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Durango Alternator Swap with pictures!

146K views 151 replies 75 participants last post by  Knuckelhead 
#1 ·
So I finally got round to swapping out my boring old stock alternator (LJ 2005) for a sexy new(used) 160Amp Alternator from a 2002 Durango.


The stock alternator is on the left and the durangolt's is on the left, despite the size difference it is a direct bolt in replacement.


Safety 1st, safety 2nd, I disconnected the +ve lead from the battery and secured it out the way with the battery tie down, now my only danger was the scorching sun.
I had replaced the stock battery 2 days ago for a Bond platinum 34/78 (1090 CCA! for under $100), which is why it is the only clean thing under the hood.


With the power disconnected I removed the alternators 2 wire plug and the power cable that leads from the alternator to the +ve battery terminal


Time to take the fan belt off, I'm glad I put a flexilite fan in, now I have room to work!


The tensioner has a 1/2" socket so it is a peice of cake to release the tension with a socket wrench and slip the belt off the idler.

Undoing the two bolts (15mm) that held the stock alternator was the hardest part of the job (they were on good), it took 20 minutes of cursing and soaking in PB blaster be they relented.

A further 10 minutes of cursing ensued as I tried to get the new alternator to fit on to the mounting bracket, it would almost go but I could not get the bolt through....


Then I noticed this, the bottom mount has a sort of nut-sert thing on it that held the bolts thread and it was stick out on the inside too far!, 30 seconds later I had tapped it out all of 1/16" and bingo! everything lined up!

I tightened everything down good an solid reattached the cables to the new alternator and the battery, re-fed the fan belt, then with crossed fingers jumped into the cab and started her up.
It's always a good feeling when not only does the engine start but it runs and there are no loud bangs or screeches. :)

I've done a couple of tests with the 1500W inverter running an 800W drill and I can run it alot longer and harder before the voltage drop alarm goes off!

Comming soon(ish) Dual battery install write up and a winch install!
 
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#2 ·
ive heard of this swap, what are the advantages of it? i know it has a higher power output but is it needed? i have a winch running of a optima yellowtop and runs great. is this swap mostly for people running a lot of electronic extras?
 
#3 ·
wow ... I wish I could get one too :drool:

last night drive with all my four KC highlites (130W x 4) I had a low voltage alarm after having my car idling for 15-20 minutes or so with the complete lightning on ...

after switching the auxiliary lightning off and driving for a while the voltage was back again :cool:

my stock alternator is not providing enough at 700 rpm :rolleyes:

so the question now is : does the durango alternator provide much more at low rpms as well ?
 
#7 ·
I'd like to know the voltage output at idle as well. There could potentially be some adjustment with swapping pulley sizes, but I'm not sure how much. If anyone has the idle output numbers, please post them.
 
#8 ·
I bought my alternator from ebay used (30,000 miles), I paid $30+$12 shipping. According to the dash I am sitting pretty much on the 14V marker, I'll have to stick the multimeter in the lighter port and get a precise reading.

A 160A alternator will put out more power at any RPM range than a 90A (stock) alternator.
 
#10 ·
Here ya go. 165 amp direct bolt in. No modifications required. These, from what I understand, are stock alternators that are rewound and rebuilt to a higher output so they bolt right in. Excellent warranty as well. "WE GIVE YOU A LIFETIME WARRANTY!" Great people. $150. Got one 8 years ago and no problems so far. It's great.

91-98 NEW JEEP CHEROKEE YJ/TJ HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR 165A

1-800-607-0016 (Dallas, TX) and I'd guess they might answer the above questions about the required wiring and output at idle.
 
#14 · (Edited)
From 04-06 Jeep changed to a different alternator which was typically rated at 117 Amps, voltage output at idle should not change because this is controlled by the internal regulator, the real difference is how much amperage load it will handle at a given rpm to maintain acceptable voltage before alarms go off. If you run a winch you will exceed the amperage capacity of an alternator and draw the additional amps from the battery during a pull, once the amperage drain depletes the battery reserves voltage will begin to drop setting off the low voltage alarm. With more amperage capacity from the alternator your pulling less amps from the battery during a pull so the battery will drain less over the duration of a pull. Amperage draw specs for your winch can be found in the mfg specs and varies depending on load and how many layers (wraps) are on the drum. Here are the specs on a Warn 9.5ti Winch to give an idea how much amperage (current) the winch motor will draw off the electrical system. Any line pull over 2000lbs will max out a 160 amp alternator and begin draining the battery. This means anyone with a winch will benefit by upgrading the alternator.

Timberwolf0122, I've been looking through salvage yards for my 06 alternator upgrade but there are many different part #'s used on the Dodge trucks, could you please post the part number on your 05 upgrade? I'm not sure if my current part # is correct but I can cross reference them?

