Extreme Novice Installing PowerTrax No-Slip, TrueTrac, Crown 4340 rear axle shafts - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > Extreme Novice Installing PowerTrax No-Slip, TrueTrac, Crown 4340 rear axle shafts

Nitro Gear Packages Now Available at Rockridge 4wdSavvy Aluminum Gas Tank SkidFS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options!

Reply
Unread 07-07-2011, 02:30 PM   #31
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
The last step with the Crown axles is to seat the lug bolts. The axles ship with the bolts in a bag. Simply hammer them into position. The only trick here is to avoid smacking the tone ring. In theory, you could use a press to install these bolts, but I didn't see the need.



You don't need Loctite for this job. The bolts have flutes on the stem, which crush and fuse to the axle's ring surface. Once they are in, they are staying in permanently.

__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-07-2011, 02:56 PM   #32
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
Now for the finale. Place the TrueTrac back into the axle housing, complete with the new bearing cups over the bearings (again, make sure the left bearing cup is on the left, the right on the right, so that your backlash measurements will remain true).

This time, as I expected, it was a very tight fit, due to the fact that the TrueTrac now has the extra shims added on each side to establish a stout preload. I found that it was too difficult to hold the TrueTrac in place while banging it in with a rubber mallet, and I was concerned that I was going to put it in on an angle and damage the bearing cups. Instead, I removed one of the thick spacers (those 3/8 inch things I mentioned before, which look like super-thick shims, free-floating outside the bearing cups). Then I placed the TrueTrac easily into the housing, and tapped the spacer back into position.

I re-measured the backlash, just in case. Still perfect at 0.005 inches. Whew, what a relief. Install the bearing caps and torque to spec (57 lbs).

The remaining steps are easy and fun.

Rotate the TrueTrac inside the axle housing so that the slot is facing you. Insert an axle shaft and push it all the way in, so that the groove at the end for the c-clip is exposed through the slot in the TrueTrac.



Install a new c-clip (which comes with the Crown axle). In the picture above, I've already installed the c-clip. Then pull the axle shaft out about an inch, to seat the c-clip in its new home inside the TrueTrac. (Obviously, the steps are exactly the same if you are reinstalling the old axle shafts.) Repeat for the other axle shaft.

Then open the package that comes with the TrueTrac, containing the axle shaft spacer, retaining cylinder (in other words, the cover), and snap ring. Here's what they look like:



And here are the directions about how they are installed:





Nothing to it. Place the spacer in between the ends of the axle shafts. This isn't a tight fit, but don't worry, this spacer doesn't have a difficult job. The only time it matters is when the wheels are off. When the wheels are on, it's not possible (or at least, I don't think it is) to push the axle shafts in far enough for the c-clips to become unseated. Then put the retaining cylinder in place, and snap in the snap ring. I used a pair of $7 Craftsman snap ring pliers to do this. Note the directions above, which say to make certain that the snap ring is correctly seated.

And there it is: the TrueTrac is installed.

__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-07-2011, 03:03 PM   #33
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
By the way, if you are really paying attention, you'll compare the last picture above with the first picture I took of the bearing caps. The bearing cap on the right is re-installed upside down! This is why you should take pictures, rather than trying to rely on memory. (Fixed it.)
__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-07-2011, 03:23 PM   #34
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
My last step was to install a new Solid Axle Industries differential cover.



This was totally unnecessary but I happened to get one cheap, and I prefer the screw-in fill plug, versus the plastic plug on the original cover. I drive in a lot of axle-deep water and mud, which means that I need to check or change the diff lube more frequently than usual (water can get into the diff despite the axle seals, and water in the oil will eventually ruin the ring gear and pinion). A screw-in fill plug is easier than the OEM plastic plug, and the Solid diff has the plug at a higher point, which both prevents more water from getting in that way and allows you to add a bit more oil.

Since I also assume I'll need to remove the cover more than most people will, and I don't like messing with RTV sealant, I used a reusable LubeLocker on the Dana 35, just as I did with the Dana 30.



One huge pain with the Dana 35 is that it's very difficult to fill the diff with oil. A quart bottle doesn't fit very well between the diff cover and the gas tank skid, even if Jeep is on jackstands with the axle hanging free. I used a hand pump to fill the diff with oil, and I highly recommend this approach. Mine is the $15 MityVac MV7241 Fluid Transfer Pump, which I bought at Autozone. It's great because it functions as either a pump or a siphon.

