-   TJ Wrangler Technical Forum (
-   -   fan switch connector (

tapenick 08-04-2010 09:20 PM

fan switch connector
2000 TJ
A/C fan only worked on low (1) .. replaced the fan switch, worked on 1,2, and 4. Then, it died completely. NO fan. Disassembled tonight and found this mess:

Any ideas what would cause it to get that hot?
And how to proceed on fixing this mess?


Cuder 08-04-2010 09:37 PM

The brushes in the blower motor wears out and puts to much current through the wire that are too small. Models around 2000 are the ones that this happen to most.
There is a mod somewhere on here to put relays on the wires to solve this problem. I have been just sweating it and keeping the A/C on 1 or 2.
The three wires on the right are also known to melt.

Knuckelhead 08-05-2010 05:20 AM

The blower motor bearings wear out also...

tapenick 08-05-2010 03:10 PM

Guy at the Jeep place said to check for a resistor being grounded too. Somewhere near the fan motor. Guess I have some investigating to do.

Can purchase a replacement harness for the blower switch connector that just unplugs.. $38. But get this - if it's the fan motor causing the current draw - new motor is $267!!!


Knuckelhead 08-05-2010 06:43 PM


Originally Posted by tapenick (Post 9911398)
Can purchase a replacement harness for the blower switch connector that just unplugs.. $38. But get this - if it's the fan motor causing the current draw - new motor is $267!!!

Rebuild the fan motor...;)

Cuder 08-05-2010 06:53 PM

$ 49.09 plus shipping. $10.60 4-7 days to ship to Dallas
lifetime warranty - 1997-2001 Jeep Wrangler Heater / AC Blower Motor

tapenick 08-05-2010 07:57 PM

Fourty-nine bucks.. now we're talking! Thanks cuder!

Been reading some threads about the resistor ... but since mine does not work on high that's probably not my problem, right? Guessing it's just that mangled up connector.

Blower motor is right behind the battery.. looks like a no-brainer?


Cuder 08-05-2010 10:19 PM

There is a relay mod in this thread at the end. I haven't done it yet.

Here is some more on this problem.

tapenick 08-07-2010 10:23 AM

Okay, the part the Jeep place quoted me was the vacuum connector for the defrost/vent control. Ugh. But, the parts guy did some digging and found part number 68052589AA which is a 'repair kit' for the blower switch harness. (sounds like a pigtail) $42.17. Guess I'll order it, slap the new blower in today, then hope it's the right part.

Interesting article on this topic:
Jeep Fire Prevention - Jp Magazine


tapenick 08-07-2010 09:56 PM

Okay guys - we have a local guy that deals mostly in used Jeeps (Used Jeeps For Sale - Gilbert Jeeps and 4x4's) ... swung by there today and he was intimately familiar with my problem. But, he said that the motor wasn't causing the problems.. that the wiring was just insufficient and over time started causing problems. I'm having a hard time swallowing that.. wanted to check with the group. In his defense.. he fixes a lot of them and sends the folks on their way... so may not know if it breaks again.

Do we have a consensus that the motor is probably going bad causing extra current draw?


wushaw 08-08-2010 04:35 PM

[Quote] Do we have a consensus that the motor is probably going bad causing extra current draw? [Quote]

Well the motor has moving parts right? Moving parts do wear out right? Do wires have moving parts?

And if the wire guage was at fault then they would have failed sooner than 8 - 10 years down the road.

invishand 08-08-2010 04:57 PM

Why dont the fuses work?
why dont the fuses work by burning when the current of the old motors is drawing more than the wires/connectors/and switches can take?

Two moths ago i repaired a melted AC/Htr master on/off electrical switch (not the vacuum switch attached to the same right-most knob) and today, the connector melted to the Fan Speed Resistor behind the glove compartment when i had in Lo position for 15min. The ac works great but fan only works in HI position again. Here we go again... I am now assuming i have a huge current drain being demanded by the old fan. Anyone recommend the best way to get the actual dc current being drawn by your fan without taking the battery and fan motor out?

My mechanic found and fixed the first issue but i did the research this time and all sorts of melted connectors, switches, and wires all through the e- supply to the fan.

See schematic @

And does anyone have a fuse block diagram that shows which fuse is the blower fuse (shown as 30a in the schematic)?

tapenick 08-08-2010 05:44 PM

That's what I was thinking. Just took the old one out.. no signs of anything wrong with it. I understand that worn brushes probably wouldn't be detectable.. just going to slap the new one in and hope for the best.


tapenick 08-08-2010 05:57 PM

Nothing in the resistor pack could cause this could it? I wasn't thinking so since, from my understanding, the circuit doesn't go through the resistor pack on high.


Cuder 08-08-2010 06:23 PM

I would do the relay mod too. I am when it gets cooler out. I have been leaving it on settings 3 and 4 no longer than 5 min, then going to setting 2.
I have read about others that replaced the blower motor and still got melted switches.

The time now is 10:07 AM.

Powered by vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.