I'm looking to regear to 4.88s and was wondering if I will have to change the carrier on my dana 30 and 35. Right now I have 3.07s from the factory. Thanks, also its a 2001 Tj sahara 4.0 with an auto and 33inch tires as of now, planning on 35s soon.
Yeah, do not regear the D35 for 35" tires. It's a waste of time and money that you could put toward nearly anything else. S35, D44, 8.8, something custom, or whatever else.
I plan on buying a super 35 kit to make it 30 spline with chromoly shafts. Also putting in an ARB air locker. Anything else I could do to upgrade a d35?
Agreed, that's a good plan for 35's. You're re-gearing anyway, so the S35 install shouldn't cost much more in labor. The only other "major" thing you could do that might be helpful is to truss it. Some people have said they think the D35 housing is prone to bending. I never had that happen, but since I was doing a bunch of other stuff at the same time (including S35 with Eaton E-Locker) and the truss wasn't terribly expensive, I said screw it and went with it. I'm not convinced it's truly necessary--depending on how heavy your rig is, what you wheel in, and how you wheel it--but if you've got the money it's not a bad choice.
The Dana 35 is really no more prone to bending or flexing than the TJ's Dana 44 is. They even use the exact same axle tubes, they are cut from the same tube stock.
The c-clips, at least in the S35, are not a weak point. They are an inconvenience if you need to pull the axle shafts or mess with bearings because you have to pull the diff cover to do so every time. Otherwise there's no problem. Most run 35's on the S35 and have no issue. I did, and I wasn't gentle with it, and it never let me down.
Jerry, unless somethings changed, the c-clip eliminator setup is an optional add-on. I think I have a pair of cut 30 spline shafts around here for it. I went back to c-clips at least partly for the convenience of disc brakes from a Grand Cherokee, because I was bored, and because I ****ing hate dealing with drums anymore. I never had leaking axle seals or bearings problems or whatever else that would require me to repeatedly pull the shafts, so there was essentially very little downside.
You're probably right on the c-clip eliminator kit being optional now. Superior Axle included them the last time I looked so that stuck in my mind. With the stronger Super 35 shafts the c-clips aren't a big deal since the stronger shafts aren't likely to break at all.
For my kit from Superior from about 6 years ago was entirely optional and cost extra. I honestly don't know what the current situation is. It could be mandatory or not offered at all or something in between as far as I know
I wasn't aware that Revolution offered the c-clip eliminator at all, even as an option.
I didn't think anyone offered it.
If they do indeed offer a S35 kit with 30 spline shafts and a c-clip eliminator I think that is a viable option for running 35s.
I wish they would pick up and offer something like the bolt on D35 truss that Superior used to sell.
Then again, maybe there was no real advantage to that truss with a Super kit and a CCE.
Everyone seems to miss the point of the Super 35 when they think it should have the CCE. If you have the Super kit, the CCE is pretty much a waste due to how rarely the axle shafts fail.
The CCE is more for the stock shafts and upgraded aftermarket shafts where breakage is more consistent.
The loading on the shafts is identical or identical enough that it isn't an issue. The only load difference is lateral where pull out or push in is controlled by the C-clips and the button on the end of the shaft and at the shaft collar with a CCE.
What is true is the CCE removes lateral loads from the cross pin and I believe that is what contributes to the survival of stock carriers when used with the CCE and high strength stock shaft replacements.
My fear at first was transference of the weaker link downstream to the stock carrier and we would see a lot more broken. That never happened so I suspect that stopping the side loads on the cross pin helps the stock carrier keep from splitting in half through the cross pin holes.
Sorry to hear you drew the 3.07 card. My 00 TJ also had 3.07's when I purchased it. Horrible gear ratio for crawling, probably not too bad for highway use. Are you locking it when installing gears? If so, it is no biggie if you're installing full-carrier lockers.
Another plug for the Super 35. Good option if you are on a tight budget, I upgraded after 3-4 years of running the super 35 with 0 issues. (I had the Superior brand, I'd go Revolution today) Just upgraded to an 8.8 because I had money burning a hole in my pocket.
Yeah 3.07s are awful, the new tires I have on just make things worse. I plan on doing an ARB locker in the front dana 30, is there anything I should upgrade on the d30 before installing a locker?
What are full carrier lockers? Will I not need a new carrier if I install the ARB? I also cant decide weather to do the 8.8 swap or a s35 kit.
Just want to thank the gurus that have contributed to this thread. This has been a ton of help to me for making decisions on how I want to build my own axle.
Full carrier lockers entirely replace the carrier aka case. Full carrier lockers include the ARB Air locker, Detroit Locker, Ox Locker, and the Eaton E-Locker.
You don't need any aftermarket chromoly shafts to wheel 35's on a D30. But if you're worried about it, they can be fairly inexpensive insurance and are easy to install. The inly problem I ever had was a u-joint cap walking off, which destroyed the ears on that side. I grabbed another shaft for cheap off craigslist, put a new joint in it, tacked the caps, and ran it. Probably could've just ordered a chromoly shaft and been done with it instead
My D30 broke its passenger side axle shaft ears with 35's and locker which then busted up the u-joint after it was able to pull free. No more breakages after I installed alloy shafts.
Your OE unhardened shaft ears are what allowed your bearing caps to walk out, not the other way around. The OE shaft ears simply aren't strong enough when you're on a tough trail with 35's and a locker. Which is why u-joints usually stop breaking after alloy shafts are installed, they hang on to the bearing caps far more easily and securely.
This shows one of the broken ears on my previous TJ's Dana 30 OE shafts.
Ah, well, good to know. Either way a replacement shaft did the trick. Chromoly's never a bad option.
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