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Found a deal on 33's.... need advice.
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#1 | |
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Found a deal on 33's.... need advice.
I was just about to start looking for a set of 31's for my stock TJ when I ran into a set of used 33's for only $100. So I of course picked them up. I've been doing a lot of research and trying not to spend too much money. Here is what I've come up with - tell me what you think before I make a mistake.....
--Wheels - Cragar 3655812 15x8; $175 from summitt shipped --Lift - TJ/LJ 2.25 Inch Complete Budget Boost Kit w/(4)Rubicon Express Twin Tube Shocks; $262 from 4WheelCustoms shipped That's the whole thing for under $550, I was going to spend $630 on 31's from desert rat. More labor though. Just so you know I don't do a lot of wheeling, just somne trails now and then. thanks all,
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Burns ---> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3142236 1999 TJ Wrangler 2.5L - 2.5" BB, 33x12.5, Cragar V-5's w/3.75 BS, Skyjacker Hydro 7000s 1993 ZJ Laredo 4.0 I6 - Pirrelli Scorpion A/T, Desert Rat brush guard, big ol class 3 hitch to haul the boat, and lots of rust. |
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#2 |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 54,492
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A 2.25" lift is not tall enough for 33" tires, 3" is the bare minimum with 4" being highly recommended. You could add a 1" body lift to that 2.25" for a total of 3.25" of clearance but it's still marginal if you offroad a lot. I'm a real fan of Rubicon Express but their twin-tube shocks are VERY stiff riding, I'd look at something else like OME or Skyjacker Hydros which make your TJ ride much better. Rancho's R5000 and ProComp's ES-3000 ride just as stiffly as RE's twin-tubes do, I'd avoid them as well.
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Gone to King of the Hammers, back Sunday! Jerry's Geezer Jeep II Website Getting Savvy... Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine When you have a choice, buy American.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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x2
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1998 TJ, 4.0L Auto | 3" Nth Springs | JKS QDs | D30 Detroit True Trac | Nth Tummy Tucker | 35x12.50r15 Goodyear MT/R | JB Super Short SYE| 1.25" BL | Novak Tcase Shifter
Rolled Red Jeep Club Member #7 |
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#4 |
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Demonic Jeep Freak!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, Va
Posts: 21,945
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You can get a 2" BB with Skyjacker hydro shocks for $216 shipped(buy separately).
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=skyjacker+hydr o+shocks&osCsid=40673cb34a75aab9ef415dfde8396996&x =40&y=4 |
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#5 |
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looks like you'll need to add 20 more bucks to Boogie's number for the bumpstop extensions if you're so inclined...
edit... just saw the whole BB (spacers and ext.s) at boogie's link $225, his is better... I doubt an extra quarter inch would make that much difference, but in the spirit of weighing all the options... 2.25" spacers w/bumpstops http://www.4wheelcustoms.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID=158263 95.34 (shipping included) hydros from here or Boogie's link (both come out exactly the same...) http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=23146&ProductId=121362 135.84 (free shipping)
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Join these groups... NGJC #4 - VA Jeepers - LJ Owners "I'm not a Republican because I grew up rich, but because I didn't want to spend the rest of my life poor, waiting for the government to rescue me." MH The less a man makes declarative statements, the less apt he is to look foolish in retrospect. - CR Finally, a word to those of you out there who have yet to be offended by something I have written or said: Please be patient. I am working as fast as I can. - AC |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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do not get the twin tube RE shocks. That is the dumbest thing I have done yet regarding the Jeep. Like Jerry said, for 33's you can do a BB and 1 in. body lift and I know people that run this and don't mind the rub offroad, but a 3-4 in. lift is the best way to go. Check out the Rough Country 3 in. if you are on a tight budget. If money is no issue check into Rubicon Express.
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'97 TJ with 31 inch BFG KO's, Rubicon Express 2 in. lift and shocks, KC lights, aussie in front, skid plates |
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#7 |
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Or you could try...
a BDS 2" kit (springs and shocks): http://www.bds-suspension.com/kits/417H plus a JKS body lift: http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=B1BODY&Store_Code=JKS01&Catego ry_Code=Body_Motor $395.57 + $124.70 = $520.27 If you take some time to look you could probably find a little better prices from some dealer. I just quoted the prices from the manufacturer's sites. Also, from what I've heard you would likely end up with a little over 2" from BDS springs, plus 1.25" from the body lift. I run basically the same set-up w/ 33's, but I did extend the rear bumpstops to keep the tires out of the rear fenders.
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2003 Bright Silver Rubicon 285/70/17 Goodyear Kevlar MT/R's, OME, DIY bumpers/roll cage upgrades, Champion beadlocks, 33Eng BellyUp w/CV shaft, JKS BL&MML |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Consider the shape the 33s are in. For $100, you probable won't get much. If you pass on the new tires for the BB, you may wind up back in the market for new tires before you realize it. I ran 31 BFG ATs stock for 50K miles.
While I agree with Jerry, a BB and 33s aren't ideal, but, when your on a budget, your on a budget, and I didn't want a BL. I do not disconnect my swaybars when off road and have extended bump stops, but am pleased with what I have for what I spent. The only place I could have probably saved some money was on my shocks. I did get in on a buy 3 get 1 free deal at the time. It is sufficient for where I ride. So, you have to look at the big picture. What are you going to use it for? You can get by with the BB and 33s, then add a BL when you can if you feel you need it. You can do it. Just beware of your limitations. My end goal, after the kids are gone, a 4.5RE LA with 35s. However, I'm going to hold off on the BL until it's is obviously necessary.
