post #1 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
bikerjeep
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Fuel Pump install on 99 Tj

Anyone know how difficult this is and what is a fair price to have a new one installed. The dealer is wanting $490.00 to fix the problem.. Jeep is hard to start from a cold start. They say the fuel line is bleeding down due to the pump being bad and about ready to go out..


02 TJ Sahara was sold. Left with 1999 TJ Sport, Auto, Ford 8.8 rear, Dana 30 front, locked on both ends. Big Daddy front and rear bummpers with Big Daddy rocker slides. Warn 8000lb winches front and rear. Interior tub line-x sprayed. ** it's for sale **
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post #2 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:19 AM
Dogman
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Sounds like the anti-drainback valve, so they're at least half right. I don't think that means the pump "is about to go bad."

Try turning the key on-off-on-off-on (leaving in the on position for about 1 second each time). That will allow the pump to prime the fuel line 3 times rather than one. If the Jeep fires up right away after doing that, it's the valve.

By the way, that's a very common problem.
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post #3 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:26 AM
wrangler2002
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i think they might be full of sh*t.

- turn on the ignition (without turning the engine over. The pump should turn on for 3 seconds and stop). This should pressurize your fuel line. You can check this by pressing the valve on the fuel rail and see if fuel shoots out.
- turn the key and see if it starts up immediately. If the problem were the check valves, it should turn on without a problem since the fuel lines are now pressurized.

If you feel up to it, get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pump’s pressures (it screws right in to the valve located on the fuel rail). I think the ideal pressure should be around 49 psi +/-5psi. This is with the ignition on and not the engine. After you shut off the engine/ignition it should drop down to zero after an hour or two (mine does). It doesn’t necessarily mean that there is no fuel in the lines, just no pressure. That might be normal after the fuel cools off…

Never trust a dealer.
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post #4 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
bikerjeep
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they did mention the value but made it sound like it was part of the pump that is in the tank.. Is this true? What and where is the value? Is that user replaceable? I do some minor maintenace.. oil changes, diff service type stuff..

02 TJ Sahara was sold. Left with 1999 TJ Sport, Auto, Ford 8.8 rear, Dana 30 front, locked on both ends. Big Daddy front and rear bummpers with Big Daddy rocker slides. Warn 8000lb winches front and rear. Interior tub line-x sprayed. ** it's for sale **
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post #5 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:42 AM
wrangler2002
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No unfortunately the check valve is part of the pump. I think the pressure regulator has one as well (not sure). But I wouldn’t be in a rush over spending $500. I think they are just guessing at this point.

it's worth a 5 min test.
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post #6 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:46 AM
Jim Shanks
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The symptoms you are talking about sound like the anti-drainback valve to me also. My '98 had the exact same problems. It was resolved by replacing the fuel pump assembly which includes a new valve. It is an hour or so install with a friend, and should be in the neighborhood of $250 or so for the part. Check out stu-offroad.com for a writeup I did when replacing mine.

I did that quite some time ago and mine is still starting up like a champ.

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post #7 of Old 10-19-2005, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
bikerjeep
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when you say fuel rail ?? I may be a little slow here but where is that or what are you refering to?

02 TJ Sahara was sold. Left with 1999 TJ Sport, Auto, Ford 8.8 rear, Dana 30 front, locked on both ends. Big Daddy front and rear bummpers with Big Daddy rocker slides. Warn 8000lb winches front and rear. Interior tub line-x sprayed. ** it's for sale **
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post #8 of Old 10-19-2005, 09:08 AM
onebigtj
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The said fuel rail is located in the engine bay. It attaches to the injectors and gives even amounts of gas to each injector. Its on the drivers side of the engine bay. It has a schreader(sp?) valve on it also and this is where I believe you can hook up a fuel pressure gage
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post #9 of Old 10-19-2005, 09:16 AM
wrangler2002
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I found this picture in the web:

http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/...to03_large.jpg

Look at the right side of the picture. Can you see a little red tag? To the right of it is a black cap that you can unscrew. Once you unscrew it, you will see a little pin inside. Press it and fuel shout shoot out if you have pressure in your fuel line. You can also attach a pressure gauge to it.

Fuel is pushed by the pump in to a metal tube that comes from the tank all the way to the front of the car and in to the fuel rail. The fuel injectors get their gas from the rail.

