post #1 of Old 03-11-2013, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
AngryTJ
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Genright EXT stretch Tank Install Write-up

Genright EXT tank install

Well I finally got around to installing my genright tank to allow for a 5 in rear stretch. I was able to handle everything on my own. Hopefully this write-up can help out anyone looking to do this in the future.

First things first remove the negative battery terminal

next remove the gas cap to relieve pressure in the lines

unscrew the bolts and remove the gas bezel



then locate the axle vent tube zip tied to the filler hose and cut the zip tie


unclip the following 3 hoses. 1 goes to the fuel pump assembly, 1 goes to the hose that wraps around to the evap and the last is an electrical wire then connects to the fuel pump assembly.

NOTE: for the electrical connector you will likely need to lower the tank some before being able to get your hand in there to unclip it and pull it off.
Before doing so unbolt the front 2 (Savvy GTS) or 3 (stock GTS) bolts.

In my case sawzaw them off

This is the electrical connector that has a slide piece at the top before you can push the top of it and pull it off.

Remove the 4 bolts behind the tank near the bumper, disconnect the EVAP line on the rear passenger side and lower the tank slowly. While lowering check to make sure no other hoses are being held up and also make sure to be careful of the filler hose.


The next pic shows a 2005 gas tank and how all the lines run

New genright tank with simplified lines


remove filler hose from the stock tank and place on the new tank

use the supplied line and do the following


Now its time to take the fuel pump assembly out of the stock tank

Spin the outer metal ring until it comes off and the fuel pump assembly is free (I used a hammer and flathead to get the ring to spin) The small tab you see on the top of the fuel pump assembly will have to be trimmed off. More about that later but this picture was the only one I had showing it.

then remove the fuel pump assembly VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOW!! you can see in the next pic there is a wire and float that hangs to the side. Place it aside on a clean rag

Next take the oring from the stock tank, apply some grease, and put on the new tank opening which is grooved and will fit directly in.

There will be a small tab at the top of the fuel assembly. Carefully cut the tab off so the assembly will sit in the new tank flush. Install the fuel assembly lining up the arrow on the assembly to the line or arrow on the genright tank


Use the supplied alum ring and and hand tighten making sure the arrow stays in line.




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post #2 of Old 03-11-2013, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
AngryTJ
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Next take the Evap line off the stock tank and attach to the new. I used some zip ties to attach it to the new tanks hoses on top to keep it in place. Dont pinch the line making them too tight though.


Next start to jack up the tank into position making sure to be careful with the filler hose.

Once you jack the tank up secure in the rear 4 bolts

Be careful not to pinch any lines while jacking the tank up. Once in place the skid has 2 ears on the sides that you have to mark a spot on the frame with a marker. Drop the tank again and drill this spot out on the frame all the way through.

inside view

Instructions say to drill a 3/8 hole through the entire frame and then only drill the inner hole to 5/8. The only reason one side has to be drilled larger is to fit the crush sleeve that prevents the frame from well crushing inward while tightening the bolts. I decided there was no reason why I couldn't drill the outside part of the frame to 5/8 since it would be easier then climbing under the jeep and drilling again.
Helpful tips for this step: have good drill bits ( I broke at least 4), have a 5/8 drill bit which I didnt so it took me forever to use a 1/2" bit and make it large enough and start with small pilot holes and slowly increase in size.

Reconnect fuel and electrical line to fuel pump assembly

Having someone to help avoids this

FINISHED


Hope this helps...feel free to ask questions if you need help

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post #3 of Old 03-11-2013, 08:58 AM
The_Eng
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Thanks for the write up. I'm planning on doing Genright's 5" stretch when I get my TJ and this was great to see what all goes into the new tank.
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post #4 of Old 03-11-2013, 09:08 AM
Ben
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Nice write up.
What's your impression on ground clearance VS stock?
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post #5 of Old 03-11-2013, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
AngryTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Eng
Thanks for the write up. I'm planning on doing Genright's 5" stretch when I get my TJ and this was great to see what all goes into the new tank.
No problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce
Nice write up.
What's your impression on ground clearance VS stock?
Well I had a savvy Gts but this tank definitely provides more clearance over stock. Maybe 2"?

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post #6 of Old 05-07-2013, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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bump...hope this helps

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post #7 of Old 05-07-2013, 01:10 PM
BillGOTD
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Did you have to redo your shock towers to accommodate moving the axle back 5"?
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post #8 of Old 05-07-2013, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGOTD
Did you have to redo your shock towers to accommodate moving the axle back 5"?
Yeah I had to patch the frame in that location and reoutboard the shocks further back.

Feel free to check out my build thread in the last 15-20 pages you will see the entire job from start to finish

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post #9 of Old 05-07-2013, 03:18 PM
BillGOTD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
Yeah I had to patch the frame in that location and reoutboard the shocks further back.

Feel free to check out my build thread in the last 15-20 pages you will see the entire job from start to finish
Will do, I wanted to do the Genright 5" as well, Just wish I had known that before I had the out boarding and spring perch done. Thinking about Genrights 4 link system as well...Nice write up!
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post #10 of Old 05-15-2013, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
AngryTJ
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Finally got my jeep back on the road and I did notice the gas light was on and it wasnt registering how much gas I had. The float inside the fuel pump must have been stuck but after a bit of driving it snapped back to normal and the gauge is working again.

Just wanted to provide that feedback incase anyone has the same issue in the future

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post #11 of Old 05-22-2013, 08:39 PM
gst95dsm
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Hey who did you order the tank through? And how long did it take to get?.....
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post #12 of Old 05-22-2013, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
AngryTJ
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straight from genright when they had a free shipping sale...got it in 10 days or so

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post #13 of Old 07-19-2013, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Going on 4 months now and no issues with the tank or the evap consolidation!

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post #14 of Old 02-08-2014, 06:26 AM
TURBevO8
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Great write up. I'll have this up on the lap top today while doing my comp tank. I've already removed my charcoal canister a few months back so I'm going to have to figure out how I want to mount the sensor under the tub and route the evap lines. Other than that should be the same as your install. Hopefully I won't have to lengthen any wires but have the stuff to do so if need be.

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post #15 of Old 02-08-2014, 09:30 AM
jsawduste
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I installed one of these tanks in my YJ last fall.

Hopefully you welded the anti crush bushing to the frame since you drilled a 5/8 hole through both sides. If not you lost a significant amount of frame strength.

I have a 1 inch BL and found that the front mounting holes (where you drilled the frame) on the GR tank mount to be generic in location. Redrilled the mount then cut off the ears and was able to move the tank up another 1.5 or so.

Used this for a fuel/water filter. Especially considering todays ethanol laced fuels. Stu has a write up on mounting.
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