Durango Alternator Swap with pictures! - Page 7 - JeepForum.com

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post #91 of 152 Old 03-16-2013, 03:48 PM
George Dickel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajamant View Post
Just found this link in the electrical section: their use is for stereo equipment but the concept is sound. It's called "The Big 3" and there's a decent write-up here:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1
This link might ought to end up as a Sticky. I know I just copy/pasted/saved it for the future! Also gave thanks to Ajamant for posting it.


'98 Wrangler Sport, 4.6L Stroker
12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, 5.875" Connecting Rods, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Ford Blue-top Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Accel Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust, Balanced Rotating Assembly, Custom PCM tune.
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post #92 of 152 Old 03-17-2013, 08:30 PM
CaveyDM
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Great thread on Alternator Swaps!

Best Regards,
Dale

2006 2DR LJ RUBICON UNLIMITED / Old Man Emu (OME) 2.5" HD Lift / ARB Quadratec Edition Front Stubby / LOD Signature Series Rear Bumper & T/C

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post #93 of 152 Old 03-18-2013, 02:37 PM
aparke4
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Originally Posted by ericxj1999 View Post
I'm running one from a 2007 Chrysler aspen on my 2000 tj 2.5 160a no modification paid 30 at the junk yard I'm pretty sure is stock on liberty as well
awesome!!! something for us 2.5 4 bangers!!

edit: did you upgrade any cables? I found some cheap and easy pre made 2 gauge at the local parts store- with terminals for about 20 bucks for 3 feet...

I have a 2001 TJ 2.5 and am going to pick one up today and bolt her up!

according to rock auto:

ACDELCO Part # 3342716

CHRYSLER ASPEN (2007 - 2009)
DODGE DURANGO (2007 - 2009)
DODGE NITRO (2007 - 2010)
JEEP COMMANDER (2007 - 2010)
JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE (2007 - 2010)
JEEP LIBERTY (2007 - 2009)
RAM 1500 2011

and a ebay chart for a 70 dollar used part:

ASPEN 07-08 (160 amp), 5.7L
ASPEN 09 (160 amp), 5.7L (exc hybrid)
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 03-05 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 08 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 09-11 5.7L
DODGE 2500 PICKUP 03-08 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 2500 PICKUP 10-11 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 3500 PICKUP 03-08 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 3500 PICKUP 11 cab & ch, 5.7L, 160 amp
DURANGO 04-09 5.7L
NITRO 07-10 4.0L
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post #94 of 152 Old 12-22-2013, 10:01 AM
WoodTwister
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Thanks

I need to do this..
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post #95 of 152 Old 12-22-2013, 10:29 AM
Ironhead
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Originally Posted by George Dickel View Post
This link might ought to end up as a Sticky. I know I just copy/pasted/saved it for the future! Also gave thanks to Ajamant for posting it.
but it has nothing about protecting your wiring from the higher output of the new alternator.

a lot of people talk about upgrading the wiring but dont mention much about replacing the fusible link between the alt and battery.

does anyone have an in-depth write up on upgraded wiring and fuse/fusible link?


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post #96 of 152 Old 12-22-2013, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
but it has nothing about protecting your wiring from the higher output of the new alternator.

a lot of people talk about upgrading the wiring but dont mention much about replacing the fusible link between the alt and battery.

does anyone have an in-depth write up on upgraded wiring and fuse/fusible link?
There are a few write-ups on the fusible link, the 10 AWG link should be used to protect the circuitry in your TJ... IMO
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post #97 of 152 Old 12-23-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
a lot of people talk about upgrading the wiring but dont mention much about replacing the fusible link between the alt and battery.

does anyone have an in-depth write up on upgraded wiring and fuse/fusible link?
No info on fusible link except I did mine in March of 2010 in my '98 and have not had any issues with the wiring. The output is more like 140 amps on the Durango alternator I installed. Not sure if the difference is a mistake or if there are two bolt up Durango alternators available, a 160 and a 140.