If you still can’t see it, send me a PM with your email and I’ll send you an edited picture so you can easily locate it.
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post #10 of Old 10-19-2005, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
bikerjeep
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Thanks for all the info.. I'll chk that out this evening and let you know if I need any more help and decide how to proceed. I prefer to not spend any more than possible.. If the fuel pump needs to be replaced I hope I can do it myself.. The dealer made it sound like it was ready to go.. Like everyone I am hesitant to trust them.. I had taken it in for a tune up (plugs) and radiator flush because I just didn't have time to do it myself and I have an off-road trip planned.. I mentioned the hard start problem and they said they would chk it out.. Failed to tell me that they were going to charge me an $80 diagnostic fee but that would be removed I they installed the pump.. So like always I went in for some cheap special coupon service and get reemed.. I purched the Jeep used a few months back because of all the mods that had been done to it and it appeared to be in good mechanical condition.. Now I am wondering what all is about to go wrong and what the the other owner know needed repaired.

02 TJ Sahara was sold. Left with 1999 TJ Sport, Auto, Ford 8.8 rear, Dana 30 front, locked on both ends. Big Daddy front and rear bummpers with Big Daddy rocker slides. Warn 8000lb winches front and rear. Interior tub line-x sprayed. ** it's for sale **
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post #11 of Old 10-18-2012, 09:12 AM
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fuel pump install

im having the exact same problem, been having the same problem for about 6-7 months now with no problems. im going to replace the pump on my own just making sure its on an empty tank before i do the install of the new fuel pump. itll take you a couple hours and youll have to buy the new pump ($70-$120 depending on the brand) its a simple job just remember to be gentle. ill definetly let you know how it goes but you dont NEED to change the pump just yet. ill try and post a small walk through when i get back on with the results of my install.
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post #12 of Old 10-18-2012, 09:57 AM
gmiller0737
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It's not too hard of a job,Replace the Entire Assembly with a Quality Replacement, 1st time I went the cheap route with Airtex only lasted 1.5 years & quit & left Me in the middle of the road,2nd Pump is a Bosch from Carquest had O.E. Mopar Tags on the Bosch Pump so far it's been great.
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post #13 of Old 10-18-2012, 09:59 AM
Jerry Bransford
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The issue is likely confined to the check valve aka anti-drainback valve inside the fuel pressure regulator that sits on top of the fuel pump. You can get them for under $100, I think I paid $80 for my last one, from www.rockauto.com. The FPR and fuel pump are available separately on 2004 and older TJs so I would just replace the FPR.

There are two antidrainback valves, one in the FPR and one in the fuel pump but the one in the FPR is the usual source of the problem. Once the fuel tank is dropped, replacing the FPR takes about a minute. It just snaps into place after releasing the little steel snap-clip that holds it to the top of the fuel pump.

I would normally not replace the fuel pump itself for this issue.

Getting Savvy...

When you have a choice, buy American.
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post #14 of Old 10-18-2012, 10:00 AM
shadowwalker
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I replaced mine with a no-so-expensive brand. Now my fuel gauge doesn't work and the check valve bleeds fuel back to the tank. I just created more problems I guess.
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post #15 of Old 10-18-2012, 10:02 AM
goofus
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Changing the fuel pump is not hard. It's kind of like working a well if you have one at home- you want to do everything the right way and replace everything while you're in there because you'd prefer to do not go back in for a few years...

Get the tank as low as you can, go do donuts somewhere for an hour... Its just easy to balance when you drop it with less weight.

Battery disconnected.
Get a floor jack and piece of wood or something to equalize the weight in the jack.
Disconnect the filler neck.
Disconnect the fuel line- these are easier than you think.
Disconnect the electrical connector to the tank.
Disocnnect anythign else- not sure if there's a breather line of some sort or not, can't remember.
Loosen all the tank mounting straps and mounting bolts.
Slowly drop it.
You will need a mega-large plier or something similar to get the monster white plastic nut off that holds the pump it. Don't mangle it- you'll need it.
Replace pump.
I also took the the time to take the tank out of the skid plate and clean it out. Sand builds up in there = rust.
Electrical connector- the jack may be different, but it'll have the same wire. Cut/splice the connector off your old pump if you have to.
Reinstall.

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