That's it, all done. Any time you reset the backlash, the pinion and ring gear teeth are going to wear a slightly different pattern than before. Therefore, you should refrain from aggressive driving or long drives for the first 500 miles of use, as a break-in period.

I'll do a performance report soon.
__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-07-2011, 05:43 PM   #35
jeepinmichguy_
I haz ah Geep
 
jeepinmichguy_'s Avatar
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: The Sticks, Alabama
Posts: 7,380
Great write up!!!!!
__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
Jeepinmichguy is a jerk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
How about this, if you had the Jeep Spirit, you wouldn't abuse the rest of us trying to enjoy a nice day out wheeling by bringing your brokeass broken down junkyard crap out to play where it can't handle it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepForum123 View Post
you all have nice rigs, stop being f****** a**holes.
jeepinmichguy_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-07-2011, 08:43 PM   #36
EricsGreen98Tj
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Elkins, West Virginia
Posts: 2,028
Hey GOOD job man. You can also use a 2' peice of clear vinal tubing and a hose clamp to get the gear oil into your diff. Just cut the tip on the pointed cap of the oil bottle, shove the tubing onto it and put the hose clamp over the hose. Tighten it down(you dont have to have the hose clamp but it helps the tubing stay on), put the other end of the tubing into the fill plug hole and start to squeeze the oil bottle. You will have to let the oil bottle get air a time or two or you wont be able to get all the oil out. All you have to do is twist the oil bottle cap open a little to do this.....

Did NOT mean to hyjack FARMER! Or take away anything from your write up. You may have just given me the inspiration to give my own diffs a go this fall. +15 at least!
__________________
Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
EricsGreen98Tj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-08-2011, 12:23 PM   #37
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
Eric, do it! The improvement in the Jeep's performance is magical. This is completely easy to do on your own. It will take you some time but it's fun time. It took me about six hours for each axle, which included lots of writing things down and trying to get photographs. And I didn't have this guide to help me, and I didn't have an impact wrench. My guess is you could knock it out in four hours for each axle even if you are a total novice, if you aren't trying to blog it and you already have all the tools ready after reading these notes. Less, if you use an impact wrench or have any experience with axles.
__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-08-2011, 06:26 PM   #38
EricsGreen98Tj
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Elkins, West Virginia
Posts: 2,028
Well the good thing is that my cousin is a Ford Master Tech and can fix it if i screw anything up.....

I already bought a good, straight HP D30 from a fellow WV wheeler for cheap. AND i have the Motive 4.88's and install kits sitting in the kitchen floor. I just dont have to time to do it right now but I will once I buy a locker or two
__________________
Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
EricsGreen98Tj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #39
RowJ
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas/OK Border
Posts: 2,027
Had scanned this write up when I was planning to regear.
Wish I had read it closely and throughly.... instead of paying someone to do my rear axle.
Now that business is not so hectic and I HAVE READ IT CAREFULLY, I will definately tackle the front axle myself.
Also not my only vehicle, have a friend with a press and have finally lost the fear of backlash and shim mystic...... thanks to you!

Actually mad at my self for paying $300.00 to a local racing mechanic who claims to have done over 200 differential rebuilds/installs. I believe him, and I know it's perfect...which is a nice feeling.
But, I've paid dues with over 500 hrs working on my Dodge Cummins hot rod, and I could have been braver when it came to differentials (my last area of concern over lack of expertise)!

Funniest thing is, after reading here, ... what had me most intimidated was dealing with the TrueTrac!

'Farmer' - My thanks added to all the others!

RJ
RowJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-02-2011, 12:43 PM   #40
mike481
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 832
Great write-up. I just wanted to add a helpful tip I learned while regearing my axles. My 2000 has a HP30 front and D44 rear so it might be a little different for the D35 rear. I know it is the same for the LPD30 and HPD30:

There is no need to mark the bearing caps or even take photos. If you look at the bearing caps there will be either a "T" or a "Y" stamped into each cap. The letter will be vertical on one cap and horizontal on the other (if you go back and look at the pics of the D30 you will see a horizontal "Y" on the passenger side and a vertical "Y" on the drivers side. The letter is stamped into the case on the covers mating surface with the matching orientation. My D44 used the letter "T" to mark the bearing caps.

