Fitting a Savvy 1.25" body lift & GTS - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
stadleroux
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Fitting a Savvy 1.25" body lift & GTS

OK, as mentioned in the "What did you do..." thread, I received my Savvy body lift & GTS yesterday, but I have several questions, so I thought I should rather start a new thread about it.

For now I'd just like to make sure that I've received the correct number of parts, and hex cap screws in particular. The installation instructions on their site say I should've received 4 each 1/4" - 1-1/2" & 1/4" x 2" Hex Cap Screws. I count that as 8 in total, but there were only 4 in the packet of small parts, 2 short and 2 long, and the short ones already seem like 2" long to me, so what are the even longer ones for!? I can also see that I would only need two of either for attaching the two sets of straps over the tank, so is that a mistake in the instructions or are the other hex cap screws used elsewhere in the fitting process?? Then I should go out and try and find similar ones, I guess...


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post #2 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by stadleroux View Post
OK, as mentioned in the "What did you do..." thread, I received my Savvy body lift & GTS yesterday, but I have several questions, so I thought I should rather start a new thread about it.

For now I'd just like to make sure that I've received the correct number of parts, and hex cap screws in particular. The installation instructions on their site say I should've received 4 each 1/4" - 1-1/2" & 1/4" x 2" Hex Cap Screws. I count that as 8 in total, but there were only 4 in the packet of small parts, 2 short and 2 long, and the short ones already seem like 2" long to me, so what are the even longer ones for!? I can also see that I would only need two of either for attaching the two sets of straps over the tank, so is that a mistake in the instructions or are the other hex cap screws used elsewhere in the fitting process?? Then I should go out and try and find similar ones, I guess...
They are not hex cap screws, they are Allen Head Cap Screws. The reason you have 4 of them, 2 of each length is the TJ gas tank varies from year to year and rig to rig in overall height up from the bottom of the skid. Also why there are 2 square holes in the end of each strap. You can mount them both down, both up, or one up and one down and then be assured that you have a screw that is long enough to reach the threaded cross barrel and retain the tank.

The obvious solution is to provide one pair of the longer versions but that length Allen Head Cap Screw is not readily available as a tap screw (fully threaded).

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post #3 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
They are not hex cap screws, they are Allen Head Cap Screws. The reason you have 4 of them, 2 of each length is the TJ gas tank varies from year to year and rig to rig in overall height up from the bottom of the skid. Also why there are 2 square holes in the end of each strap. You can mount them both down, both up, or one up and one down and then be assured that you have a screw that is long enough to reach the threaded cross barrel and retain the tank.

The obvious solution is to provide one pair of the longer versions but that length Allen Head Cap Screw is not readily available as a tap screw (fully threaded).
Thank you very much, mrblaine, I thought the different lengths might just be for different year models, so then I will only need 2 of the 4. Now I just have to go and buy an imperial or Metrinch-type 5/16" socket! Fortunately I already have the 5/8" and 3/4" ones that will be needed for the body lift.

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post #4 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by stadleroux View Post
Thank you very much, mrblaine, I thought the different lengths might just be for different year models, so then I will only need 2 of the 4. Now I just have to go and buy an imperial or Metrinch-type 5/16" socket! Fortunately I already have the 5/8" and 3/4" ones that will be needed for the body lift.
I'm not sure what's available where you're at, but I suggest buying an entire rail of sockets in metric and standard (it's only a matter of time when working on your Jeep that you'll use all of them). You'll also want a set of hex keys in metric and standard, and a full set of Torx bits up to T55 (The rollcage however is security T55). 3/8" sockets is the size that I find best for the Jeep. Rarely do I use 1/4" or 1/2" sockets except for impact. You can probably wait on a set of wrenches, but once you do a set that ratchets and a set of standard box ends in both metric and standard are great too!


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post #5 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 08:31 AM
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Congrats on the savvy, you'll love it.

X2 on the metric and standard sockets. I have a socket set with both and have used every single one throughout the years on all my vehicles.
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post #6 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what's available where you're at, but I suggest buying an entire rail of sockets in metric and standard (it's only a matter of time when working on your Jeep that you'll use all of them). You'll also want a set of hex keys in metric and standard, and a full set of Torx bits up to T55 (The rollcage however is security T55). 3/8" sockets is the size that I find best for the Jeep. Rarely do I use 1/4" or 1/2" sockets except for impact. You can probably wait on a set of wrenches, but once you do a set that ratchets and a set of standard box ends in both metric and standard are great too!
Thank you, I started out way back when I got my first car with a small set of wrenches, but since then I'd always bought single sockets as and when I needed them, although I couldn't resist buying a small set of stubby wrenches and another of ratcheting wrenches recently. But you're right, maybe it's time I invested in a proper set of metric and imperial. My brother has a nice set of Crescent Tools that he'd won in a lucky draw, would you believe it...

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post #7 of 50 Old 10-06-2017, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, and I already have the set of torx bits - two sets, in fact, because I first bought a set of loose bits with one socket adapter, but when I saw a set of bits with socket adapters fixed onto each bit a year or so later I just had to have it! My brother also gave me a nice set of metric and imperial Allen keys a year or so ago, so I'm sorted on those two counts.

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post #8 of 50 Old 10-08-2017, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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What can I use to ream out three of the outside corner holes for the carriage bolts? They're misaligned by about half a bolt diameter. I haven't tried anything yet, but I guess I could try a drill bit or otherwise some attachment on my dremel tool?

