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Rampage Bowless Soft Top Oconee offroadAlloy USA Still AvailableAdvance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 07-16-2012, 09:25 PM   #46
freeskier93
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Rear axle = success. Well, at least so far so good.

Friday worked on the brakes, had to modify the calipers so I could position the soft lines exactly how I wanted them. Just had to cut off the indexing tabs.





Made these to hold the soft lines onto the axle.







Don't have a pic, but for the hard brake lines I went and bought pre made lengths of brake line from Advance Auto. Already flared and with fittings, simple to bend with your thumbs.

Saturday, removed D35, good riddance.





Put the 8.8 in for a test fit.





Everything looked great. Clearances were great, way better than I was expecting. Only thing was we noted the shock mounts were on the wrong sides. No problem, they are only tacked on. Unfortunately though after welding everything up the shock mounts were still on the wrong sides. Problem was because the shock mounts and control arm mounts are so close I had welded up the shock mounts first to get both sides them welded up the control arm mounts. So to fix the shock mounts I had also had to cut the control arm mounts off. Took about an hour but I did get it all fixed.

Here's some of the welding



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Unread 07-16-2012, 09:27 PM   #47
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Sunday

This should have been an easy day, throw gears in, double check everything, put axle in, button up. Of course things immediately went south. When I put the preload spacer/shims on the pinion I put the shims between the shoulder on the pinion and spacer, not on top of the spacer. When I put it in and torqued it down it messed the shims up and shot the preload up. The shoulder on the pinion isn't flat, is is slightly convex.





I couldn't get the right thickness with the shims I had, but luckily I had the crush sleeve from the install kit. Waste of 15$ on the spacer kit but oh well. Anyway went to install crush sleeve, crushed it to much. Spent the next 2 hours driving around trying to find a crush sleeve, which was eventually found at a Napa out of town (up in Berthoud). Finally got home and got the gears sorted out. Backlash was still good (.010") and pattern still looked good. Torqued cap bolts down clearanced the pumpkin for the sway bar, and threw it under the Jeep.





I went and rented a slide hammer from Advance Auto and at this point got the old bearings/seals removed. Went to go pound in the new ones.... uh oh they were way to small. Ran to Napa and picked up the right ones for 60$. After that I put the parking brake stuff on and put the shafts in.





Rotors and calipers went on, tires went on, put jeep on its own weight, tightened everything down, filled the diff with fluid, and took it for a drive. Not very surprising there is a pretty bad driveline vibration, so an SYE is in my very near future. However I've got less than a month until college starts, at which point I'll be leaving the Jeep at home (to cheap to pay for parking) so it will pretty much sit all winter. The SYE will probably be a winter project.

The new gears are amazing. Dead silent. I would highly recommend Nitro gears and def. shoot for the low end on backlash. Totally having to change the way I drive because my shift points are completely different. First gear will wind the engine up to 3k RPM very quickly, cruising is great. There is a noticeable difference with disk brakes in the back, not so much quicker stopping, but the pedal feels firmer and more consistent. Braking is better though in reverse.

Next the front axle.
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Unread 07-16-2012, 09:28 PM   #48
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Bonus pictures.











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Unread 07-16-2012, 10:06 PM   #49
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Very nice work.
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Unread 07-17-2012, 05:17 PM   #50
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Good stuff!!! Just finished my 8.8... Did you use wheel spacers? I had to because my wheels were rubbing without.
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Unread 07-17-2012, 06:02 PM   #51
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Thanks a ton for this write-up! I was lucky enough to get an 8.8 with the brackets already gone. The Artec truss looks like quite the ordeal so this should get interesting for me.
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Unread 07-17-2012, 07:33 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by SonicR1 View Post
Good stuff!!! Just finished my 8.8... Did you use wheel spacers? I had to because my wheels were rubbing without.
Nope, no spacers. The Artec truss has two positions for the track bar, I put it on the top one which seems to have centered the axle perfectly with 2" of lift and the stock track bar.
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Unread 07-20-2012, 08:48 AM   #53
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Oooops, I meant the wheels were rubbing on the calipers… I have never heard of that issue before, I don't remember my backspacing, but I thought it was a typical 3.5" or 4" on an 8" wheel… anyway, it doesn't seem you have that issue either.
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Unread 07-20-2012, 09:48 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post

Today I got as far as I could on the HP30 as I don't have the correct socket sizes for the pinion nut and ball joints. I didn't get an axle with both shafts as virtually every XJ at the junkyard has a missing long side shaft. I had to really beat the hell out of the short side to get the shaft/unit bearing off.

