fan switch connector - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 50 Old 08-17-2010, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
tapenick
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I checked with the local Jeep specific salvage yard.. he said most of the ones he got in were at least partially damaged. Guess I'll just use some insulated female connectors.

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post #32 of 50 Old 08-19-2010, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Was actually able to just cut the plastic off of the factory connector, wrap the bare connectors with electrical tape, and reassemble. Working on high... guess I still have some sort of problem in the resistor circuit.
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post #33 of 50 Old 08-20-2010, 06:48 AM
Ross
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Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
Yep, this is a two fold problem and both work together to screw things up. Undersized wires and worn blower motors are the culprit. First the blower motor start to show its age and when it does it wants to pull more current through those undersized wires. That along with the crappy idea of using a 5 amp switch to control a 30 amp blower motor is just stupid. Install a 40 amp relay in the circuit so now the switch controls the relay which in turn controls the blower motor and you have fixed JEEPS screw up in design.

When I changed blower motors you could different feel the difference in the way they spun, even though the old one still worked.

My concern is that even with larger wires at the switch of the relay fix what else you melt. I still think it is a good idea to change out the blower motor, it seems to be the source of the problem.

01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #34 of 50 Old 08-20-2010, 06:50 AM
Ross
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Originally Posted by tapenick View Post
Update - replaced the connector.. still no fan. Check fuses, good. Even though it wasn't even working on high I went to check the resistor .. found the attached pic.

Question is, why wouldn't it work on high?
bad fan switch? bad mode switch?

01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #35 of 50 Old 08-20-2010, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
tapenick
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Originally Posted by Ross View Post
When I changed blower motors you could different feel the difference in the way they spun, even though the old one still worked.

My concern is that even with larger wires at the switch of the relay fix what else you melt. I still think it is a good idea to change out the blower motor, it seems to be the source of the problem.
Yep, I've changed the motor.
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post #36 of 50 Old 08-20-2010, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
tapenick
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bad fan switch? bad mode switch?
Not sure what it was called.. probably the 'mode switch'. Anyway.. the problem was the connector on the switch that was in that picture.

So working on high now.. but not other speeds. Will continue debugging in the resistor circuit this weekend.
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post #37 of 50 Old 08-20-2010, 08:04 AM
Ross
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Not sure what it was called.. probably the 'mode switch'. Anyway.. the problem was the connector on the switch that was in that picture.

So working on high now.. but not other speeds. Will continue debugging in the resistor circuit this weekend.
Probably the resistor than. The mode switch, or at least what I call the mode switch, is the one that controls AC/Max AC and the vent petitions. It has both electrical and vacuum connections.

01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #38 of 50 Old 07-17-2011, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Update - dead again. New motor, new switches, connectors, etc.. appears to have melted a bunch of it again. I'll be doing the relay mod this time.. amazing that this circuit was so poorly engineered.

Question - I noticed that some folks are putting a relay on all four speeds... is this necessary? Figured high was the only one pulling enough current to cook stuff?


Tom
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post #39 of 50 Old 07-17-2011, 01:11 PM
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Once you get the positive and negitive wires routed it wouldn't take much more to put all 4 in. Did you ever replace the resistor? If you only had high, did you leave it blowing for very long?
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post #40 of 50 Old 07-17-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tapenick View Post
Update - dead again. New motor, new switches, connectors, etc.. appears to have melted a bunch of it again. I'll be doing the relay mod this time.. amazing that this circuit was so poorly engineered.

Question - I noticed that some folks are putting a relay on all four speeds... is this necessary? Figured high was the only one pulling enough current to cook stuff?


Tom
I started off by adding the relays to the 2 highest settings as they pull more current. I have then since gone back and added 2 more for the lower settings just because. BTW 3rd speed is what when out on mine the first 2 times. So it pulls enough current to melt as well.
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post #41 of 50 Old 07-17-2011, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Once you get the positive and negitive wires routed it wouldn't take much more to put all 4 in. Did you ever replace the resistor? If you only had high, did you leave it blowing for very long?
Embarrassed - but I never did replace the resistor. In my defense, a little bit of "out of sight, out of mind".. my daughter drives the 2000 most of the time. And yes - I'm sure she runs the fan on high constantly.

Understand on the bulk of the work being getting the positive and negative in... guess I'll go ahead and do all four.

I won't be going back with the Jeep connectors this time.. think I'll just do insulated female connectors. I'm thinking back though - seems I recall that there were some places without enough room to used insulated connectors. Guess I'll use heat shrink there. Hopefully not enough heat when I get the relays in to cause trouble.

Being lazy - anyone know off the top of their head the best place to pull ground and the best place to come through the firewall with positive?


Tom
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post #42 of 50 Old 07-17-2011, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tapenick View Post
Embarrassed - but I never did replace the resistor. In my defense, a little bit of "out of sight, out of mind".. my daughter drives the 2000 most of the time. And yes - I'm sure she runs the fan on high constantly.

Understand on the bulk of the work being getting the positive and negative in... guess I'll go ahead and do all four.

I won't be going back with the Jeep connectors this time.. think I'll just do insulated female connectors. I'm thinking back though - seems I recall that there were some places without enough room to used insulated connectors. Guess I'll use heat shrink there. Hopefully not enough heat when I get the relays in to cause trouble.

Being lazy - anyone know off the top of their head the best place to pull ground and the best place to come through the firewall with positive?


Tom
First off I just replaced the connectors and used heat shrink tubing, and it works. The positive wire I ran straight to the battery and fused to an opening right next to the brake pedal to the left side. On mine there were wires going thru there anyway. For the ground I found a spot that had other ground wires attached to the body next to the brake pedal. The bulk of the work for me was fabricating up the relay harness that I made to splice into the fan speed switch. That said the whole mod took about 30 minutes to do.
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post #43 of 50 Old 07-18-2011, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Couldn't the hot wire that is currently supplying the switch be used to power the relays?
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post #44 of 50 Old 08-13-2011, 03:06 PM
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is there any more data on this - I have a 99 TJ that i just replaced the A/C switch - ran long enough for me to get the dash back together - then nothing...no high or 1,2,3 setting...any thoughts???

regards
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post #45 of 50 Old 08-15-2011, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
tapenick
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Check the connector on the mode selector switch and at the resistor. Both of those were melted on mine as well. Oh, and go ahead and do the relay mod.

Tom
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