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Unread 07-14-2010, 07:20 PM   #61
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What about a DS with a CV joint at eaxh end?
That doesn't work. Maybe someone else can explain the metrics on that?...

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Unread 07-14-2010, 10:27 PM   #62
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Well I picked up the 9"

65" wms, 31 spline, 11" drums, heavy duty housing, 3.25 gears, posi and a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

Now comes the hard work...

1. figuring out a way to make everything either 5x4.5 or 5x5.5.
2. figuring out how to compensate for the extra width of the rear axle.
3. driveshaft angles.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:06 AM   #63
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You want 5x5.5. You usually want the front axle to be either the same width or 1" wider so it tracks correctly.

Maybe build it up and do the front at the same time? You can order up a Currie 9 front housing with 1 ton inner c's for fairly cheap then build it as money allows.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:23 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
That doesn't work. Maybe someone else can explain the metrics on that?...
actually it does work, but its usually for specialized applications. normally you'd put the DC at the t-case end since thats where the most severe angle is occuring. Some of the ZJ and XJ guys with really tall lifts end up running double DC shafts in front to get enough caster since the pinion angle is just terrible. those guys have shorter front driveshafts and run like 6-10" lifts... i've seen some pics of competition rigs running double DC's too, like where they end up with a pilot bearing mounted inside the tube chassis, and a short driveshaft front and rear to keep it out of the rocks. the biggest downside i've read about is the weight...the rotational mass is crazy with those big hunks of u-joints and CV's on each side...making balancing and rotational speed an issue. a most of the mass of a CV assembly is toward the outside, maybe double the radius of the weighs on the shaft your trying to balance it with...thats where some of the new stuff like Tripod joints or the Thompson coupling come in...with more centered mass.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:49 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBLJ View Post
You want 5x5.5. You usually want the front axle to be either the same width or 1" wider so it tracks correctly.

Maybe build it up and do the front at the same time? You can order up a Currie 9 front housing with 1 ton inner c's for fairly cheap then build it as money allows.
I would love to build a front...but I just spent time and money building my hp30, and unless I could unload that to fund the majority of the build.

Otherwise I would shorten the ford 9" to about 63" wms, and run 1.25" 5x5.5 wheel spacer adapters on the hp30.

But then...where to get custom length shafts for cheap? (yea, I said cheap )
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:03 AM   #66
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what if on the 9 you run wheels with something around 5" backspacing or maybe 5.5 if you can find them and then get the spacers up front. would that even it out or would the rear still be slightly wider?
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Unread 07-15-2010, 11:32 AM   #67
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I need to make up about 4.5" in the front... so 2.25" on each side.

I wouldn't be opposed to that, other than the inability to rotate my tires.

I could run 1.25" 5x5.5 wheel spacer adapters in the front with 3.75 backspaced wheels. And simply run a 4.75 BS wheel in the rear...in theory it would work (might look weird, and no more rotation)
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Unread 07-15-2010, 12:23 PM   #68
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But then...where to get custom length shafts for cheap? (yea, I said cheap )
buy shafts that fit and have them cut down and resplined locally...
Moser Ford 9" 35 spline axle shafts 5 on 5 1/2 - Colorado4x4.org Forums
Ford 9" ARB, 35 spline, New in box! - Colorado4x4.org Forums

just run massive spacers on the hpd30 till you get tired of burning up wheel bearings & ball joints.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 04:41 PM   #69
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buy shafts that fit and have them cut down and resplined locally...
Moser Ford 9" 35 spline axle shafts 5 on 5 1/2 - Colorado4x4.org Forums
Ford 9" ARB, 35 spline, New in box! - Colorado4x4.org Forums

just run massive spacers on the hpd30 till you get tired of burning up wheel bearings & ball joints.
Yea, that is something I don't want to have to do...

I think I'm going to have it narrowed to 63" wms-wms and have custom length alloy shafts made by Moser.

Then I can just run 1.25" spacers up front and not worry about toasting unit bearings and ball joints.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 05:31 PM   #70
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I have the same 9" axle that Apex picked up, that I am planning on building. Does anyone know it the offset of the yoke will cause issues on 2.5" of lift and a 1" body lift? I also plan on doing a tummy tuck.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 05:33 PM   #71
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Thompson coupling
Man that thing is so freakin cool. Just wait, I'll have custom TC shafts one of these days.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 05:46 PM   #72
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I have the same 9" axle that Apex picked up, that I am planning on building. Does anyone know it the offset of the yoke will cause issues on 2.5" of lift and a 1" body lift? I also plan on doing a tummy tuck.
It isn't the offset that causes an issue. Look at how low the pinion is and how long it is. It makes for a real short driveshaft at a real steep angle.

I didn't understand it until I picked mine up, now I understand it very well.

I have 3.5" of lift and my TC is raised about 1.5" over stock and I am almost certain this axle isn't going to work without a stretch. Plans for a stretch are now being included with the building of this 9"
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Quote:
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 06:17 PM   #73
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I'm not sure exactly how much lift you have and how bad your driveline angle will be... but maybe a solution could be the "broken back" driveline angle?

It would probably be a good idea to look into adding an aftermarket oiling system(it's not uncommon) because I'm sure the pinion angle will be a bit silly, but if you're one to be a guinnea pig for saving money this could turn out pretty cool.

It's on my list of "odd things I would like to try one day" for future builds.

In this pic... the t-case is at 3 degrees. The pinion is at 12 degrees. So 9 degree difference means that angles A -and- B are both 4.5 degrees to eliminate vibrations:



As long as the angles are super crazy you should be able to get away with it.

Here's a simpler and more exaggerated example... the middle picture:



You could try overfilling the rear diff to compensate too... on Tom Wood's site...

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

He says that if you overfill and have problems with fluid foaming, adding a bit of ATF to the gear oil will control that.

Sounds like something fun to test out

Not to mention the driveshaft will be CHEAP because it would utilize no CV, just a slip section in the middle. Could get a junkyard shaft cut to length to test it with drivability-wise before you buy a decent shaft with $$ long slip section.


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Unread 07-15-2010, 06:55 PM   #74
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Or just give it to me since I have an LJ and will have no issues like that
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Unread 07-15-2010, 06:58 PM   #75
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Or just give it to me since I have an LJ and will have no issues like that
I'm going to stretch 4" and see if it makes a difference.
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Quote:
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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