I just noticed today that my e-brake doesnt completely hold anymore on my 01' sport. Anybody know any common problems with the e-brakes? I'm not to mechanically inclined but if something just needs tightening up I could probably do that. Any suggestions??
Silver Metallic finish with black dual tops - Dana 44 Rear 2.25" Suspension Lift with Old Man Emu Shocks Performance Accessories 1" Body Lift Daystar 1" Motor Mount Lift Spidertrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers - 32"x11.5" MT/R Tires
I learned the hard way that TJ e-brakes are not the best when my three day old 97 backed itself down the driveway while warming up landing in a 48" drainage ditch. The brake was still fully applied when I went to get it out of the ditch, so it clearly was not adjusted properly.
The dealer was able to tighten the cable giving the lever about half the throw, but a total death grip. Of course I have no idea how to make said adjustment, but do know it can be done
is there NOT a cable under your jeep that runs down the center of the jeep. On my LJ, the cable is very easy to identify...but mine is an 06 with rear discs too...I have NO idea about your 01, just an obervation..
2006 [COLOR=Yellow]Solar YELLOW[/COLOR] UNLIMITED-6-Speed
-Rusty's 2" spring kit w/Skyjacker Hydro 7000 shocks, 1" coil spacers up front and 3/4" coil spacers in rear, 32" BFG AT KO's on Ravines
-Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers, Clear Turn Signals and Markers, Custom Front Bumper Hoop with upgraded hooks, Delta 50 Flowmaster, Code Alarm CA-670 Paging-Alarm with Motion Detector, K&N FIPK, JKS Discos, Procomp LCAs, Airaid TBS, Tuffy 055 rear section sub console, 4-Hella 500's, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Olympic Reverse-a-bars, Delta Headlight kit with black bezels, Edge Trail Jammer kit, Smittybilt Classic Tire Carrier, WARN Oil Skid, Skid Row steering skid, JKS adj. rear track bar, RC front adj. track bar.
NOTE: Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a cable tensioner. Once the tensioner is adjusted at the factory, it should not require further attention. However, there are two instances when adjustment will be required. The first is when a new tensioner, or cables have been installed. And the second, is when the tensioner and cables are disconnected for access to other brake components.
The parking brake switch is in circuit with the red warning lamp in the dash. The switch will cause the lamp to illuminate only when the parking brakes are applied. If the lamp remains on after parking brake release, the switch or wires are faulty, or cable tensioner adjustment is incorrect.
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/won't hold), can be traced to a parking brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake operation, is excessive clearance between the parking brake shoes and the shoe braking surface. Excessive clearance is a result of lining and/or drum wear, drum surface machined oversize, or inoperative adjuster components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is the result of worn brake shoes, improper brake shoe adjustment, or improperly assembled brake parts.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold, will most probably be due to a wheel brake component.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake problem, are:
Rear brake shoe wear.
Drum surface machined oversize.
Front cable not secured to lever.
Rear cable not attached to lever.
Rear cable seized.
Brake shoes reversed.
Parking brake strut not seated in shoes.
Parking brake lever not seated.
Parking brake lever bind.
Adjuster screws seized.
Adjuster screws reversed.
__________________ Richard Harvey Jr.
'04 TJ, X, 4.0, Auto, Silver, D30/D44 w/LS & 4.56's, RC 4" Series II, PA 3" BL, Advanced Adapter's TC Bracket, 15x12 Eagle Alloys 058, 15/35-15 TSL, 4x K/C DayLighters & Windshield Mounts, Ventvisor's Bugsheild, Door Sill & Window Vents, Fabtech Front Bumper & homemade Rear W/ Backup Lights, Hurculiner.
I totally rebuilt mine and they still suck. You are suppose to be able to adjust them by backing up several times and slamming on the brakes, never work for me. But there is a hole on the bottom of the backing plate that you can stick a screwdriver in and adjust by turing it..its hard to explain if you have never seen the inside of a drum brake. I'm gonna try adjusting the cable in the next couple of weeks and see if that works.
99 Green TJ SE
3" Full Traction Lift
4.88's, 33" MT's My Jeep
You can tighten the e-brake cable but thats not the solution. The bracket is roughly under jeep where the front of the backseat would be. Should have 1 cable pointing to the front of the jeep, and two heading to the rear. The adjustment bolt is on the front cable somewhere.
Do the forward-back-slam-on-the-brakes bit and that will readjust the drums properly. To keep them in spec when ever you are backing up always hit the brakes hard rather then just coasting to a stop.
Depending how many miles you have your shoes could be warn. Mine did this around 38k and the auto adjustment fixed it pretty much
I knew they could be adjusted. Depending on the amount of miles you have on those current set of brakes, time for replace, or adjust them. They can get mucky from mud and not adjust it if theres not alot of mile on those brakes.
2004 LJ*RIP Love * Ex-Wife Stole you and Sold you *Current 1999 XJ Heep