ford 8.8 swap & Lift questions - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-02-2004, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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ford 8.8 swap & Lift questions

Iíve got a 2000 TJ and Iím planning on working in an axle swap (ford 8.8) and a lift (thinking RE 4.5Ē LA). Should I do both at the same time, or one, then the other? Also Iíd like to mount the shock mounts further outboard (just inside the brake housing) and up (for more under-axle clearance). I assume this setup would require a different shock than normal. Can anyone advise me on rules of thumb for choosing the right shock for this setup? If I moved the control arms further up would that make it not work with the lift anymore? Jason from Red Rock 4x4 suggested welding the spring perches forward by the same angle that the pinion will be rotated up. Does anyone know approximately what that angle is? Iíve found a bunch of write-ups for doing the 8.8 swap online. Can anyone add his or her personal experiences to these? Sorry for all the questions-itís a big job and Iím a newbie.
-Steve


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post #2 of 10 Old 06-02-2004, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smunwin
Iíve got a 2000 TJ and Iím planning on working in an axle swap (ford 8.8) and a lift (thinking RE 4.5Ē LA). Should I do both at the same time, or one, then the other? Also Iíd like to mount the shock mounts further outboard (just inside the brake housing) and up (for more under-axle clearance). I assume this setup would require a different shock than normal. Can anyone advise me on rules of thumb for choosing the right shock for this setup? If I moved the control arms further up would that make it not work with the lift anymore? Jason from Red Rock 4x4 suggested welding the spring perches forward by the same angle that the pinion will be rotated up. Does anyone know approximately what that angle is? Iíve found a bunch of write-ups for doing the 8.8 swap online. Can anyone add his or her personal experiences to these? Sorry for all the questions-itís a big job and Iím a newbie.
-Steve
Are you doing this yourself, or paying someone to install for you? The reason I as is if you are paying someone to do it, then get it all done at the same time and save a little labor $ - otherwise it won't matter much. I put in my 8.8 first, then installed the RE LA kit a few weeks later (with a Tellico wheeling trip in between).

'01 TJ with mods... :)

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post #3 of 10 Old 06-02-2004, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Planning on doing it myself with the help of some handy friends of mine.

-s
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin_Jeffster
Are you doing this yourself, or paying someone to install for you? The reason I as is if you are paying someone to do it, then get it all done at the same time and save a little labor $ - otherwise it won't matter much. I put in my 8.8 first, then installed the RE LA kit a few weeks later (with a Tellico wheeling trip in between).

Cheers, Steve
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-02-2004, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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What did you do about the driveshaft? From what i read the pinion on the 8.8 is longer than the dana35. this would make your driveshaft too long. How did you get around that?
Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin_Jeffster
Are you doing this yourself, or paying someone to install for you? The reason I as is if you are paying someone to do it, then get it all done at the same time and save a little labor $ - otherwise it won't matter much. I put in my 8.8 first, then installed the RE LA kit a few weeks later (with a Tellico wheeling trip in between).

Cheers, Steve
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-02-2004, 07:52 PM
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I went with a SYE/CV shaft. After I installed the LA kit, I had to have it lengthened though 'caused I set my wheelbase a couple inches over stock (picked up about 4 inches wheelbase over the short arms).

You will need to factor this in also. Plan on installing an SYE on the transfer case - then take some measurements after everything is installed and order a CV shaft. It's the best way to ensure your driveline angles are correct and avoid vibes and eating u-joints.

Jeff

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post #6 of 10 Old 06-02-2004, 09:27 PM
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In regards to your angle to weld on the perches, I don't remember the exact number but you want your diff yoke to be about 1 degree below your T-case yoke.

Also leave put your CA mounts on in the same place as they are on your existing axle setup. This will keep your rear castor correct.

About moving the shocks. This might also be a good time to move your shocks on the outside of the frame rail. Here is a good write on this mod. http://www.stu-offroad.com/rearshock/rearshock-1.htm

Thanks,
Jack
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-03-2004, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1blackjeep
In regards to your angle to weld on the perches, I don't remember the exact number but you want your diff yoke to be about 1 degree below your T-case yoke.

Also leave put your CA mounts on in the same place as they are on your existing axle setup. This will keep your rear castor correct.

About moving the shocks. This might also be a good time to move your shocks on the outside of the frame rail. Here is a good write on this mod. http://www.stu-offroad.com/rearshock/rearshock-1.htm
I'm welding the bracketry on prior to the lift while still outside the vehicle. So i don't know exactly what the angle will be. I was hoping to hear from others with a similar setup to get that angle.
As for the control arm mounts: do i have to get them located on the axle perfectly? Also-caster refers to the axis which the steering pivots. should have nothing to do with the rear. right? I've decided to give up on moving the shock mounts. too much trouble! Thanks.
Steve

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post #8 of 10 Old 06-03-2004, 09:24 AM
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http://www.stu-offroad.com/otherwrit.../8.8axle-1.htm

I dont know what writeups you have read but this is the one I used when i did my 8.8 swap. It gives the angles that he used for his swap.

This said, you may or may not nail the angles perfectly. When i did mine I followed the writeup to the T the best I could and the pinion angle ended up being lower than I would ideally want it. I would highly suggest if your lift kit doesn't come with adjustable upper control arms to go pick some up so you can adjust your piniojn angle if you dont get them perfectly when you do your swap.

-DD
Black '98 TJ 4.0 Sport, Teraflex 2.5", JKS 1" BL, Currie 1" MML, Dana 30/Ford 8.8, AA HD SYE, Teraflex QD, Teraflex Oil Pan Skid, Skid Row Steering Box Skid, Poorboy Front & Rear Bumpers (w/ Swingout), JCR Offroad Rocker Guards, Garvin Trail Rack, Borla Header, 305/70/16 BFG MT/KMs, -Go Bruins!
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-03-2004, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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I have read it. its one of the better ones. Do you have to locate the brackets (esp control arm bkts) perfectly? If not, wont you have a hell of the time trying to get the original control arms back on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathdealer
http://www.stu-offroad.com/otherwrit.../8.8axle-1.htm

I dont know what writeups you have read but this is the one I used when i did my 8.8 swap. It gives the angles that he used for his swap.

This said, you may or may not nail the angles perfectly. When i did mine I followed the writeup to the T the best I could and the pinion angle ended up being lower than I would ideally want it. I would highly suggest if your lift kit doesn't come with adjustable upper control arms to go pick some up so you can adjust your piniojn angle if you dont get them perfectly when you do your swap.

Cheers, Steve
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-03-2004, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smunwin
I have read it. its one of the better ones. Do you have to locate the brackets (esp control arm bkts) perfectly? If not, wont you have a hell of the time trying to get the original control arms back on?
Yes you should get it reasonably close, in order for your control arms to line up.

If you ever put a lift on a Jeep you will notice its not really easy to put on control arms even when the mounts werent changed.

-DD
Black '98 TJ 4.0 Sport, Teraflex 2.5", JKS 1" BL, Currie 1" MML, Dana 30/Ford 8.8, AA HD SYE, Teraflex QD, Teraflex Oil Pan Skid, Skid Row Steering Box Skid, Poorboy Front & Rear Bumpers (w/ Swingout), JCR Offroad Rocker Guards, Garvin Trail Rack, Borla Header, 305/70/16 BFG MT/KMs, -Go Bruins!
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