post #1 of Old 06-13-2010, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
domano 68
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Fuel Injector O-rings replacement

I recently finished up replacing my spark plugs and cleaning the throttle body on my 05 Unlimited. Noticed the o rings on the fuel injectors were sticking out and some of them torn. Took the fuel rail off and most of the o rings were gone. Going to the dealership tomorrow and pick up some replacements.

I have no experience with fuel systems and never have performed this job before so I wanted to through out the question of what precautions needed here, any tips or tricks, etc.

Does anyone have the p/n for the o rings?

Thanks in advance!!


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post #2 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:02 PM
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post #3 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
domano 68
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Advance Auto carries this part, which means I could fix this today instead of waiting until the stealership opens tomorrow. Any precautions about bying aftermarket o rings?

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post #4 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:20 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I don't understand how the o-rings could be torn already. Your Jeep isn't old, have the fuel injectors been removed/replaced already? However, once the fuel rail has been removed, the fuel injectors basically just pull out. The o-ring is what holds it in place, the fuel injector kind of "snaps" into place when the o-ring seats. The bad o-ring is just pulled off & the new o-ring just pulls into place into its seating groove. Just be gentle with the new o-ring, don't stretch it any more than you have to to get it seated, and it'll pull into its o-ring seating area fine.

I wouldn't worry about using the aftermarket o-rings, they should be fine.

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post #5 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
domano 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I don't understand how the o-rings could be torn already. Your Jeep isn't old, have the fuel injectors been removed/replaced already? However, once the fuel rail has been removed, the fuel injectors basically just pull out. The o-ring is what holds it in place, the fuel injector kind of "snaps" into place when the o-ring seats. The bad o-ring is just pulled off & the new o-ring just pulls into place into its seating groove. Just be gentle with the new o-ring, don't stretch it any more than you have to to get it seated, and it'll pull into its o-ring seating area fine.

I wouldn't worry about using the aftermarket o-rings, they should be fine.
The previous owner may have pulled the fuel rail off at some point. I was surprised also.

Do I need to pull the fuel injectors off the rail, then slide the o-ring on the injector side that seats into the rail OR leave the injector on the rail and install the o ring on the side of the injector that goes into the manifold working it back into its orignal position? Thanks for chiming in Jerry!

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post #6 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:36 PM
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For me, it was much easier to pull the fuel rail off the injectors first, then only pull the individual injectors out of the intake manifold that need their o-ring replaced. I'm by no means an expert on this, I only did this on my TJ years ago to troubleshoot a misfire problem.

Edit: I forgot to mention the FSM recommends lubricating each o-ring a little with fresh engine oil before installing the fuel injectors.

Edit 2: I just checked my FSM & it says to just use the fuel rail to pull all the injectors out of the intake manifold all at once. Then if needed, you can unclip the fuel injectors from the rail as needed. That's not how I did mine but the FSM is likely giving the more correct procedure.

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post #7 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
For me, it was much easier to pull the fuel rail off the injectors first, then only pull the individual injectors out of the head that need their o-ring replaced. I'm by no means an expert on this, I only did this on my TJ years ago to troubleshoot a misfire problem.

Edit: I forgot to mention the FSM recommends lubricating each new o-ring a little with fresh engine oil before installing them.
Sounds good, thanks again!

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post #8 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:47 PM
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Note the added/changed edits.

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post #9 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Good stuff, thanks!

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post #10 of Old 06-13-2010, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Am I supposed to relieve the pressure here? If so, how? Might be too late for that though since I have the rail pulled from the manifold already .

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post #11 of Old 06-13-2010, 02:16 PM
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I've replaced a bunch of injector o-rings on various Chrysler vehicles, pull the rail with all the injectors at once... it is much easier and you're much less likely to tear an o-ring in the rail.

Smear some wheel bearing grease on the o-rings prior to reinstalling the rail w/ all fuel injectors on it, just don't glob it on because you don't want to plug the fuel injector pintles.

As for relieving pressure, there should be a shrader valve on the rail somewhere IIRC, remove the cap and press the valve to relieve pressure. Watch you don't get it in your eyes, it burns.

Another way to relieve pressure without the shrader valve is to pull the fuel pump relay and then try to start your Jeep. It may run for a second or two, but this will basically deplete the pressure from the rail.

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post #12 of Old 06-13-2010, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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While I have the rail out of the manifold, should I clean the injectors (the tips that go into the manifold)? If so, would throttle body cleaner be ok to use? TIA!

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post #13 of Old 06-13-2010, 02:52 PM
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I would not try to clean the injectors using TB cleaner. Also, don't relieve the fuel pressure by turning the key to the start position with the fuel pump relay removed after removing the injectors. Doing so will cause fuel to spray out and a spark could cause a big fire.

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post #14 of Old 06-13-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Got everything easily installed back and runs great with no codes (so far ) Thanks much!

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post #15 of Old 06-13-2010, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domano 68 View Post
Got everything easily installed back and runs great with no codes (so far ) Thanks much!
I'll be doing the same thing by next weekend, I have to replace an injector I believe is leaking and causing my very long engine starts.

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