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#31 | ||
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When I first saw your brake question, I thought OK how many combinations could there be? I had a buddy that did the disc conversion on his '98, yours is likely similar. I would not have thought that one would adapt front parts to the rear. Did you do a visual prior to posting? Part of the great thing about JeepForum is teaching someone to fish, not giving them a fish. Before you know it, you'll be in a position to help others and pass along what you've learned.
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DON'T FEAR THE RE-GEAR!!!
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#32 | |||
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,905
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You have 4 common and 1 slightly less common choices for your rear discs. Jeep TJ rear disc conversion Jeep ZJ rear disc conversion Teraflex rear disc conversion SSBC rear disc conversion Ford Explorer rear disc conversion The two jeep offerings don't use interchangeable pads and if you had the Ford Explorer Calipers on the TJ brackets, you could use Ford pads, but otherwise the TJ takes it's own pad because of the size of the hole in the caliper piston even though the length works with the Ford Bracket. If you have the brakes from a 95 ZJ, they don't interchange with the rest of the ZJ year models. We learned that the hard way when we did Stu's conversion and I had to file down the ends of the pads. The rest of the years are the same. The Teraflex kit may use either the Ford or 1 of the two jeep pad sets and the kit from SSBC doesn't use anything recognizeable. You'd have to call them for your application. Are you figuring this out yet?
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I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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#33 |
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OK, since I bought these axles used and don't know what disc conversion I have on the rear, I'll make some calls tomorrow and try to track down the previous owner. Failing that, I can always snap a few pics to help ID it.
Visually, the rear set-up pretty much looks the same as the front, no markings that I can see. I'll try to post a pic or two tomorrow, thanks.
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'97 moss pearl green TJ, 4.0, 5-speed, 3" Teraflex coils +1.5" spacers, Super35 w/ Superior 30 spline shafts, ARB and ZJ disc brakes, Dana30 w/ ARB, 4:10s, AA SYE w/Teraflex shaft, BDS upper/lower control arms, Rusty's HD tie-rod, JKS quicker disco's, Poison Spyder steering box skid, Riddler diff covers, 35x12.50 MTZs on Eagle alloys, Warn M8000 winch, NoLimits4X4 stinger/rad hoop, SRC rockers, Bestop tire carrier, Raingler nets, yada yada... It's a good life. My wife doesn't look under my Jeep and I don't count her shoe boxes... |
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#35 | |
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,905
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No worries, you still don't read so well. The reason I say this is that Vanco isn't using the EBC brake pads because I'm some genius that knows all the brake pads and how well they work. I read enough reviews from folks that used them in stock applications on the TJ that they piqued my curiosity. That was enough for them to be introduced into Van's testing programs. ![]()
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I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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#36 |
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Do I need to have the stock rotors turned (after 21k miles) to install new pads? They appear to be in good condition. If not, should I clean them with brake cleaner prior to installing the new pads?
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#37 |
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Just bought the EBC Yellowstuff pads from AutoPartsWarehouse.com, when I called to check availability I insisted on ordering online and he gave me a discount to place the order with him on the phone, they were advertised for $120.74 and he brought it down to $105, I tried to work him for more but he wouldn't give, but I placed the order with him, that's by far the best deal I've been able to find on them. Figured I'd pass it on to anybody else looking to buy them or any others!
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[B][U]2001 Wrangler TJ Sport 5-Speed[/U][/B] Dana 44 Rear, 3.73 Gears, 4" ProComp Lift w/ Daystar 1 3/4" Spacer in front, Skyjacker Hydro 7000 Shocks, JKS Quicker Disconnects, 33"x12.50" Pro Comp Xtreme M/T, R.C. Adj. Front Track Bar, RR 1/4" CA Mounts, Front Aussie Locker, Front/Rear Riddlers, EBC Yellowstuff brake pads, Rokmen Power Steering Skid, Rusty's Radiator Skid, Rokmen Mercenary Front Bumper, Rokmen Mercenary Rocker Guards, Warn Engine/Oil Pan Skid, Tuff Designs Rear Tire Carrier/Bumper, Warn M8000 Winch, IPF H4 Headlight conversion w/ IPF Fatboy X55 bulbs [U]Waiting to be installed:[/U] *Rusty's Steering Box Support Brace |
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#38 |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 54,492
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I'm chomping at the bit to get a set of those yellow EBC pads but I have to stop putting more $$$ into the Jeep for a while. It's been an expensive last couple months for my Jeep according to my wife.
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Gone to King of the Hammers, back Sunday! Jerry's Geezer Jeep II Website Getting Savvy... Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine When you have a choice, buy American.
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#39 |
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Well after all of that........ I might try some as well. I've got fairly new rotors as well. I saw the run-out spec. But still question the point at which you/I need to resurface the rotors.
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04 L J Travel'n Gadget Show KE5PPH |
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#40 | |
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,905
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Quality rotors will develop a nicely burnished swept area for the life of the rotor. The swept area will develop small high and low ridges with minimal height variation between the highest and lowest points or just a bit of waviness towards the end of their useful lifespan. That's normal wear and not much of a concern. In fact, you can put on new pads and after a bit of driving, the pads will bed in nicely on a rotor in that condition. I have a set of rotors in the yard right now that were probably new on the vehicle when it was purchased. They likely have 80-90 thousand miles on them and if I needed to, I would have no issues running them again just like they are. My point in all of that is not so high quality rotors don't wear like that. They develop DTV and act like they are warped. Turning them to remove the high spots seldom lasts for more than 5-10,000 miles. My answer is, if they need turning because of some wear issue or characteristic other than grooving from debris caught in the pads, go ahead and replace them with quality rotors. Quality rotors are needed for good stopping. If you're reading this thread, you're probably not happy with your current stopping. Don't handicap that with poor quality rotors that can't be fixed by resurfacing.
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I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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#41 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Near Seattle Washington
Posts: 1,242
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An option is to take one of the rear pads off and take it (in another vehicle) to a parts store and compare brake pads until you find one the same. |
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#42 | |
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,905
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Worse is I can lay a TJ rear disc backing plate next to one from a Ford and one from a ZJ and unless you can identify the bolt patterns without measuring them and know that the ears on the TJ are slightly further apart, you won't be able to tell which is which. Here's a small example for you-See if you can tell which is which- ![]()
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I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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#43 |
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My 2¢:
Sortta apples v. oranges, but I had EBC greens on a GTI about 5 years ago and thought that they were only OK. I dumped the OEM pads on my TJ soon after lifting it. Went with Performance Friction pads and noted a big improvement in stopping distances. The pads work well cold as well as hot so the first stop of the day or the quick stop during a trail ride is uneventful. Some of the high torque pads on my cars don’t work well cold, but the Performance Friction pads do. As for a BBK on a Jeep – planning on repeated high-speed stops? |
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#44 | |||
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,905
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Quote:
The Green pads have gone through the same evolution, so I'd venture you were using the original Green Stuff street car pads and not the SUV rated 7000 series. Quote:
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#45 |
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And wheeling in low range with a 4:1 geared t-case and 5.13 gears. Watch one trying to hold on to what they've got while pointed up or down (or with some water, mud or dirt on the rotors). It tries, and lots of times succeeds, in pushing right through the brakes, no matter what pad you've got on it.
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