[Scotch740]

Finished my BMML this weekend, though I would share a few pics and thoughts on it.
Started with this.

The 4-3/4" length was increased to 5" during construction. Just didn't have a new picture of the Drawing. The 3.5" was slightly less (a pencil lines width) changed when I pulled out the Motor Mount.

After a few holes and some time on the band saw I got this.


Primed and painting.


Sorry no pics after the painting, had lunch and was so excited I forgot to take more pics.

The whole project went pretty well.
It cost me less than $30 in materials and could have been about $7 cheaper if I had picked up the aluminum locally instead of going to McMaster.
The coupling nuts came from McMaster, bolts all came from a local hardware store.
Only problem I had was needing a 3/4" bit which I had to drill at the shop at work.

Materials were
1"x2"x12" 6061 Aluminum
(2) M10 1.5 pitch 24mm coupling nuts.
(2) M10 1.5 pitch 60mm bolts
(2) M10 1.5 pitch 20mm bolts (cut down to 15mm)
Thread lock.

The install is just like that of any other BMML you would purchase from a manufacturer. I had to remove the trim holding the shifter boot down so I can get the transmission in 2,4,6,R with out it poping out and I need to adjust my TC linkage but I will be doing that when I install my Flat TC skid, which will also fix my shifting problem.

This combined with a 1.25" BL that I purchased, gave me 2" of height increase under the Transfer Case.


I am ordering the 33 Engineering low profile transmission mount to gain an extra 1.5" and then making my flat skid.

This is what my Drive shaft angle is with the Transfer Case raised 2" just used a jack and block of wood under the tranny.


What do you all think? Too steep? This is an Unlimited with no other lift.

And finally a shameless "this is my rig pic"

Only other thing I would want to change is maybe a 1" spacer up front to help with that rake.

[pendleton]

This looks good to me! I might be doing this same thing in the future. Good job and thanks for the measurements!

[rjt36]

Wow! I thought this was going to be another, "Check out my hockey puck BL!" thread. Looks like you went all out.

Oh, and, Unlimiteds look silly with stock tires. You need 33s, haha

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by rjt36

Wow! I thought this was going to be another, "Check out my hockey puck BL!" thread. Looks like you went all out.

Oh, and, Unlimiteds look silly with stock tires. You need 33s, haha

Yeah I wanted to do it right so I mimicked a manufactures design.
And I know they look kinda strange with stock tires, but thats big bucks to replace rubber now. Although I am always looking for some muds on the cheap.

One other point to note. On the Passenger side spacer I had to trim off a little aluminum to clear the motor bracket, very slight amount maybe a 1/16".

[solarpower]

Good looking stuff.

Please remove fractions from your prints.

[4.7stroker]

I see you have your priorities right.
Holes in your jean but Craftsman tools..........

Good job, Dwayne

[lostsos]

Looks good except for the bent soft top frame! How did that happen?

[Shorty]

Originally Posted by lostsos

Looks good except for the bent soft top frame! How did that happen?

Seriously? It's a Unlimited.

[tommaho]

Good job.

Hard to tell where your pinion is at, but the angles don't look bad. If there aren't any vibes you're gtg.

Tom

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by lostsos

Looks good except for the bent soft top frame! How did that happen?

HAHA, I was like how the hell can he tell, then I realized it was you. For those that dont know I bent the soft top frame rolling back into a tree. I was able to remove the top and bend it back to a little over 0.25" of the opposite side. Its not new but the back strips of the top don't come flapping out driving down the highway anymore.

I used fractions in the drawing because I was using a tape to dimension my lines.

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by tommaho

Good job.

Hard to tell where your pinion is at, but the angles don't look bad. If there aren't any vibes you're gtg.

Tom

I don't have it at that height yet. I am thinking I might take a block of wood and put it between the mount and stock skid plate to see how it rides. Hoping for no vibes.

[frankske_]

Scott, thanks for an excellent write-up . I used your dimensions to have my spacers made up. I had them made a bit thicker at 30mm instead of 1inch (25.4mm).
I was wondering, did you have to cut a piece of the stock motor mount bolts (the ones that get the coupler)? Not that big a problem, just curious if you had to do that as well as you didn't mention it? I had to cut off about 5mm. Had I used a 1" spacer, I would have needed to cut off 10mm even.

I used 30mm spacers to minimize the part I needed to cut off. Now, I can always go back to stock without the stock bolts being to short to get the nut back on. Had I cut off 10mm, I think I could have never gone back to stock (not that there's a reason to, but one never knows).

[Harvo]

I've never seen a MML before so help me understand how that works.

The bolt is just a longer replacement for the stock one you pull out. The one on the rght is the stud that comes out of the MM. You need to couple it with a bolt to make it long enough to go through the frame mounting hole.

Is that right? What is the part that everyone has to trim down? The stud? If so, why not just get a shorter bolt to couple with it?

Thanks for the patience.... I'm just trying to figure it out B-cause I have the resources to make a set of these, and I'm not sure how they all fit together.

[Scotch740]

frankske_-
Yes I did have to cut some off the stud. I should have mentioned it but guess it sliped my mind. I used the JKS instalation instructions and just said it went like any BMML install. JKS is the only one I knew of. Glad this worked for you. Also good Idea making it slightly bigger so you can go back to stock. I figured if I had to go back to stock I would just buy a new/used set of motor mounts from someone who had done a full MML not a BMML.

Originally Posted by Harvo

I've never seen a MML before so help me understand how that works.

The bolt is just a longer replacement for the stock one you pull out. The one on the rght is the stud that comes out of the MM. You need to couple it with a bolt to make it long enough to go through the frame mounting hole.

Is that right? What is the part that everyone has to trim down? The stud? If so, why not just get a shorter bolt to couple with it?

Thanks for the patience.... I'm just trying to figure it out B-cause I have the resources to make a set of these, and I'm not sure how they all fit together.

The bolt is a longer replacement. Correct.

The one on the INSIDE is a stud. That is not able to be removed. This is the one that must be cut down. Correct about needing to make the stud longer to go through the block and mounting hole.

You can't use a shorter bolt in my case because the coupling nut was 1" and I wanted both the stud and new bolt to engage as much (equal amounts) as possible.

Glad this has helped some people. Sorry I didn't mention having to cut down the stud before. Hope you didn't have it in place before you found that. Any other questions please feel free to PM or post here.

I have been running this since the end of May 2007 and as of now Aug 2007 have had no problems (knock on wood). I also see no future problems. This was a great budget solution for me. When my bushings need replacing I will probably just go with a full one piece MML. But having an 05 I hope this will be a ways off.

[doclouie]

I know this is an old thread, but thank you for the good write up. It is time to fire up the mill.