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Unread 10-12-2009, 05:28 AM   #121
ricko836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinx View Post
Yes, because you could totally stop on a trail and reinstall your old one to do the water crossing or unexpected mud hole, then go back to the CAI.

Oh wait, here in the Pineys we don't have the luxury of scheduling our mud holes on the trail.
Well you most likely wouldn't buy the CAI in the first place, duh. And I'm sure I live more in the "pineys" then you. I live on 100 acres of property and its mostly all woods. CAI are not intended for mudding and offroad use, they are for on road. End of story. I don't know why yous keep on rambling about them. It's a persons personal choice anyway. Let them do what they want.

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Unread 10-12-2009, 08:08 AM   #122
coldbeer52
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That picture with you're thread say's alot, My stock air filter system is in my shed, If we had mud like you've
been through here I would put it back. This place is so dry, flea's can't survive. coldbeer52.
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Unread 10-12-2009, 11:03 PM   #123
blinx
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Originally Posted by ricko836 View Post
Well you most likely wouldn't buy the CAI in the first place, duh. And I'm sure I live more in the "pineys" then you. I live on 100 acres of property and its mostly all woods. CAI are not intended for mudding and offroad use, they are for on road. End of story. I don't know why yous keep on rambling about them. It's a persons personal choice anyway. Let them do what they want.
I am glad you are so certain of everything. Please don't embarass yourself anymore.

Anyway.. back to the topic of CAI and OFF-ROAD use.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 06:00 AM   #124
ricko836
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I am glad you are so certain of everything. Please don't embarass yourself anymore.

Anyway.. back to the topic of CAI and OFF-ROAD use.
I'm just contributing to the thread. CAI and offroad use dumb, that banks kit that person posted seemed very nice tho to guard everything. Except if you had water that high it would suck it in. But I'm sure if you were going to be in mud/water alot you would spend the money on a snorkel instead of a CAI. It would be common sense on the buyer. $355 for ARB snorkel or $1000 for a coil pack 4.0 L motor. Easy choice.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 06:44 AM   #125
roadkill
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you guys are all forgetting something here, besides mud what about the fine dust? no mud in the desert, great, but what about all that fine sand and dust? I could be wrong here but I haven't seen any brand of oil gauze filter that actually filters better than a paper element. with that said what advantage(s) are you getting with one vs a stock paper filter.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 09:19 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
you guys are all forgetting something here, besides mud what about the fine dust? no mud in the desert, great, but what about all that fine sand and dust? I could be wrong here but I haven't seen any brand of oil gauze filter that actually filters better than a paper element. with that said what advantage(s) are you getting with one vs a stock paper filter.
"my butt dyno says i have 100 more HP, and i know it's working b/c it whistles"

a real dyno says you have <10+HP, and that's at above 3000 RPM.

i had K&N cone filter on the stock tube (cut the stock box off), in reality it did nothing except make the insides get dirtier faster. Now i have a foam filter that's WAY to big, it filters better than the K&N but still not as good as stock. I put something else in place of the stock box so i'm stuck w/ the shorty 'C'AI style, for now. Come thursday i may be buying a true CAI that goes through the cowl.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 02:19 PM   #127
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I really don't know, and not afraid to ask. Back in the early day's of Mickey Thomson, and "Iron Man"
Stewart, what were they running for air filtration?
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Unread 10-13-2009, 06:11 PM   #128
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I really don't know, and not afraid to ask. Back in the early day's of Mickey Thomson, and "Iron Man"
Stewart, what were they running for air filtration?
Most off roaders back in the 70's-80's ran K&N.

Anyone on this forum who says K&N is good will get promptly spanked with a huge wet noodle. There may be a possibility K&N builds crappier filters now than back then. I used to run them as filter #3 in a 4 filter set-up on a fleet of trucks and equipment I managed in extreme dirt and dust conditions. Filter #1 was one of those simple spinner type separators that gets out the big trash. These would be emptied every couple hours. Filter #2 was a cheap paper filter (Wix 2260) that would get blown out every couple hours and sent it to be washed once a week. Filter #3 was a K&N stock filter replacement. Back in the 70's K&N would build filters for your application. Filter #4 was the stock inner "last stand" filter. Normally we'd only clean the K&N once a month or so. In almost a 10 year period I never changed a filter #4 as no dirt ever got to it. You want the K&N to fill with dirt as it works better filtration wise and looses very little flow.

I don't use them anymore as I think they use thinner gauze and less of it now.
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Unread 10-13-2009, 08:31 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldbeer52 View Post
I really don't know, and not afraid to ask. Back in the early day's of Mickey Thomson, and "Iron Man"
Stewart, what were they running for air filtration?
well if you're racing you don't care about the engine. You're going to take it apart and rebuild it before the next race anyway. Heck lots of racing engines run wide open intakes with absolutely no filter. Even some motorcycles run no filter intakes.

Stacks:


Drag racing:


Next time your cutting the grass, pull the cover off your lawnmowers filter box. Look whats inside. And the air around your lawn is cleaner than you see off-road. If you're running an engine in a racing application you don't care if it gets 'clean' air or not, as long as you're not sucking in rocks or something big enough to damage the engine. A bug screen would provide plenty of filtration. The engine only has to last till the race is over. If you want an engine to last 200k+ miles in varying weather conditions over several decades, you want good filtration!!
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Unread 10-14-2009, 10:54 AM   #130
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I'll provide some interesting reading on this subject-

"Recognizing the Signs and Symptoms of Silica Contamination" from Practicing Oil Analysis Magazine, January 2006:
Recognizing the Signs and Symptoms of Silica Contamination

A complete air filter analysis using the PTI Coarse Dust Test, which includes several brands, in addition to K&N:
ISO 5011 Air Filter Test
Spicer Filter Testing

Now K&N's & UOA (used oil analysis) with observed silica content in street driven vehicles:
Threw away K&N's due to high silicon in UOA's - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Read all links thoroughly and decide for yourself.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 10-14-2009 at 11:06 AM..
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Unread 10-14-2009, 02:30 PM   #131
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FYI The CAI I use is now available to the public.

YouTube - MCAI First Look

I have the first design which uses a metal tube.

My secondary filter also looks a little different.



This is who sells them.

Skinny Pedal Products

Double filtered engine air, filtered cab air, better mileage and performance.
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Unread 10-14-2009, 03:19 PM   #132
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FYI The CAI I use is now available to the public.

YouTube - MCAI First Look

I have the first design which uses a metal tube.

My secondary filter also looks a little different.



This is who sells them.

Skinny Pedal Products

Double filtered engine air, filtered cab air, better mileage and performance.
You finally got them on the market heh? Has been a long time in R&D.

Nice!

BTW, my cowl CAI with OEM air box and filter is still doing what I want it to.

Last edited by Hayseed; 10-14-2009 at 03:30 PM..
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Unread 10-14-2009, 03:21 PM   #133
roadkill
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what kind of filters will the MCAI use?
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Unread 10-14-2009, 03:22 PM   #134
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Double filtered engine air, filtered cab air, better mileage and performance.
nicely done!

got any pics with the cowl off?
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Unread 10-14-2009, 05:08 PM   #135
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Pretty sweet. I like the idea of the prefilter, though I wonder how it'll work with dust and mud getting on it and such. Maybe wrapping the prefilter in pantyhose or something might be a good idea?

$350, though? Really? Are there at least any real-world miles on that setup with oil analysis showing silica levels and such? Any dyno runs or meticulously logged mileage numbers (without a change in driving habits/styles, of course)? I mean, I like the idea, and I don't want to be sold a pack of marketing lies, especially for that price, but I think I could maybe be talked into it...
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