Goodbye Long Arms... hello short arms - Page 10 - JeepForum.com

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post #136 of 731 Old 07-30-2010, 08:37 PM
jermeyg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Those are just some scrap DOM 1.5" .120 wall tubing we are using for mock-up with some tube inserts we bought from PolyPerformance.

After it's dialed in, we'll cut the aluminum TBT arms down and get them threaded for the final arms in the front.
Ah that's a good idea, I was wondering why it was just tack welded in place. Looking forward to the continued build.

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post #137 of 731 Old 07-30-2010, 09:12 PM
wushaw
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A 3 link mid arm....cool
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post #138 of 731 Old 07-30-2010, 09:27 PM
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Blaine,

Are you going to align the TB and DL? On the truss are you tying it in to the front diff cover or does it matter?

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post #139 of 731 Old 07-30-2010, 09:50 PM
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very nice work..so,this 3 link is less likely (or wont) unload on steep climbs like a radius arm setup..
my radius arm build this weekend is kinda on hold now,,thanks a lot

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post #140 of 731 Old 07-30-2010, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy View Post
Blaine,

Are you going to align the TB and DL? On the truss are you tying it in to the front diff cover or does it matter?
The initial plan was 3 phases broken down as follows. Tune up the front suspension, tune up the rear and then see how it handles and make the decision to monkey with the steering.

After viewing the front and giving it a bit of evaluation, I suspected that after we got the bind out of the front, the steering's inherent issues would show up at which point we would re-do a few things and get it proper.

Upon cycling the front axle this morning, we discovered that later is now sooner and we'll need to lower the trackbar mount to clear the frame on the passenger side and then move it forward to clear the diff on the driver's side.

The truss will be left as is with a predetermined solution to be implemented later if it decides to move at all.

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post #141 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
Robert J. yates
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The 3 link is just plain awesome. We have 8.5" of vertical separation between the upper and lower but all that non binding goodness took its toll on the TXT trackbar and in order to get full compression and uptravel, something will have to give and it won't be the diff or the frame. We could ignore it and bumpstop it so as to not to have to deal with it but I want it done right. We decided this morning after cycling the front end that we will take the trackbar at the frame mount, rotate it on its side and move it forward. We will then take the Johnny Joint I rigged into the axle side, remove it, drop the mount down and use a heim joint so as to provide clearance... you can see what we are dealing with in the second pic. This will also align the draglink to the trackbar. Most likely I will have some bumpsteer with the short trackbar but that will have to do for now.

Now... with respect to whoever complained about this not being a Savvy build... well you just weren't paying attention. I never said it would be. I am relying on Blaine's knowledge and skill in rectifying a number of issues I had with the TXT suspension while adding Savvy equipment where I can. The first thing to go was the Genrite 24 gallon tank with a stock tank with a new Savvy skid along with a 1.25" body lift taking its place. I gained a ton of clearance here and we are now set up for getting Savvy Underarmor into place once we get the suspension figured out.

As for the rest of the build.... well, we will progress as funds allow. The last pic clearly shows what I am dealing with... you can see that stupid long arm belly skid still holding up the rear end with the mocked up 3 link in place.

This work does not pop out of thin air...there is both skill and budget involved here. I had alot of crap that needed to be corrected and I trust Blaine implicitly in helping me get it done.
Attached Thumbnails
junk 178.jpg   junk 179.jpg   junk 180.jpg   junk 182.jpg   junk 183.jpg  

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post #142 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post

How much vertical separation is on the frame side mounts? any more pictures from different angles?
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post #143 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by snowrydr01 View Post
How much vertical separation is on the frame side mounts? any more pictures from different angles?
They are nearly parallel. There is 1.5 of caster change from full stuff to full droop.


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post #144 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 07:21 AM
snowrydr01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
They are nearly parallel. There is 1.5 of caster change from full stuff to full droop.
mg]
My bad, i meant more pictures of the upper control arm mount. With it that high im definitely interested of how you fit it and got your clean welds in around the brake lines
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post #145 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 08:01 AM
Bennettj13
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You aren't trusting Blaines trigger welds are you? Brave man.

Looks good bud. It will be interesting to see it all come together.

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post #146 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Bennettj13 View Post
You aren't trusting Blaines trigger welds are you? Brave man.
If I do need to trigger weld something, you can rest assured that it will work just fine. But, for the sake of entertaining the non weldors, which one were you referring to? Based on the pics posted so far, you wouldn't know a trigger weld if it ran over you.

Quote:
Looks good bud. It will be interesting to see it all come together.
What else does it need?

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post #147 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 08:30 AM
lumpster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
If I do need to trigger weld something, you can rest assured that it will work just fine. But, for the sake of entertaining the non weldors, which one were you referring to? Based on the pics posted so far, you wouldn't know a trigger weld if it ran over you.



What else does it need?
I think he was refering to you doing it in stages. So you tell us what else it needs! sounds like the rear end, and steering/front track bar to me.

you have to have the arms shortened and retapped, from the pics it looks like you need to finish weld and paint everything. Install coils, shocks, sway bar, front driveshaft and the Under Armor.

Looks great though, excellent work btw.
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post #148 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Bennettj13 View Post
You aren't trusting Blaines trigger welds are you? Brave man.

Looks good bud. It will be interesting to see it all come together.

Certainly not. Im merely requesting a little better picture of the upper CA frameside mount. That is a tricky area as far as space, brake line routing. and weld angles go as apposed to a lower CA mount.

Nothing on Blaine, just more about my own curiosity
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post #149 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
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What else does it need?
looks like its getting to the easy part! welding it. sure,maybe a lil cramped but whats been done is the hard part to most of us..thanks for sharing this with us normal guys

if i get a straight answer i may try this for the fun of it since i have all the joints and abitlity to make the rest..i need my brain work to stay afloat..not that it would be a fast thing for me.

blaine ,would you feel as safe on the hwy with this as with a radius set up..or maybe safer?

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post #150 of 731 Old 07-31-2010, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
If I do need to trigger weld something, you can rest assured that it will work just fine. But, for the sake of entertaining the non weldors, which one were you referring to? Based on the pics posted so far, you wouldn't know a trigger weld if it ran over you.



What else does it need?
You know I'm just busting balls.

And I wasn't saying it needed anything. I was saying I want to see it all done.

::SELLING HALF OF MY JEEP::

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f33/?uid=152304

Rear Currie 4" coils - 190 shipped. (They've been sitting in the back of my Jeep for mock up but won't work out for me.)

Hornblasters Shocker S4 horn set with some extras $210 shipped. (It is not OBA, just an accessory for OBA)

"LCOG" isn't cheap and it certainly isn't easy. If you think so, you are doing it wrong. If you aren't willing to put in the effort, don't label your build "LCOG". You are just a cheap ******bag.

IndyORV- Dick and fart jokes, titties, throttle, flops, beer, tater balls, and good times.
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control arms , currie , custom , fabrication , long arms , mod , modification , savvy , short arms , suspension , tj , wrangler

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