #169 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryN View Post
I know the correct fix would be to lengthen the track bar and change the axle mount, but would it help any to flatten the pitman arm a bit?
That's our only solution that's reasonably effective at this point. We will trim the axle side until it clears the frame, position that end of the trackbar and then flatten the pitman until they are parallel at ride height.

They won't be in the same plane, but at this point, some compromises are needed or we'll wind up ripping off the whole mess and starting over, which none of us are inclined to do.

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post #170 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 10:36 PM
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quick question. why didn't you weld that 90deg tab to the factory TB mount. why bolt-on instead?
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post #171 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 11:17 PM
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quick question. why didn't you weld that 90deg tab to the factory TB mount. why bolt-on instead?
For the same reason that I bolt a lot of things to other things that folks think should be welded, because I understand the forces.

Why do you think it should be welded?

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post #172 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 11:37 PM
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well I don't really think anything about it. I'm just trying to understand why people build things the way they do.

but it seems that a welded bracket would be stronger in the long run. it seems like all the forces applied to the track-bar could wallow the bolt-hole out.

plus it can't be easy to torque a flatheadded cap screw to 175ft lbs
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post #173 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 11:46 PM
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well I don't really think anything about it. I'm just trying to understand why people build things the way they do.
Because I can.

Quote:

but it seems that a welded bracket would be stronger in the long run. it seems like all the forces applied to the track-bar could wallow the bolt-hole out.
The standard trackbar bolt is slightly larger than 3/8" and the only reason they ever wallow out the hole is folks don't do their maintenance and keep them torqued correctly. It is really that simple.

That bolt that's in there now has about 20,000 lbs of clamp load holding that tab in place. It is really going to move? Not to mention that the only way it can even see rotational forces trying to spin it around is if the other bolt loosens or the long side of the bracket rips off. The clamp load on the 3/4" bolt through the rod end is roughly 30,000 lbs when we get it torqued up to 200 ft lbs.

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plus it can't be easy to torque a flatheadded cap screw to 175ft lbs
Easier than you think.

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post #174 of 731 Old 08-01-2010, 11:58 PM
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well when you put it that way...

It makes sense now that someone spelled it out to me.

Thanks
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post #175 of 731 Old 08-02-2010, 03:26 AM
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in on this thread so I can learn how to tear off all my suspension and rebuild it with large sums of cash and sweat.
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post #176 of 731 Old 08-02-2010, 11:06 AM
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i like your jack stands and i know what i need to do now....

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post #177 of 731 Old 08-02-2010, 11:13 AM
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in on this thread so I can learn how to modify my suspension and rebuild it with large amounts of skill and sweat.
Fixed it for you.
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post #178 of 731 Old 08-02-2010, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
Robert J. yates
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in on this thread so I can learn how to tear off all my suspension and rebuild it with large sums of cash and sweat.
Hey... great addition of knowledge to my thread. Thanx!
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post #179 of 731 Old 08-02-2010, 11:25 AM
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Robert,

It is coming quite nicely. You're really going to like how it performs! The arm length is exactly where I want mine. Can't wait to see it on the trails!

Gerald

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post #180 of 731 Old 08-02-2010, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
Robert J. yates
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Thanx Gerald.... I think the arm length will work out great and getting better clearance is going to help alot too. I want to take it out this fall to JV for sure.
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control arms , currie , custom , fabrication , long arms , mod , modification , savvy , short arms , suspension , tj , wrangler

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