I have an 04 tj with pull to the left. checked presures on tires and tried rotating NO HELP. Had alignment shop check it out and replace front worn track bar they found was bad STILL NO HELP. Read a thread on here the other day that was pointing to UCA or LCA front or rear. Inspected without help (dont know if thers is any play) but did find that the bushings apear to be dry rotted and no damage to any components. Also measured wheel base and found drivers side at 94 inches and pass at 93 dont know if that indicates anything. Wondering if you or anyone has any ideas on what I can do to fix this. GREAT ARTICAL ALSO
Sounds like you did some homework and I'd say you're headed in the right direction at looking for the UCA/LCA bushings. I'd focus on the front bushings, likely on the driver side.
Accurate wheelbase measuring is kind of hard with tires on the vehicle, having the wheels just slightly off-center can make one side look bigger than the other.
Now the dry-rotted bushings... are they like that on only one side?
Can you post the alignment specs?
Ok I got one for ya. I had my Jeep aligned recently after getting new tires and just to have it checked since it's been awhile. Now this is a reputable shop and they have done lots of work for me and never done me wrong but here's what he came at me with.... " the front was fine other than the toe being out quite a bit but it's the rear that has me worried. It shows the tires to be leaning like this \--o--\ and it needs some work or you'll get bad tire wear on the outside of one and the inside of the other." Now this is a straight axle I say and how can that be and how do you plan to adjust this? "Well theres a shim we can put behind the backing plate to change this to meet specs" This is a Dana 35 so I'm not going to put any money in it but how can this be and I see no way to change the tilt of a rear tire when there are bearings on the end of the axle shafts. Is this correct or not?? Like I said I don't plan on putting money into it but I don't see how this scenario is possible.
I'd have to see numbers to see how bad it really is. Did he give you the print out?
Honestly when it comes to camber, you should be able to eye-ball it pretty close to +/- 1.0 degrees of 0. If it physically looks straight up and down, chances are it's within 0.5 degrees of 0 on each wheel.
I wouldn't hesitate to assume they were trying to make a quick buck on a BS labor and part charge. It's easy to fool the machine by not having the rack dropped onto it's locks, or even individually messing with the alignment heads(ie: pushing in on the top of one and bottom of the opposite head) to throw the camber reading off.
You're correct in saying there is no way to tilt the wheel mounting surface in relation to the axle. This is done on a lot of FWD cars with a "solid-like" rear suspension assembly. Such as found on older Jettas, Neons, PT Cruisers, Caravans, Cobalts, etc etc. Angled shims are used for toe and camber adjustments on those cars if they're way out of spec. Had a 2002ish Jetta the other day that had +0.22 toe in in the LR, and -0.87 toe out in the RR
Of course the customer chose the cheap route in buying shims as opposed to getting the entire solid "member" for the rear.
In a nutshell whoever told you about the shims for a solid rear axle doesn't know their a** from their elbows.
Did they try to quote you parts and labor for that? I'd try and put their ***** out of business.