Ford 8.8 Swap - Brake Line Setup - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
grininmonkey
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Ford 8.8 Swap - Brake Line Setup

A good chance the welder will be available to work on my 8.8 today.. I originally had planned to setup the brake lines exactly as ECGS does when using the Artec Truss kit.

I have the Artec Truss Kit and I ordered the brake line kit from ECGS which has the hard lines sized just for what you see in the picture.

But I started thinking about the possibility of doing the back plate swap ( flipping the calipers so they are forward and not aft )

I do not need to do it now, but If I outboard the rear shocks, I will need to.

So the question is.. If I mount the soft/hard brackets where shown in the picture... and I move the calipers forward (back plate swap) then I will need longer caliper soft lines.. but I am not sure if that is wise, or should I get longer hard lines and re-position the hard/soft brackets so the existing caliper lines would work?

Any thoughts on how I could use what I have to route and mount differently than shown in the picture to work for either caliper positions ?

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post #2 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 08:06 AM
jrallen
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I bought the ECGS kit when I built my 8.8 and I really wished I hadn't. I ended up using the soft lines, but other than that probably only $3 of parts. I had to modify the mounting tabs to make them work and the hard lines weren't long enough. I flipped the calipers side for side, but they wouldn't have been long enough if I left them in their factory locations anyways. It just seemed like a waste of $60 to me but I didn't know that until months after I bought the kit I ran my soft lines in front of the axle to leave as much room as possible for shock brackets in the future. From there, I ran a pre-flared hard line from the parts house up the truss and out of harms way then into the brake line lock that came off of the 35. Because of the truss, you can't mount the breather through the brake line block, so I drilled a hole through the truss, welded a bolt in through the bottom, and put a nut on top of the block. I took the breather to the Homeless Despot and found a nut of the same thread pitch, and drilled a hole in the front of the axle tube just under the brake line block and welded the nut in place and screwed in the breather. My breather hose is about 6" short of making it to the factory location near the gas tank filler, but that will have to wait until later.
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post #3 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 08:08 AM
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Here's how mine's routed.

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post #4 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrallen View Post
I bought the ECGS kit when I built my 8.8 and I really wished I hadn't. I ended up using the soft lines, but other than that probably only $3 of parts. I had to modify the mounting tabs to make them work and the hard lines weren't long enough. I flipped the calipers side for side, but they wouldn't have been long enough if I left them in their factory locations anyways. It just seemed like a waste of $60 to me but I didn't know that until months after I bought the kit I ran my soft lines in front of the axle to leave as much room as possible for shock brackets in the future. From there, I ran a pre-flared hard line from the parts house up the truss and out of harms way then into the brake line lock that came off of the 35. Because of the truss, you can't mount the breather through the brake line block, so I drilled a hole through the truss, welded a bolt in through the bottom, and put a nut on top of the block. I took the breather to the Homeless Despot and found a nut of the same thread pitch, and drilled a hole in the front of the axle tube just under the brake line block and welded the nut in place and screwed in the breather. My breather hose is about 6" short of making it to the factory location near the gas tank filler, but that will have to wait until later.

Yeah, to be honest, brake lines where the last thing on my mind when I started this project... kinda wish I did more research before buying the kit. I was thinking about just mounting the to brackets at a 45* angle near the outer edge of the spring perch. I think that location would allow the caliper soft line to reach the caliper in either position. Still use the same location on the truss for the T-Block... but like you said, go and get longer hard lines and find something to work with my desired bracket location?


Didn't feel like photoshop`in so in red (but imagine rotated a bit) is my "Paint" illustration.
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post #5 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Here's how mine's routed.


Humm... perhaps I should just flip from the start. Just didn't want to spend another $65 bucks ( Black Magic emergency brake bracket )... but I guess why not...

Anyway... Did you just weld a vertical tab and drilled a hole for a bolt to secure the T-Block ?
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post #6 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
Anyway... Did you just weld a vertical tab and drilled a hole for a bolt to secure the T-Block ?
Yep.
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post #7 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Yep.
I think I am going to do what you did, but just have two questions that came to mind when looking at your picture...


With the T-Block mounted like that and the supply line pointing up, is there any potential issue of a bend/bind when fully stuffed?

And did you find any potential issue with the lower control arms putting a squeeze on the caliper lines at full drop?
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post #8 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
I think I am going to do what you did, but just have two questions that came to mind when looking at your picture...


With the T-Block mounted like that and the supply line pointing up, is there any potential issue of a bend/bind when fully stuffed?

And did you find any potential issue with the lower control arms putting a squeeze on the caliper lines at full drop?
Good eye.
Nope, the TB mount is much higher, it almost hits. That line is zip tied to the side of the arm, so at no point is it proud of the top of it.
The radius I've got the soft line bent at probably isn't ideal, but I was trying to avoid the pinch you're talking about.
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post #9 of 30 Old 02-10-2016, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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I think I would be doing myself a favor if I went ahead and did what you did... if anything, I will be making it future ready and save some headache if and when I outboard. Its one of those things that I say I would like to do... but just not pushing for yet. My rear end project is already costing more than I would like :/
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post #10 of 30 Old 02-11-2016, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Good eye.
Nope, the TB mount is much higher, it almost hits. That line is zip tied to the side of the arm, so at no point is it proud of the top of it.
The radius I've got the soft line bent at probably isn't ideal, but I was trying to avoid the pinch you're talking about.
Finished up welding yesterday. I temp mounted a back plate with caliper forward and tried to determine where the hard/soft line bracket would go. I couldn't see the exact location used in your pictures, but this is what I did and appears (until I actually go to fitting it all together) like a good spot.

Im worried I place the vent at too sharp an angle that might have a clearance issue with the sway bar... want know until its under and not in the back of the Jeep.
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post #11 of 30 Old 02-11-2016, 08:58 AM
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Oh, yeah, I didn't put a rear sway on mine, I had a rare swayless TJ, it'll get an antirock someday.
If you look at my pic the banjo bolt really screws up the routing, the soft line block keys onto the caliper in such a way that it sticks straight out.
I think you're on the right track though, maybe notch the sway bracket for the line and put some way to mount it there, I just used little clips and cut 1/4-20 threads into the 1/4" plate.
Here's a couple more pics sorry they kinda suck
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...C7E5F5C6C1.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...C7EE2FB3F1.jpg
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post #12 of 30 Old 02-11-2016, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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The only reason I have the Hard/Soft bracket where it is, was due to what I saw as a potential issue of bending on the end of the soft line. The soft line and its solid connector section ends just before it reaches the lower control arm bracket. While I had the back plate and caliper on, I was bending and playing and that seemed to be the least stressful location. But like you said, it sure puts a hard bend on the caliper side.
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post #13 of 30 Old 02-11-2016, 09:43 AM
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I'll take a picture of where my vent is compared to the sway bar in an hour or two. I can promise you that mounting the t-block flat on top of the truss will not allow the soft line to bind at full bump.
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post #14 of 30 Old 02-11-2016, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jrallen View Post
I'll take a picture of where my vent is compared to the sway bar in an hour or two. I can promise you that mounting the t-block flat on top of the truss will not allow the soft line to bind at full bump.
That would be great! Thanks! I just finished up painting... one step closer.
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post #15 of 30 Old 02-11-2016, 06:52 PM
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Sorry for the wait. In no particular order:
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