Use curb wt for calculations.
Many options for hitches...use search function and check with jeep parts suppliers.
I used an extra set of bulbs inside the factory tail lights and new wires to the front of the Jeep...but you can purchase many different kits.
VERY IMPORTANT! TRANSFER CASE IN NEUTRAL AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN GEAR 2nd or 4th is recommended in the Manual.
Most people put it in 1st gear. Then put the transfercase in nuetral. Your set to go.
1998 TJ, 4.0 HO, 5 speed, 3.5" RE Super Flex Adj SA lift, AA SYE, Currie steering, 4.88 Gears, 8.8 Rear with Eaton E-Locker, HP Dana 30 with Detroit locker and chromoly shafts, 36x12.5x15 TSL-SX, TNT Customs front 3.5 fenders, XRC rear crusher corners with 3.5 flare, A to Z rock sliders, PSC steering pump PSC steering Bx, XRC 8000 winch.
On a side note Ive never heard of some gears being recommended over others while being towed?
I use 5th gear on mine (5-speed) because it's enough to keep the transmission from spinning but it wouldn't lock up the wheels if the transfer case were to somehow slip into gear.
For the lights, I installed a kit from Blue Ox to use my regular tail light bulbs. I installed a female trailer plug in my front bumper and made a harness that stays on my homemade towbar and connects my motorhome connector to the one on my front bumper.
another note for you ... check the GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating) most modern vehicles have this ... this is a max rating for the total weight of your RV & towed vehicle/trailer ... Most accurate why to find this total would be to load your RV up to travel conditions (fuel water gear food etc) and weight it ... also weight the Jeep, together that total would be the GCVW ... The GCVWR is provided by the RV chassis mfg. Also look there maybe a different amounts for towed vehicles/trailers with & without brakes. (Sometimes it may simply say any towed item of X amount or above must have brakes)
I made some custom brackets that convert the tow bar to attach to the D-ring mounts on my bumper so I did not have to drill new holes or attach any new brackets. The tow bar comes with brackets that will need to be bolted to your bumper.
You can use one of the earlier referrenced BlueOx kits to install new wiring for use of original tail lights or you can use one of these kits.
Although I am fairly new to flat towing I want to add a few things to this post.
I tow my LJ behind my truck camper (Chevy 2500HD D/A) using a Roadmaster 5000 tow bar and RM 1424-1 brackets. I previously used a RM 1415-1 bracket until I located a set of 1424-1 brackets. Both bracket styles worked fine on my 2005 LJ. My truck has a Torklift receiver hitch with a 21" extension. I have never felt the need to have any kind of brake assist on the Jeep. But I realize that different states have diffrent rules regarding this.
I have been using magnetic tow lights so far. I just picked up some RM diodes that I will be wiring into the Jeep's wiring harness next week.
When I tow the Jeep I put both the transfer case and the 6 spd manual transmission in neutral. I have read the part in the owner's manual about putting the manual transmission into gear to make sure that the TC is in neutral. The owner's manual does not specifiy a specific gear. The procedure as written in the owner's manual makes it sound as if this step is only a double check to ensure the TC is in neutral before you take off towing.
It seems to me that if the TC is in neutral than there will be no significant rotational action transferred to the transmission as the Jeep is towed. So, what difference does it make what position the manual transmission is put into? And for automatics, why should it be flat towed in park?
I have seen the aftermath of an automatic towed with both the transfercase and transmission in neutral...It was ugly...the trans got so hot that another motorist flagged down the RV driver (my boss) because he thought the jeep was on fire. You could smell the burnt ATF from 50 feet away. The transmission was not rebuildable and needed to be replaced. A Manual transmission would most likely not be hurt but I would bet the output shaft is spinning.
Roadmaster removable frame mounted brackets & towbar. Magnet lights on rear bumper. Transfer case in "N", tranny in "P". First click forward on ignition (steering wheel unlocked, no power drain) 5-6 second minimum following distance. (no aux. brakes)
I have a automatic and just towed mine on a 700 mile trip a few months ago, I just removed the rear drive shaft its easy and took five minutes to do. but mine was on a tow dolly with only the rear wheels rolling you could remove the front shaft also tag on an extra five minutes and your for certain not to screw up anything along the trip.