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post #9 of 50 Old 10-08-2017, 05:32 AM
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What can I use to ream out three of the outside corner holes for the carriage bolts? They're misaligned by about half a bolt diameter. I haven't tried anything yet, but I guess I could try a drill bit or otherwise some attachment on my dremel tool?
If you haven't already, try loosely bolting in the front first and then lift up the rear. Or else I wonder if your frame is bent? It'll be a bit of work but a rasp or file will keep the square hole.


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post #10 of 50 Old 10-08-2017, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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If you haven't already, try loosely bolting in the front first and then lift up the rear. Or else I wonder if your frame is bent? It'll be a bit of work but a rasp or file will keep the square hole.
No, you're too far ahead of me; I'm talking about the holes on the ends of the skid walls to which you attach the flanges. I'm taking this really slow. Yesterday I went looking for a 1/2" socket and picked up my trolley jack and one jack stand from my brother's place. Today I'm trying to get those holes aligned, but I must say I don't know if they're critical or not. Just my OCD nature that wants every bolt in every hole like they should be... But you're right, a round steel file would probably also do the trick!

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post #11 of 50 Old 10-08-2017, 06:10 AM
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No, you're too far ahead of me; I'm talking about the holes on the ends of the skid walls to which you attach the flanges. I'm taking this really slow. Yesterday I went looking for a 1/2" socket and picked up my trolley jack and one jack stand from my brother's place. Today I'm trying to get those holes aligned, but I must say I don't know if they're critical or not. Just my OCD nature that wants every bolt in every hole like they should be... But you're right, a round steel file would probably also do the trick!
Do the corners first. I've put together many of them and they are a bit testy but they will go together correctly. A drift also helps if you have one. Do not file or drill out the holes.

The wrap around bits on the flange are not wholly critical. Due to the nature of welded aluminum, it is theoretically possible to slam the tank skid in a way that one of the end caps may be broken loose. The flange ends are to help retain the end cap should that happen. The rest of the rig won't be doing so well if that happens, but at least you won't have end caps flying about.

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post #12 of 50 Old 10-08-2017, 06:22 AM
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Those corners are difficult. If I remember correctly, on one side I started with those ends, on the other I couldn't start with them so I put in a smaller bolt that did fit and tightened it down along with all of the other bolts I could fit. After those were all tightened I replaced the smaller bolt. Although after reading Blaine's post above I'm going to pick myself up a drift for next time I think it'd work better some places. As a last step I replaced each bolt 1 at a time and applied antiseize (helps keep the mess down by waiting or else I seem to get it everywhere).


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post #13 of 50 Old 10-08-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Do the corners first. I've put together many of them and they are a bit testy but they will go together correctly. A drift also helps if you have one. Do not file or drill out the holes.

The wrap around bits on the flange are not wholly critical. Due to the nature of welded aluminum, it is theoretically possible to slam the tank skid in a way that one of the end caps may be broken loose. The flange ends are to help retain the end cap should that happen. The rest of the rig won't be doing so well if that happens, but at least you won't have end caps flying about.
Yes, indeed, we can't have those end caps flying about!! Sorry, only saw your post now and I had already filed the holes out a little this afternoon, but much less than I thought would be necessary before the bolts slipped right in.

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Those corners are difficult. If I remember correctly, on one side I started with those ends, on the other I couldn't start with them so I put in a smaller bolt that did fit and tightened it down along with all of the other bolts I could fit. After those were all tightened I replaced the smaller bolt. Although after reading Blaine's post above I'm going to pick myself up a drift for next time I think it'd work better some places. As a last step I replaced each bolt 1 at a time and applied antiseize (helps keep the mess down by waiting or else I seem to get it everywhere).
Not only do I not have a drift, I had no idea what a drift was in the context of tools, so I googled "drift tool" and got images of various types of punches. Is that what you guys are talking about?? Maybe I do in fact have a small one then...

Anyway, all the bolts and nuts are on now, but I'll be leaving the skid for now. Tomorrow I'll try and do the body lift, following the instructions in a video that someone was so kind as to post in the What did you do... thread.

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post #14 of 50 Old 10-09-2017, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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There's no :exhausted: emoticon here, is there!? Well, OK then, my body lift is in! I know toximus said it was about a half an hour job for him. I knew it wouldn't be that quick for me. I did not know it would be an afternoon and a bit job for me though!! It's now just about 18:00 here and I stopped about half an hour ago, but I'm not even done yet! It's almost a pity there was nobody here to take a video of me while I was busy, because I think it would've been a pretty good bad slapstick movie, if you know what I mean!!

All the bolts are in, but the right rear of the big ones is extremely tough to turn and my tailgate won't close properly. I think the body was slightly warped in that accident I had at the beginning of the year, because we really battled to put the hard top back on earlier this year and my right door was also very tight against the top. Now the door closes easily, but that right rear bolt is so tough to turn and my tailgate looks fine at the hinges' side, but it's too low at the latch's side to close! I think I'm going to loosen all the body mount bolts again and tighten the tough one first, and see what happens.

Then also, I presume the two small pucks I got with my lift are for under the grille, right? The video I watched while fitting the lift was of a JKS lift and it came with two longer rubber stoppers that replaced the stock ones. Where do these two pucks go?

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post #15 of 50 Old 10-09-2017, 10:27 AM
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Once you take the BL on and off a few times it'll go faster each time.

I'm not sure on the Savvy BL. My JKS lift has the longer bumpers.


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