Next time, try this assuming you can turn the wheel (MrBlaine's trick)



Your Jeep is coming along nicely
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Unread 07-20-2012, 03:42 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicR1 View Post
Oooops, I meant the wheels were rubbing on the calipers… I have never heard of that issue before, I don't remember my backspacing, but I thought it was a typical 3.5" or 4" on an 8" wheel… anyway, it doesn't seem you have that issue either.
Hmm, yeah, not sure I've heard of that issue before. I have no idea what brand my wheels even are let alone backspacing, so I guess I got lucky.

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Next time, try this assuming you can turn the wheel (MrBlaine's trick)



Your Jeep is coming along nicely
I remembered seeing that trick, but it's not very useful when the axle is off the vehicle. I'll remember to use it when I pop out the shafts from the old axle while still on the Jeep.
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Unread 07-22-2012, 06:15 PM   #56
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No rest for the weary. Busted out the front axle this weekend, went a lot better as I knew what I was doing!

Went and got the sockets I needed. Pinion nut is 1 1/8". Got the pinion pulled out and found this guy.



Hmmm, not sure exactly what it was but looked like some kind of baffle. Quick internet search confirms this. For the high pinion this is a very important piece as helps keep oil in the pinion bearings. Another thing about the Dana 30 is the oil slinger that sits between the pinion head and inner bearing. Some people ditch it, however being a high pinion axle I didn't want to ditch anything. The new slinger that came with the install kit was .030" compared to the .060" of the old one, so I wasn't worried about to much shim.

Next I popped the inner seals out, pretty simple, just found a washer that was the right diameter and using the handle to my high lift I hammered them out.







I got a total of .080" for pinion shims, that's including the slinger and baffle. The new baffle that came with my install kit was .020" (just like the old one) and the new slinger was .030", so I added .030" in shims so I could start the new gears at .080". For the carrier I didn't want to waste my time cutting the bearings off the old carrier so I just kept adding equal shims on the carrier until it was tight.

First pattern with .080" under the pinion and backlash of .008".





To far away so I added .005" and checked again.





To close now. Swapped the .005" shim for a .003" shim and tried again.



(Missing the drive side pic, but it looks the same, just on the drive side )

Perfect! Added some shims to the carrier to increase preload and pressed new bearings on. Now the most nerve-racking part, how much did backlash change with the new bearings. Luckily it only increased .001" to .009", still in spec. That's as far as I got today as when I went to button it all up I put the new pinion seal on before the bearings and thrust washer, so I need to go get a new seal. I'll get it together tomorrow.
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Unread 07-23-2012, 12:47 AM   #57
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Awesome thread. Where did you get the pinion yoke tool for $18? Im trying to order it but only finding it for $30. Also was this your first regear?
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Unread 08-05-2012, 08:02 PM   #58
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Awesome thread. Where did you get the pinion yoke tool for $18? Im trying to order it but only finding it for $30. Also was this your first regear?
Sorry I didn't respond to you. I don't know if you found something, but I would look at ECGS. They have a holder tool that might work, but it's 60$. Otherwise I'm not sure where to get one that will work without modification on the 8.8 flange.

Also this weekend I started swapping in the HP 30. Went good until this afternoon when I went to replace the wheel joints. Those ****ers were so rusted on. After 100k+ miles on the original joints the only thing that got them out was the 12 ton press. Which bent the ears. Bent the ear on the inner drivers side shaft from my original d30 and extra shaft I got from the HP 30. So instead of messing with the other shafts I said screw it and ordered some new shafts. Nitro chromoly shafts, 27 spline inners. I'll try to fix my old shafts later and use them as spares.

Some pics from yesterday.



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Unread 08-20-2012, 01:36 AM   #59
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Dude you are the man, great work on this ambitious project. I'm going to be running the same setup as you but will have to leave most of the work to the pros at ECGS. Your writeup and pics have still been insanely helpful for making sure I have all bases covered. Hope you've been able to finish before school starts. Good luck at CU, I got denied for their PhD program and went to ASU instead! Thanks again for the thread.
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Unread 11-25-2012, 06:07 PM   #60
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Great thread man! I just bought a TJ with an 8.8 and it doesn't have the parking brake hooked up. What do I need to make that happen? Just a ZJ cable? Any specific parts needed on the 8.8 end of things?
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