GCALLY LJ Build - Page 4

**mrblaine** · 03-04-2009, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gcally

I can always cut the inner C’s off and go 1 ton later.

Having been in the position to do just that with Currie HP 9" front axles a few times, I can tell you not to waste your time. You won't save anything by doing that except the center housing and a few pieces of tube.

Here's what you will be changing. Inner C's, shortening the tubes because the 1 ton knuckles are much wider, new seals because the 35 spline axles are larger in diameter, (typically), new locker because the one you have now is the wrong spline count, new trackbar mount because no one in their right mind does a 1 ton front and doesn't go ram assist and higher steer, and finally, you will likely go with a new suspension at that point because what you have now won't really work with the larger tires so that means moving the upper link mounts or beefing them up.

You are far better off pulling the axle intact, selling it and putting that money towards your new axle.

Quote:

I think this setup should provide a good and almost bullet proof setup for 35’s

Don't over drive it and you'll be fine. Your limit is the u-joint.

gcally · 03-04-2009, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrblaine

Having been in the position to do just that with Currie HP 9" front axles a few times, I can tell you not to waste your time. You won't save anything by doing that except the center housing and a few pieces of tube.

Here's what you will be changing. Inner C's, shortening the tubes because the 1 ton knuckles are much wider, new seals because the 35 spline axles are larger in diameter, (typically), new locker because the one you have now is the wrong spline count, new trackbar mount because no one in their right mind does a 1 ton front and doesn't go ram assist and higher steer, and finally, you will likely go with a new suspension at that point because what you have now won't really work with the larger tires so that means moving the upper link mounts or beefing them up.

You are far better off pulling the axle intact, selling it and putting that money towards your new axle.

Yea once you start to add up all the parts it really does not make reusing the center section wort it.

I really would like to go 37's to help gain back some clearance for the RockCrusher HP60. But like you have said in many of your posts, the jump from 35’s to 37’s is like going from 31’s to 35’s the jump in tire size adds a lot more strain to your components on the Jeep. I really do not think the extra 1 inch of axle clearance is worth the extra cost at this time. When I upgrade to true 1 tons I will probably go full width and up to 40’s along with all the other upgrades that are needed to run 1 ton axles.

I just wish the BFG KM2’s true height was 35” instead of 34”.

Quote:

Don't over drive it and you'll be fine. Your limit is the u-joint.

Having the u-joint as a weak point is good and bad. I probably should bring extra axles with me but the good thing they are not that hard to change. The ideal setup would be CTM’s and the Warn big hub kit with 5x5.5 bolt pattern but that is big cash (new outer knuckles, brakes, rotors, calipers, new wheels…….).

I could go with CTM’s and the Warn small hub kit but my AEV wheels will not work with the hub.

Do you think the Dana30 ball joints and spicer u-joints will hold up to a BFG KM2 37’s (actual size around 36”)?

**mrblaine** · 03-04-2009, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gcally

Do you think the Dana30 ball joints and spicer u-joints will hold up to a BFG KM2 37’s (actual size around 36”)?

You can't nit pick a tire because of a perceived actual versus stated size. If it's a 37, it's a 37 and you can only find out if they (u-joints and axles) will hold up by running the tire.

A 37" MT/R may not actually measure 37", but it is 2" bigger than a 35 and that's the issue.

**ericson89** · 03-04-2009, 11:25 AM

i love seeing crashed jeeps like this get a new life. great build so far man, great job!

gcally · 03-04-2009, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrblaine

You can't nit pick a tire because of a perceived actual versus stated size. If it's a 37, it's a 37 and you can only find out if they (u-joints and axles) will hold up by running the tire.

A 37" MT/R may not actually measure 37", but it is 2" bigger than a 35 and that's the issue.

Yea you’re correct; I am just over thinking tire size when I need to run what I have. You know how it works must go bigger better now! 35's should do just fine and if I go any bigger I think I am asking for trouble. The last thing I want is to be stranded on the trail with broken axles and ball joints

LGriffith · 05-06-2009, 08:03 PM

Any updates on this one?

paine · 05-06-2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gcally

I got the GroundPounderFab rear bumper mocked up tonight. I wanted to make sure everything fit before I paint it. The bumper is really nice and fit perfectly.

