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Jeep Liberty Wheel Bearing & Hub - FrontSAVE BIG: Christmas in July Sale!Jeep Liberty Window Regulator

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Unread 01-16-2006, 01:29 PM   #1
onemoretry
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first ever jeep mods

I have had a 2001 TJ for a couple of months and have gone a little nuts... I have ordered an OME 2.5", 1" BL, 1"MML, body armor front and back bumper (with tire carrier etc), hard top, disconnects, 1" spring mount extenders (or something like that), adjustable sway bars, and other stuff I am sure i forgot.

Is one weekend enough?
What order should I go with?

Thinking about getting rock monster internal bead locks. Any thoughts?
Should I go 32 or 33? I am thinking procomp muds.

Any idea where I can get more money or learn how to spend slower?
What do i tell the wife?

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Unread 01-16-2006, 01:50 PM   #2
CNY
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What kind of wheeling do you do?
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Unread 01-16-2006, 01:52 PM   #3
onemoretry
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as much as possible

I have always enjoyed playing in the mud and hope to continue. This will not be my DD, but I will not be able to trailer it. I live near the badlands in Indiana and hope to go there as much as possible to start.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 01:53 PM   #4
TJgreg
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Pocket

tell the wife that "its a jeep thing" she wont understand. You're well on you way with all your new parts. One weekend will be enough, definitely if you have someone helping out and you know your way around your jeep. Just make sure you spary all the bolts / hardwar you will be messing with with PB blaster or wd-40 a day prior. Also, make sure yo have the right tools as well, such as a tie-rod puller (not reallly necessary), torque wrench, right sized sockets / extensions etc. If you have the coin, get beadlocks, but if youre not going super hradcore, I wouldnt worry about them. I'd go 33's.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 01:53 PM   #5
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Thinking about getting rock monster internal bead locks. Any thoughts?
Should I go 32 or 33? I am thinking procomp muds.



I'd go with BFG MTs but that's just my pinion...
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Unread 01-16-2006, 02:16 PM   #6
Texas TJ
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id go with the kuhmo MT's they flex real good and they are CHEAP and quiet
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If it won't budge, get a bigger hammer, if it breaks in the process it needed to be fixed anyway.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 03:29 PM   #7
onemoretry
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rock monster

I haven't heard too much around here about the rock monsters. Does anyone have anygood feedback?
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Unread 01-16-2006, 03:40 PM   #8
1BLKJP
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Of course not knowing your exact mechanical ability or the tools that you have, but I would say yeah one solid weekend would be enough.

I would start with all of the mechanical items first, ie...lift, trac bars, disconnects, etc.... Then with the tires back on the ground it will give you more room to add your body lift and your new bumpers.

I don't personally know anyone that uses those internal beadlocks, but IMO judging by the type of wheeling your going to do you probably don't need them. I run my 35's at around 7-9 psi in the rocks and I have only rolled a bead once.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 03:58 PM   #9
onemoretry
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mechanical ability

I am good with big hammers...

I have a brother in law that actually knows what he is doing. I am just dumb labor...
Thanks
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Unread 01-16-2006, 06:43 PM   #10
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dont forget the BEER!
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Unread 01-16-2006, 06:53 PM   #11
onemoretry
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beer

I am always good for the beer...
May wait till after for this job though.

I looked at the rock monster website on hutchison, and they have listed in one spot yj wheels, not tj, then in another spot they list tj not yj. Does anyone have these on a tj?

Sorry to keep bringing this up, but it is a lot of money, and I would prefer to have the DOT approved for all of the reasons listed elsewhere on this forum (I don't want to start another war on the subject, sorry)
thanks
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Unread 01-16-2006, 06:54 PM   #12
JamboreeTJ
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BL/MML will take a good day. I just put a Prothane 1" BL and Currie 1" MML on my '01 TJ. I have a 4.0L w/ AC. That complicates the MML nicely because of all the crap hanging off the driver's side of the engine. If you have A/C, then you will have to remove the entire MM and the bracket that is bolted to the block as the compressor prohibits you from removing the through bolt.

There is a funny convention in cars and airplanes, etc. Bolts point down, or to the rear. I understand the down thing, but this job would be 90% easier if the driver's side through bolt was inserted pointing to the front. It would cut 45 minutes off the worktime. Of course, when I put the new mount back in, I put the through bolt back in pointing toward the rear.

Getting the MM plus bracket out between the UCA and front drive shaft is an exercise in geometry. Getting the larger MM plus bracket back up in there is equally frustrating.

I HIGHLY recommend a MML that has the inboard stud welded in place, rather than loose like the Currie Mount unless you have someone to help secure the bolt on the topside and hold a wrench on it while you go at the righty tighty thing.

Also, you will need at least 18" worth of extension and a universal joint for your breaker bar / 1/2" drive ratchet. Torquing the driver's side MML bolts will be a pain in the arse, especially the through bolt.

The long extensions will help get at the 2 body mounts that are back by the gas tank and upper shock mounts.

Other than the above, it is a pretty straightforward upgrade. 6 hours or so should do that part.
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Unread 01-16-2006, 07:54 PM   #13
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If you were into rock crawling I'd say take the wife for a day of wheeling. When she hears all the sounds coming from underneath the Jeep she'll be convinced that you need skids and a lift.

Worked for me.
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