Once I learned this it was simple to check if my caps were on correctly. This is a good practice since bearing cap orientation is critical.

I'll be sure to watch for more of your write-ups.

Mike
__________________
Chuck- A better dog than I could ever deserve

RIP 4-14-2012
mike481 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-02-2011, 12:54 PM   #41
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
RJ, sounds like you could do it in your sleep. The front is much easier to work on than the rear, too, simply because you have so much more room.

Mike481, that's right. Mine actually had an A stamped on it. You can just barely see it the photos. That does make it unlikely that you'd put the left one back onto the right side, etc. But I recommend taking a picture of it because it's still possible to put the silly thing on upside down, like I originally did .... at least it is for a novice like me. In any event, it's nice to have the pics so that you will be 100% confident afterward.

Eventually I will get around to doing a video of the TrueTrac in action. It's great so far.
__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2011, 04:53 PM   #42
afusco1222
Registered User
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Posts: 940
I'm going to do this install once I'm done with finals. Where did you get the LSD install kit and the bearings?
afusco1222 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2011, 06:33 PM   #43
EricsGreen98Tj
Registered User
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Elkins, West Virginia
Posts: 2,028
Well Farmer I just finished putting the 4.88's, Trutrac, and Alloy Usa shafts in my D35. I put an E-locker, 4.88's, and a HP D30( ) in my front axle last week. I will say that you have to have a little patience, and a few special tools to do this. Other than that it is VERY satisfying to do your own diffs and reap the benefits off the road.

Thanks for pushing me over the edge so I could tackle this install by myself.
__________________
Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
EricsGreen98Tj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2011, 07:52 PM   #44
FarmerinVA
Just a flatlander
 
FarmerinVA's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tappahannock, Virginia
Posts: 600
Eric, that's great! You've one-upped me, too, since the front E-locker is an additional degree of difficulty. But it's cheating if you did it when the axle wasn't yet in the Jeep! (Kidding about that last part, of course.) Thanks for telling me, that really brings a smile to my face.

afusco1222, I bought 90% of the stuff from Quadratec. Their prices are close the best on the web and when you factor in shipping cost (although sometimes you need to call them and tell them their shipping is too high) and shipping speed, they are usually a good deal. Here is my order from Quadratec. I don't know if these item numbers and prices are still the same. I should have included this info earlier in this thread. Good question!

16104 102 NOSLIP 72-86 DANA 30 OPEN DIFF 92-0430-2700 $439.99 Shipped
16100 604 DETROIT TRUTRAC DANA 35 3.54 AND HIGHER 912A569 $409.99 Shipped
16100 710 ECTED STANDARD SIZE BEARING SETUP 30/35 541074 $49.99 Shipped
52419 802 RING & PINION INSTALL KIT DANA30 TJ 25-2031 $44.99 Shipped
52416 103 DANA 35 DIFFERENTIAL GASKET LUBELOCKER LLR-D035 $21.99 Shipped
52416 100 DANA 30 DIFFERENTIAL GASKET LUBELOCKER LLR-D030 $43.98 Shipped

Notes: the No-Slip says "72-86" but that's the model that fits 97-06 Wranglers as well, they just haven't updated their invoice for some reason; you should be able to borrow a pair of setup bearings, I was a dope to buy them; the Lubelockers aren't necessary if you want to use RTV, which is very cheap if you need to buy it and actually comes no extra charge with the Ring & Pinion Install kit; you still need to buy ring gear bolts for the Dana 35, and those bolts are about a buck each and many auto parts places sell them; you also need to buy actual bearings for the Dana 35 (make sure they come with matching races) and Timken are good quality ones, but I can't find a record of where I bought mine -- apparently it wasn't from Quadratec.
__________________
My do-it-yourself install thread for a TrueTrac in the rear, upgraded shafts, and a PowerTrax No-Slip in the front:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ex...hafts-1234745/
FarmerinVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2011, 08:25 PM   #45
afusco1222
Registered User
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Posts: 940
Did you just use the unused shims from your Dana 30 install kit for the Dana 35 LSD install or did you buy a whole new install kit for the dana 35?
afusco1222 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.