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#16 | ||
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I would think removing the side hinges, and throwing some on the bottom, like you would if you were using a CJ tailgate, would work, wouldn't it??? and you'd have a TJ tailgate, CJ style... obviously, since you wouldn't change out the tailgate, you'd still have the same locking mech.
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2004 TJ 1978 CJ5 |
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#17 | |
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Lifted/Locked/Rolled/Sunk
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I need a 35" tire for spare. PM me if you have something. My Hummer Hole video SIRA 4x4 club I'll be Savvy someday!
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#18 | |
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Would a CJ5 tailgate work??? These seem pretty cool
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2006 Jeep Wrangler---SOLD! Nowhere at present is there such a measureless loathing of their country by educated people as in America. --Eric Hoffer Quote:
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#19 |
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I am sure anyone that has ever been camping or to a bonfire has wished they could pull their jeep up to the fire and fold down the tailgate and sit by the fire.
Not sure I'd want to do that having 15 gallons of fuel under my butt. J/K... I have also wondered about this, as I do a lot of camping. Having a quick and flat "mini work space" would be great. I wish there was an easier way. |
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#20 |
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Two things...... What is keeping us from using the same TJ tailgate? Next, looking at some of them, they don't look like they could hold enough weight to hold a person's weight. Anyone had any issues with that?
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Currently: 2010 Wrangler Sport Past vehicles: 1992 YJ 1997 TJ |
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#21 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 4,794
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Definitely a project I want to do after the swing-out bumper.
I want to take a CJ style tailgate but use a little fabrication to put in a Porsche Cayenne style rubber press-switch tied up to electronic bearclaw latches. If I get that right I'd probably re-work the bumper to have the same latch / handle on it too. |
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#22 | |
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,905
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No matter, I converted to the fold down gate and hated it. As cool as it sounds on the face, it's a real pita to lean over it to get anything out of the back of the jeep. And, the gate's strength is not the issue. The weak point is the hinges. They bend real easily if you try and sit on the gate.
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I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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#23 | |
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#24 |
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BINGO!!
here it is for u.... WITH a write up! http://www.savagesun4x4.com/cj_to_tj_tailgate_install.html ![]() hope it helps... and "hopefully" i can get around to doing it this summer, along with everything else ![]() |
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#25 | |
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there's limitless possibilities...we're talking about JEEPS here. ![]()
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2004 TJ 1978 CJ5 |
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#26 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 4,794
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As for functionality, yeah leaning over the drop-down section can be a bit of a pain, but the benefit is you get a CLEAN work surface. Dropping down the tailgate means you're not going near the dusty or muddy bumper. This is the reason Range Rovers, a luxury car, always had drop down split tailgates. The reach forwards isn't such a concern to me because I've got plans for a mid-wall enclosure for subwoofer, amps, fire extinguisher, 12V cooler etc. that will make my luggage compartment shorter. |
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#27 |
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Some Call me RockDog
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I plan on doing this after I do a swing out tire carrier.
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Stretched TJ Future, Coil overs, 40s, 60/14 bolt My Build Thread. www.kifourwheelers.com www.indyorv.com For Sale: TJ 44 Combo, 4.88s, detroit, Alloy USA shafts, Disc Brakes, HD lower mounts, Clayton tube Truss 35" procomp tires with Aluminum wheels $650 (4) 5x4.5 steel beadlocks $200 3 11"& 2 13" BBCS shocks Ford Dana 60 Rear $150 Big Daddy Offroad HD tie Rod (4) 15x8 5x4.5 TJ, YJ, XJ, etc bolt pattern Aluminum wheels $175 |
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#28 | |||
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Stupid is as Stupid does
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#29 | |
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C/O JeepNazi Here are several things i found, remember with no external latch, getting in and out can be tricky sometimes depending on the situation. http://www.jeepshots.com/tech/tailgate.html http://destructive101.tripod.com/id9.html When you get your new tailgate there are several things you will want to try to make sure that you have (will make life easier later on). 1. the turn latches 2. cables and bolts along with spring washers (trust me when you see them you will know what I am talking about) 3. hinges, (make note of which way is top and bottom, will help with lining them up in the future) First thing to do is to remove the stock tailgate. There are the 4 bolts that mount to the Passenger side of the tub. If you have problems with the bolts not turning or the torx heads being damaged, take a 3/8th drill bit and drill of the head of the bolt and once the hinges are removed you can then take the entire tailgate assembly off. Now to the bracketry for the tailgate.( since this is actually in the tub you can leave this if you wish. There are a few bolts inside the Bed area of the Jeep and there is the bracket on top of the fender. Of course now there is also the latching mechanism on the driver side now to deal with, it is pretty self explanatory. There are several small torx screws to be removed and then there you go. One tailgate less YJ. Now to line up the new tailgate, you do have one right. Once you have it set into place mark where to drill for your hinge bolts Now as you can tell in when I did the install I had a 3in body lift and I still had to remove the last 2 sets of body mounting bolts and lift up on the rear of the Jeep to reach in and get the new bolts through. I considered putting the bolts in the same directions as the OEM bolts but it was hard enough getting the bolts and washer through the hole and get the washers lock washers and nuts on the bolts. I use the largest washers I could get at Lowe's (don't like Home Depot any more) In order to insure that there will not be any pull through. Also, make sure you put the rounded side of the washer against the tub or the sharp edge will cut a hole in the tub in later on in the future. Now to discuss mounting of the cables, here is what I did. I picked this location because it allows for the cable to have plenty of sag room and put the tailgate level when let down all the way. For latching, I was not able to find any stock CJ latching locations so I improvised. I took a small L bracket and then bent the end over to allow secure latching ----------------- You still need hinges, gasket, (Quadratec or Chrysler) and some fabrication. I built nut plates larger than the hinge flange for attaching the hinges to the lower panel on the tub. I dropped the gas tank and used a hole saw just bigger than the nut plate height and chopped an access hole in the inside lower cavity wall. This allowed us to slide the nut plates into the cavity to attach the hinges. I looked at alot of pictures of CJ's for the attachment of the cables to the tub. The rear wells have morphed over the years. I tried to go to the fender well but the angle of the cables was not steep enough to adeqately put the hinge tub bolts in shear when a load was put on the gate. The tub took too much load and flexed inward. To correct this we modified the stock TJ gate closure bracket bolted to the drivers side fender well. I removed the closure pin and had a nut welded on the back of the bracket then reinstalled the bracket in the factory location. I purchased another bracket from Chrysler and hacked it up to match the location of the driver side relative to the taligate. We built nut plates for that bracket and installed them thru the tail light hole in the tub. In the pictures below notice the small steel blocks attached to the tub walls above the brackets. This is what the latch, latches against and do not come from Q. These would be best if done in stainless. Paint, decals, and stainless latch blocks left to go. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"Professional Driver on a Closed Course"
http://offroadiowa.com/ http://www.4x4syndicate.com/ i has a kool buggy |
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IX-X-XIII-XIV-XL-XLIII
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: San Juan Capistrano, CA
Posts: 2,979
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-Bob '98 Black TJ Sport 4.0L/Auto Trans -(O|||||||O)- my rig: http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a95/steelman_d/Wheelin/DSC06310.jpg _____________________________________________ Quote:
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