(136A Alternator from 97-98 ZJ, Dakota, Durango, Ram (PN:56027913) fits 97-03 Wrangler)
(04-06 Durango with 4.7/160A (PN:56029914AA), fits 04-06 Wrangler)

WARN 9.5ti Line Pull Lbs. to motor current load rating.
0 lbs = 47 amps
2000 lbs at layer 1 = 160 amps
4000 lbs at layer 2 = 230 amps
6000 lbs at layer 3 = 305 amps
8000 lbs at layer 4 = 370 amps
9500 lbs at layer 5 = 425 amps
 
#18 ·
From 04-06 Jeep changed to a different alternator which was typically rated at 117 Amps, voltage output at idle should not change because this is controlled by the internal regulator, the real difference is how much amperage load it will handle at a given rpm to maintain acceptable voltage before alarms go off. If you run a winch you will exceed the amperage capacity of an alternator and draw the additional amps from the battery during a pull, once the amperage drain depletes the battery reserves voltage will begin to drop setting off the low voltage alarm. With more amperage capacity from the alternator your pulling less amps from the battery during a pull so the battery will drain less over the duration of a pull. Amperage draw specs for your winch can be found in the mfg specs and varies depending on load and how many layers (wraps) are on the drum. Here are the specs on a Warn 9.5ti Winch to give an idea how much amperage (current) the winch motor will draw off the electrical system. Any line pull over 2000lbs will max out a 160 amp alternator and begin draining the battery. This means anyone with a winch will benefit by upgrading the alternator.

Timberwolf0122, I've been looking through salvage yards for my 06 alternator upgrade but there are many different part #'s used on the Dodge trucks, could you please post the part number on your 05 upgrade? I'm not sure if my current part # is correct but I can cross reference them?

(136A Alternator from 97-98 ZJ, Dakota, Durango, Ram (PN:56027913) for 97-03 Wrangler)
(04-06 Durango with 4.7/160A (PN:56029914AA), for an 04-06 Wrangler)

WARN 9.5ti Line Pull Lbs. to motor current load rating.
0 lbs = 47 amps
2000 lbs at layer 1 = 160 amps
4000 lbs at layer 2 = 230 amps
6000 lbs at layer 3 = 305 amps
8000 lbs at layer 4 = 370 amps
9500 lbs at layer 5 = 425 amps
I have a 160 amp in mine, and it is from an 04 Durnango, 4.7, so you should be good with the number you have. It will have an extra arm on it, on the top. Clearance around your coil pack could be very close, so you may need to cut that arm off. I didn't have to on mine, I have @ 1/8th" around it.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks Chris, I think that extra arm was the reason I passed them up at the salvage yard.

Jake89, I don't have any info prior to 91 but keep researching it.

I found some additional info for 04-06 TJ upgrades:

160 Amp

2001-2005 Dodge Dakota (PN:56029914AA)
2001-2005 Dodge B.Series Van (PN:56029914AA)
.
.
 
#23 ·
I've done this swap to my LJ. I can run the headlights, the heater on high, the rear window defrost and front and back wipers. At idle, just over 14 volts.

Still at idle, with everything running,when my flex-a-lite fan kicks in, the lights dim for a split-second and my guage goes back up to just over 14 volts.

It is a definate improvement over the stock alternator, as I would show a voltage drop to 10 or 11 volts with the accessories running. This was before the electric fan, which I installed that at the same time as the alternator.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Got an aftermarket equivalent (56027913) from seller dbelectrical on
ebay and had my mechanic install it today (1997 TJ).
He swapped the pulley and the plastic connector from the old one
and it was a bolt in deal after that. The stock alternator in my TJ
was an 81 amp and wasn't cutting the mustard in the winter when
running the snowplow, lights, heat, and wipers in zero degree temps.
Already have an Optima yellow top so this should yield a nice
improvement.
pic of the new alternator:
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the write up, dual batteries on on my to do list so an alternator swap is too. I just have one issue to take up with you:


Safety 1st, safety 2nd, I disconnected the +ve lead from the battery and secured it out the way with the battery tie down, now my only danger was the scorching sun.
Safety 3rd, disconnect the negative terminal first! With the chassis being grounded, your wrench on the (+) terminal and the entire jeep have 12 volts potential difference. If you disconnect the ground first you have no reason to worry because the wrench and chassis are at the same potential. Once that's off THEN the hot lead can be safely remove without worry. I have a 9/16th wrench with a burn mark from a 24 V system that reminds me of this lesson every time I use it...
 
#36 ·
I went ahead and bought the 160AMP alternator for my 05 Rubicon, but it's nice to know that it will also work in my 04 Grand Cherokee as an upgrade to the 132AMP alternator! So if I don't like how it fits on the Rubicon I can just slap it into the Grand Cherokee. Since my OEM Alternator on the Rubicon is 117AMP should I still upgrade the wire running to the battery?
 
#39 ·
I just did this upgrade on my 05 LJ last week. I used the 01 to 06 Durango 160A alternator. I cut the extra arm off with a sawzall. It is completely plug and play. I went ahead and replaced the 2 negative cables coming from the battery to the firewall and block with 49" and 32" 4 gauge battery cables that were premade and on the shelf at Auto Zone. I also changed the positive wire from the alternator to the battery with an new 2 gauge cable. The stock positive wire has a fuse link in it. I purchased a 200A fuse holder with digital meter on ebay to replace the fuse link. The only time my dash voltmeter moves now is when the electric fan kicks on. This is a must upgrade if you decide to add anything that will pull more voltage.
 
#55 ·
Great info above Unlimitedlou. I have a 2005 TJ and would like to do this mod as well.

Could you tell me a little more about the 200 amp fuse holder w/ digital meter & why you set it up this way? A picture would be best for my brain. :D

Also, if you don't mind, could you point me to the ebay seller's product?
 
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