Nice Build, where did you end up getting the bumper?

Jeepguy1977 · 05-06-2009, 09:44 PM

So any updated pics?

**banone403** · 08-05-2009, 10:43 PM

great build, im watchin

LGriffith · 12-01-2009, 11:22 AM

Come on, I was really excited for this build. How's it coming?

**Unlimited04** · 12-01-2009, 11:27 AM

updates? pics?

**DaFuzz** · 12-01-2009, 05:42 PM

bump for updates...

gcally · 01-13-2010, 01:18 PM

Ok it’s time for an update. 2010 came really fast and I need to get this thing done. My friends and I have a trip to Colorado planned for early July so the LJ must be done and tested before then. The jeep is basically in the same condition it was 6 months ago but some of the build has changed. I had some trouble with the front axle (bad story).

Transfer Case:
I am in the process of installing an nv241 Rubicon transfer case. I have the new case bolted in and ready for the skid plate. I am also installing a Novak t-case shifter linkage. I got the 241 out of a 04 Rubicon that only had 15,000 miles on it. I sold my old t-case for $300 and the new one cost $800. If you add the cost of a SYE that the stock t-case would need, I really only have an extra $250 in a stronger t-case and 4-1 ratio.

Rear Axle:
Rear axle was dropped off at Solid axle (I only live 15 min away). Matt welded on stock TJ brackets, converted the axle to disk brakes, and went over the entire axle. Rear sold HP60 is bad *** and ready to bolt in.

Old Front Axle:

I do not want to bash Currie so I am not going to tell the whole story but basically my front spider 9 was built by Currie and the screwed up when they butt welded the inner C’s on the axle. I ended up getting a refund from Currie but I am out $900 and a have a destroyed spider 9 housing sitting in my basement.

New Front Axle:

I found a good deal on a Dynatrac JK HP44 set up for a TJ. Basically Dynatrac takes a stock JK Rubicon HP44 and removes the tubes. Next they press in new shorter tubes which are 2.75” dia x .375” wall (stock is 2.25” dia x .25” wall). The thicker tubes will solve the weak JK stock tubes. They also use thicker brackets and spring perches. All said and done you have a new generation HP44 setup for a TJ. All the original JK brakes and steering are retained but the bolt pattern was converted to 5 on 4.5. Next ORE gussets were welded on to fix the weak stock JK C’s.

Stock gears were 410’s so Matt at Solid installed a 488 gear set to match the rear 488’s. The axle was supposed to come with the new generation 1350 u-joints but this was a prototype axle so it ended up having the smaller 760x u-joints. I am in the process of ordering custom RCV Performance CV axle shafts which should be just as strong as a stock Dana 60 shaft.

My tire size is 35’s so I think the front axle should hold up fairly well. We all know the rear axle will have no problems with a Solid Axle HP Dana 60.

Drive Shafts:
I am going with Tom Woods front and rear drive shafts. Rear is going to be 1350 and front is going to be 1310. I was going to go both front and rear 1350’s but a 1350 front setup is not worth the upgrade price when my max tire size is going to be 35’s.

Stay tuned because I this thing must be done by April.

skipwheat · 01-13-2010, 02:18 PM

so just found your build looks awesome im also doing a lcg lj. i will be going with spider 9's and 37's

i was looking at your pics and found the biggest problem with the jeep while it was at the boneyard.

that horrible cavaliers tire cover. if it would of had a hokies cover the whole jeep would have been just fine.

build looks awesome man!

gcally · 01-13-2010, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipwheat

so just found your build looks awesome im also doing a lcg lj. i will be going with spider 9's and 37's

i was looking at your pics and found the biggest problem with the jeep while it was at the boneyard.

that horrible cavaliers tire cover. if it would of had a hokies cover the whole jeep would have been just fine.

build looks awesome man!

Thanks, I ripped the spare tire cover off before I towed the jeep back from NY to PA. I would not tow the jeep for 6 hours with cavaliers tire cover on the back of the jeep.

I hope you are talking to Dave and Jeff at Rokmen about your spider 9 and LCG build. I talked them last week and they are building some customer rigs up with spider 9's and keeping them under 2.5 inches of lift.