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98 TJ Sport: 2" Skyjacker spacers w/Rubicon coils, Rancho RSX shocks, 33-12.50 BFG MT on 15X8 Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, Borla header, Flowmaster Mufler, Pioneer sound W/12" RF P3 sub and MTX amp 06 Nissan Frontier NISMO CC 4X4: 2.5" lift with Rancho RS9000X shocks, 285/75-16 BFG ATs, Alpine sound Mdawg's 98TJ @ Cardomain, http://www.mississippi-mud.com/forums/index.php? |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Owning a Jeep and then getting addicted to wheeling is the antithesis of saving money.
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FUGIT IRREPARABILE TEMPUS... CARPE DIEM! "Drive it there, wheel it, drive it home" JEEP OBSESSION: Testing the limits of financial stability. Windtunnel failed since September, 2000
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the advise so far. The reason I was just going to do the 31's was that I did not want to have to deal with moving all of the other parts after a lift.
I had already read that with the BB lift at 2-2.5 in I "shouldn't" have any probs with the wobble and adjusting anything. Anything at 3+in then you have to adjust the TC, rad, etc, etc. The A/T 33's I ran into are at about 70% tread. The guy claimed they were repos. They were at a flea market. I figured that the small amount of miles I drive they should last me about 5 years or more. I couldn't pass them up; not at that price. So if I put the BB on, then mount the 33's - I would get rubbing, but only while offroading. If I put a BL on too - no more rubbing but then I'll have to worry about the wobble and adjustments. Is this what I'm getting from the post so far???
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Burns ---> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3142236 1999 TJ Wrangler 2.5L - 2.5" BB, 33x12.5, Cragar V-5's w/3.75 BS, Skyjacker Hydro 7000s 1993 ZJ Laredo 4.0 I6 - Pirrelli Scorpion A/T, Desert Rat brush guard, big ol class 3 hitch to haul the boat, and lots of rust. |
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#11 |
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A little off topic here, but I'm curious about the 33's: brand, style, etc. No matter how little you drive, a used set of 33" tires for $100 bucks that may last for 5 years sounds too good to be true. You found the deal of the century.
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[B][FONT="Arial Black"][COLOR="Navy"]Get busy livin' or get busy dyin'.[/COLOR][/FONT][/B] |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Go for it.
The BL will not change the handling (wobbles or vibes). It just lifts the body off the frame to get additional clearance around the tires. Some have also had to drop the TC with washers and some have added a MML, but I wouldn't until it was necessary.
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98 TJ Sport: 2" Skyjacker spacers w/Rubicon coils, Rancho RSX shocks, 33-12.50 BFG MT on 15X8 Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, Borla header, Flowmaster Mufler, Pioneer sound W/12" RF P3 sub and MTX amp 06 Nissan Frontier NISMO CC 4X4: 2.5" lift with Rancho RS9000X shocks, 285/75-16 BFG ATs, Alpine sound Mdawg's 98TJ @ Cardomain, http://www.mississippi-mud.com/forums/index.php? |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
x2... A 2" suspension lift (BB or springs) plus the 1" body lift is a good low-budget basic plan for improving trail performance (plus it looks MUCHO better than stock). Lots of guys wheel like that for years before upgrading - a good percentage even keep that set-up for good. IMO you could add one more item to the list that will give you significant improvement off-road. Drive it for a while and then buy some quick disconnects. You'll be amazed at the difference they make. Also - OME sells a rear trackbar relocation bracket, and you might want to address the front track bar as well if you're concerned about keeping the axles perfectly centered. It can work w/o adjusting the track bars, yet it will handle a little weird sometimes because the axles are pulled to opposite sides when they are lifted, giving your Jeep a 'dog walk'.
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2003 Bright Silver Rubicon 285/70/17 Goodyear Kevlar MT/R's, OME, DIY bumpers/roll cage upgrades, Champion beadlocks, 33Eng BellyUp w/CV shaft, JKS BL&MML |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Now that you guys have told me that I can do this I am worried about the wear on the different componentsor dealing with wobbles. Also should I go with 3.75 or 4" of backspacing? I saw a calculation that someone explained but I just didn't get it.
Should I just try to sell or trade these Lemans 33x12.50x15 lt M&S tires for some 30 or 31's. This TJ only has the 2.5 and an auto transmission.
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Burns ---> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3142236 1999 TJ Wrangler 2.5L - 2.5" BB, 33x12.5, Cragar V-5's w/3.75 BS, Skyjacker Hydro 7000s 1993 ZJ Laredo 4.0 I6 - Pirrelli Scorpion A/T, Desert Rat brush guard, big ol class 3 hitch to haul the boat, and lots of rust. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Moving to 33's w/ a 4 cylinder auto is going to feel SLO-O-O-O-W unless you regear. One of the guys that goes off road with our group runs 33's w/ a 2.5 and a manual transmission, and he has a real hard time going up highway grades.
Your idea about sticking w/ 31's would be alot cheaper and, as you said, would be less likely to cause as much wear and tear as 33's. You might just want to get some good aggressive tires and a BB, along with the disconnects, and call it good. You can have lots of fun just with those mods. I have even seen guys in old beater Jeeps running 31's and doing lots of the medium difficulty trails at Tellico with no problems. EDIT: Also, the backspacing issue shouldn't be a concern if you stay with 31's. If you do buy after market wheels then you would get more use from 3.75" backspacing. That way if you ever went up in tire size you would still be able to use the same wheels with less likelihood of the tires rubbing at full lock.
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2003 Bright Silver Rubicon 285/70/17 Goodyear Kevlar MT/R's, OME, DIY bumpers/roll cage upgrades, Champion beadlocks, 33Eng BellyUp w/CV shaft, JKS BL&MML |
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