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Unread 11-04-2009, 08:36 AM   #1
jeep-rambler
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Flat-towing a TJ behind an RV...

I'm a total novice to this, so please be kind...

I'd like to flat-tow my 2006 TJ (6-speed manual) behind an RV. A number of questions arise:

- do I use curb weight or GVW when determining whether an RV can tow the Jeep?

- what kind of towing bracket or frame do I need on both ends (RV and Jeep) to do this?

- how do I set everything up such that the brakes on the RV activate the brake lights on the Jeep?

- do both the transfer case and tranny have to be in N, or just the tranny?

- any other mechanical considerations, or steps I should to to prepare the Jeep for being flat-towed before each towing session?

Sorry if this is a lot of basic information, but I've not been able to find concise answers elsewhere...

Thanks in advance!

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Unread 11-04-2009, 09:01 AM   #2
06rubicon
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Use curb wt for calculations.
Many options for hitches...use search function and check with jeep parts suppliers.
I used an extra set of bulbs inside the factory tail lights and new wires to the front of the Jeep...but you can purchase many different kits.

VERY IMPORTANT! TRANSFER CASE IN NEUTRAL AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN GEAR 2nd or 4th is recommended in the Manual.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 09:18 AM   #3
Rjsimms
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As 08rubicon said use curb wt. Also, read the owners manual. It has all the info for "recreational towing" I too used the extra bulb's in the tail lights for lighting. Here is a couple of links for information on tow bars and adapter plates. The first one is a RV forum that has all kinds of information. The second is a retailer that has most of the equipment you would need. I highly recomment the retailer. Motorhome Magazine Open Roads Forum. ReadyBrake Supplemental Brake System for Towed Vehicles - Night Shift Auto
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Unread 11-04-2009, 09:35 AM   #4
LandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06rubicon View Post
VERY IMPORTANT! TRANSFER CASE IN NEUTRAL AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN GEAR 2nd or 4th is recommended in the Manual.
Pay attention to this.

On a side note Ive never heard of some gears being recommended over others while being towed?
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Unread 11-04-2009, 09:49 AM   #5
dzride
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+1 on curb weight, check with your RV transition manufacture, what is the total towing capacity on it and go from there. Also check your tow hitch it should be 5000+ lb.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 10:29 AM   #6
sylgeist
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Optimally you would just disconnect the front and rear driveshaft and save the wear and tear on the drivetrain.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 10:32 AM   #7
champelite210
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Most people put it in 1st gear. Then put the transfercase in nuetral. Your set to go.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 10:32 AM   #8
OldFatGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandoCommando View Post
Pay attention to this.

On a side note Ive never heard of some gears being recommended over others while being towed?
I use 5th gear on mine (5-speed) because it's enough to keep the transmission from spinning but it wouldn't lock up the wheels if the transfer case were to somehow slip into gear.

For the lights, I installed a kit from Blue Ox to use my regular tail light bulbs. I installed a female trailer plug in my front bumper and made a harness that stays on my homemade towbar and connects my motorhome connector to the one on my front bumper.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 12:38 PM   #9
rideraa
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another note for you ... check the GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating) most modern vehicles have this ... this is a max rating for the total weight of your RV & towed vehicle/trailer ... Most accurate why to find this total would be to load your RV up to travel conditions (fuel water gear food etc) and weight it ... also weight the Jeep, together that total would be the GCVW ... The GCVWR is provided by the RV chassis mfg. Also look there maybe a different amounts for towed vehicles/trailers with & without brakes. (Sometimes it may simply say any towed item of X amount or above must have brakes)

Last edited by rideraa; 06-10-2010 at 07:17 AM..
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Unread 11-04-2009, 01:59 PM   #10
LSU_TJ
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One other thing. DO NOT forget to leave the key in the ignition and in the first (acc) position turning key forward. This unlocks the steering wheel. Then TC in neutral. That's it.

I use this for my tow bar.

Hidden Hitch 63180 - Hidden Hitch Adjustable 5,000lb Tow Bar - Quadratec

Here is my setup.



I made some custom brackets that convert the tow bar to attach to the D-ring mounts on my bumper so I did not have to drill new holes or attach any new brackets. The tow bar comes with brackets that will need to be bolted to your bumper.

You can use one of the earlier referrenced BlueOx kits to install new wiring for use of original tail lights or you can use one of these kits.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Very easy to flat tow.




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Unread 11-05-2009, 03:45 PM   #11
Axle71
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Although I am fairly new to flat towing I want to add a few things to this post.

I tow my LJ behind my truck camper (Chevy 2500HD D/A) using a Roadmaster 5000 tow bar and RM 1424-1 brackets. I previously used a RM 1415-1 bracket until I located a set of 1424-1 brackets. Both bracket styles worked fine on my 2005 LJ. My truck has a Torklift receiver hitch with a 21" extension. I have never felt the need to have any kind of brake assist on the Jeep. But I realize that different states have diffrent rules regarding this.

I have been using magnetic tow lights so far. I just picked up some RM diodes that I will be wiring into the Jeep's wiring harness next week.

When I tow the Jeep I put both the transfer case and the 6 spd manual transmission in neutral. I have read the part in the owner's manual about putting the manual transmission into gear to make sure that the TC is in neutral. The owner's manual does not specifiy a specific gear. The procedure as written in the owner's manual makes it sound as if this step is only a double check to ensure the TC is in neutral before you take off towing.

It seems to me that if the TC is in neutral than there will be no significant rotational action transferred to the transmission as the Jeep is towed. So, what difference does it make what position the manual transmission is put into? And for automatics, why should it be flat towed in park?

What is the deal with this anyway?

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Unread 11-05-2009, 04:50 PM   #12
06rubicon
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I have seen the aftermath of an automatic towed with both the transfercase and transmission in neutral...It was ugly...the trans got so hot that another motorist flagged down the RV driver (my boss) because he thought the jeep was on fire. You could smell the burnt ATF from 50 feet away. The transmission was not rebuildable and needed to be replaced. A Manual transmission would most likely not be hurt but I would bet the output shaft is spinning.
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Unread 11-05-2009, 09:16 PM   #13
TJDaveX
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Roadmaster removable frame mounted brackets & towbar. Magnet lights on rear bumper. Transfer case in "N", tranny in "P". First click forward on ignition (steering wheel unlocked, no power drain) 5-6 second minimum following distance. (no aux. brakes)


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Unread 11-05-2009, 10:05 PM   #14
BARKDOG67
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I have a automatic and just towed mine on a 700 mile trip a few months ago, I just removed the rear drive shaft its easy and took five minutes to do. but mine was on a tow dolly with only the rear wheels rolling you could remove the front shaft also tag on an extra five minutes and your for certain not to screw up anything along the trip.
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Unread 11-05-2009, 10:15 PM   #15
OCMerrill
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I did quite a bit of Flat Towing as well.

I used a Sterling Tow bar and brackets by Roadmaster. I also used a Brake Buddy as well most of the time but I have to say the thing was pretty useless. Just an opinion.


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