The brushes in the blower motor wears out and puts to much current through the wire that are too small. Models around 2000 are the ones that this happen to most.
There is a mod somewhere on here to put relays on the wires to solve this problem. I have been just sweating it and keeping the A/C on 1 or 2.
The three wires on the right are also known to melt.
Okay, the part the Jeep place quoted me was the vacuum connector for the defrost/vent control. Ugh. But, the parts guy did some digging and found part number 68052589AA which is a 'repair kit' for the blower switch harness. (sounds like a pigtail) $42.17. Guess I'll order it, slap the new blower in today, then hope it's the right part.
Okay guys - we have a local guy that deals mostly in used Jeeps (Used Jeeps For Sale - Gilbert Jeeps and 4x4's) ... swung by there today and he was intimately familiar with my problem. But, he said that the motor wasn't causing the problems.. that the wiring was just insufficient and over time started causing problems. I'm having a hard time swallowing that.. wanted to check with the group. In his defense.. he fixes a lot of them and sends the folks on their way... so may not know if it breaks again.
Do we have a consensus that the motor is probably going bad causing extra current draw?
why dont the fuses work by burning when the current of the old motors is drawing more than the wires/connectors/and switches can take?
Two moths ago i repaired a melted AC/Htr master on/off electrical switch (not the vacuum switch attached to the same right-most knob) and today, the connector melted to the Fan Speed Resistor behind the glove compartment when i had in Lo position for 15min. The ac works great but fan only works in HI position again. Here we go again... I am now assuming i have a huge current drain being demanded by the old fan. Anyone recommend the best way to get the actual dc current being drawn by your fan without taking the battery and fan motor out?
My mechanic found and fixed the first issue but i did the research this time and all sorts of melted connectors, switches, and wires all through the e- supply to the fan.
That's what I was thinking. Just took the old one out.. no signs of anything wrong with it. I understand that worn brushes probably wouldn't be detectable.. just going to slap the new one in and hope for the best.
I would do the relay mod too. I am when it gets cooler out. I have been leaving it on settings 3 and 4 no longer than 5 min, then going to setting 2.
I have read about others that replaced the blower motor and still got melted switches.