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post #98 of 152 Old 12-23-2013, 09:33 PM
smccollamjr
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The fuse able link will protect the wiring. As long as you don't pull more amps than the link is good for, you should be fine with you're old wiring.

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post #99 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStMarie View Post
No info on fusible link except I did mine in March of 2010 in my '98 and have not had any issues with the wiring. The output is more like 140 amps on the Durango alternator I installed. Not sure if the difference is a mistake or if there are two bolt up Durango alternators available, a 160 and a 140.
Yes, there is a 135A version and a 160A version.
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post #100 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 09:16 AM
Ironhead
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Originally Posted by smccollamjr View Post
The fuse able link will protect the wiring. As long as you don't pull more amps than the link is good for, you should be fine with you're old wiring.
knucklehead and i have had this convo before. it makes sense to replace the fusible link with between the alt and battery with a 10 awg fusible link.

my question was, can the 160 alt put out more power than the 10 awg fusible link can handle?

would it make more sense to put the fusible link between the battery and PDC?


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post #101 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 09:55 AM
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Small addition: I also replaced the stock 90A alternator with a 160A Durango unit used in my '97 TJ SE. I had to fab a little piece to get it connected but it bolted up fine iirc. I ran that setup without addressing the wiring (didn't know it was an issue) from 2000-2006 or so and never had any problems.
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post #102 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 10:54 AM
Ironhead
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Originally Posted by adkfinn View Post
I ran that setup without addressing the wiring (didn't know it was an issue) from 2000-2006 or so and never had any problems.
and that is very possible, but its like driving a car without a seat belt. as long as everything goes ok, its fine, but when something goes wrong, it can be very bad

in this case, the alt could throw out too much power and destroy your vehicles wiring harness and/or PDC.

just not a risk i'm willing to take when doing this upgrade


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post #103 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
and that is very possible, but its like driving a car without a seat belt. as long as everything goes ok, its fine, but when something goes wrong, it can be very bad

in this case, the alt could throw out too much power and destroy your vehicles wiring harness and/or PDC.

just not a risk i'm willing to take when doing this upgrade
Agreed. This thread is the first I've heard of the wiring not being up to the job with the 160A alt, but if it is an risk/issue it should be addressed.
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post #104 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
and that is very possible, but its like driving a car without a seat belt. as long as everything goes ok, its fine, but when something goes wrong, it can be very bad

in this case, the alt could throw out too much power and destroy your vehicles wiring harness and/or PDC.

just not a risk i'm willing to take when doing this upgrade
The alternator doesn't throw out power. You would need a load to use the power the alternator has. If you have no load other than the regular electronic stuff there is no problem. But, you add on driving lights amps for your radio a winch then you will be using the amps the alternator can provide. This is where you would want to upgrade the alternator and the wires in that circuit. You do need the fusable link, but I'd think that if you had a fast blowing fuse inline that would also work.
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post #105 of 152 Old 12-24-2013, 11:09 AM
Ironhead
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Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
The alternator doesn't throw out power. You would need a load to use the power the alternator has. If you have no load other than the regular electronic stuff there is no problem. But, you add on driving lights amps for your radio a winch then you will be using the amps the alternator can provide. This is where you would want to upgrade the alternator and the wires in that circuit. You do need the fusable link, but I'd think that if you had a fast blowing fuse inline that would also work.
correct, and i shouldnt have used that terminology. I did because the max output of a 160a alt should be 160a, but what if it malfunctions during a winch pull and has more than 160a draw off it?

this kind of hits my end goal though. i do have a rather higher amp draw winch (warn 9.5ti) and two stereo amps. both systems are wired directly to my battery. the stereo amps have a 100a in-line fuse in the main power feed.

would a high amp draw winch be able to pull more power than a 10 awg fusible link can handle?

would there be any downside to putting the fusible link between the battery and PDC?

knucklehead linked an article in another thread that went over fusible links in good detail. it outlined why it is not a good idea to replace a fusible link with a fuse or breaker, as was my original idea


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