Frozen and cracked lug nut - drill out? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-29-2007, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
blueteej
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Frozen and cracked lug nut - drill out?

A lug nut cracked in half while I was adding some Moab wheels to my rickety old Jeep.

Here's a pic.

Can I drill this thing out and replace the wheel stud or should I be driving it to a mechanic? It seems pretty straightforward and simple. Am I over simplifying it?

The lug is on a rear wheel. I have a Dana 35 with drums - it looks like I have enough room to push the old stud out and slide the new one in w/o removing the axle. If anyone knows if this is correct, please verify it.

FYI - This lug is stuck. I bent two lug wrenches while trying to get it. Heat and PB Blaster had no effect. Jack on the end of my lug wrench/breaker bar had no effect. The lug nut finally stripped. I got a stripped nut remover tool, pounded that on, cranked on it and it snapped the lug in half. Now there isn't enough of the nut left to get a tool on it.

I picked up a replacement wheel stud earlier as I was expecting the stud to snap. It never did. So I have one and I'm ready to jump on it.


1997 Wrangler TJ, Blue/Saddle, Low Output 4-cyl, 5-spd, Dana 30/35, 4.10 axle, 2.5 OME coil and shock lift, RE Quick Disconnects, 245-75/16 Goodyear MT/Rs on Moabs and we call her Daisy.
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-29-2007, 05:45 PM
bluehdmc
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I'd just drill it out till the lug nut falls off, then remove wheel and replace stud.

bluehdmc
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2005 Stone White Rubicon Unlimited
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-29-2007, 05:52 PM
littleman66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehdmc
I'd just drill it out till the lug nut falls off, then remove wheel and replace stud.
thats what a mechanic would do.

2001 60th Anniversary TJ.
2" BB. 31" Goodyear Wrangler MTR's
Dana44 LSD. front Aussie Locker
homemade rear bumper with hitch, two recovery points
dual battery. 1750 watt inverter
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-29-2007, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
blueteej
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The drilling out part I get and I can handle that. Here's what I'm confused on:

- Can I pound the old stud out while the Jeep is jacked up?

- I believe I have to take the brake drum off. Does this just slide off or is there something else that needs to be done to remove it?

- With the wheel on it's hard to tell where the old stud will come out and how I will put the new stud in. Is there ample access to do this?

I searched for a write up or previous post and found conflicting info about having to open the dif up to remove the axle to gain access for inserting the new stud. I don't want to rip into this to find out I need to crack the dif open.

1997 Wrangler TJ, Blue/Saddle, Low Output 4-cyl, 5-spd, Dana 30/35, 4.10 axle, 2.5 OME coil and shock lift, RE Quick Disconnects, 245-75/16 Goodyear MT/Rs on Moabs and we call her Daisy.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-30-2007, 03:37 AM
Jeremy99
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I replaced a stud on the back wheel of my jeep last summer. It's not hard. It seems like you will have to take the drum off. That is not very hard. Loosen the brake by turning the tensioner through the hole on the back side of the brake. You have to remove the rubber plug that covers the hole. Press the old stud out with a c-clamp. You will have to put a socket onto the backside of the stud. It has to be big enough for the stud to go through. Then you press the new stud in with the socket on the front side. Good luck
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-30-2007, 03:45 AM
bblhead
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I actually twisted off a lug about 4 weeks ago.

1. Remove the brake Drum.

2. Push out the old lug with a punch and hammer.

3. Insert a new lug from back of hub.

4. Using another open style lug nut, I slowly and by hand pulled the new stud into the hub.

5. Reinstall the Brake drum (taking the time to inspect the drums and pads).

6. Installed the wheel.

All told, about 20 min. I replaced 2 lug nuts that day. Damn shop x-threaded the lugs.

Ben

HIS: 97 Sport, 4" Rough Country X-Series, 33" Super Swamper LTB, Airaid Cold Air Intake, Banks Power Exhaust, Looking to "Fix" the axles soon

HERS: 09 Unlimited Rubicon Stock.... For now!!!!
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-25-2012, 07:19 PM
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehdmc View Post
I'd just drill it out till the lug nut falls off, then remove wheel and replace stud.
What type of drill bit did you use for that ... I'm encountering the same problem
Is 1/2 inch cobalt drill bit is enough ?

2008 WK CRD Blue, QD II, Startech SD6 mod.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-26-2012, 03:15 PM
brianmlove
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the drill bit should be bigger around that the wheel stud itself.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-26-2012, 06:59 PM
gmiller0737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jediknight View Post
What type of drill bit did you use for that ... I'm encountering the same problem
Is 1/2 inch cobalt drill bit is enough ?
A 1/2" should do the trick,Start by center punching dead center then start with a smaller bit maybe 3/16" & use lube as you drill move up a couple of bit sizes at a time.
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-26-2012, 08:40 PM
jediknight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmiller0737 View Post
A 1/2" should do the trick,Start by center punching dead center then start with a smaller bit maybe 3/16" & use lube as you drill move up a couple of bit sizes at a time.
Sucess !!
Wheel is now off, caliper is off and caliper bracket off.
Now I have to deal with a stuborn rotor. I noticed that there is a small rubber O-ring just between the spindle assembly and the rotor ... is there anything else I have to think of befor hammering the rotor ??

2008 WK CRD Blue, QD II, Startech SD6 mod.
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-26-2012, 10:22 PM
brianmlove
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Once you take the caliper off and the metal locking rings on the outside of the wheel studs you should be able to hit it then
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