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Durango Alternator Swap with pictures!

146K views 151 replies 75 participants last post by  Knuckelhead 
#1 ·
So I finally got round to swapping out my boring old stock alternator (LJ 2005) for a sexy new(used) 160Amp Alternator from a 2002 Durango.


The stock alternator is on the left and the durangolt's is on the left, despite the size difference it is a direct bolt in replacement.


Safety 1st, safety 2nd, I disconnected the +ve lead from the battery and secured it out the way with the battery tie down, now my only danger was the scorching sun.
I had replaced the stock battery 2 days ago for a Bond platinum 34/78 (1090 CCA! for under $100), which is why it is the only clean thing under the hood.


With the power disconnected I removed the alternators 2 wire plug and the power cable that leads from the alternator to the +ve battery terminal


Time to take the fan belt off, I'm glad I put a flexilite fan in, now I have room to work!


The tensioner has a 1/2" socket so it is a peice of cake to release the tension with a socket wrench and slip the belt off the idler.

Undoing the two bolts (15mm) that held the stock alternator was the hardest part of the job (they were on good), it took 20 minutes of cursing and soaking in PB blaster be they relented.

A further 10 minutes of cursing ensued as I tried to get the new alternator to fit on to the mounting bracket, it would almost go but I could not get the bolt through....


Then I noticed this, the bottom mount has a sort of nut-sert thing on it that held the bolts thread and it was stick out on the inside too far!, 30 seconds later I had tapped it out all of 1/16" and bingo! everything lined up!

I tightened everything down good an solid reattached the cables to the new alternator and the battery, re-fed the fan belt, then with crossed fingers jumped into the cab and started her up.
It's always a good feeling when not only does the engine start but it runs and there are no loud bangs or screeches. :)

I've done a couple of tests with the 1500W inverter running an 800W drill and I can run it alot longer and harder before the voltage drop alarm goes off!

Comming soon(ish) Dual battery install write up and a winch install!
 
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#71 ·
#91 ·
This link might ought to end up as a Sticky. I know I just copy/pasted/saved it for the future! Also gave thanks to Ajamant for posting it. :thumbsup:
 
#75 ·
Just installed one of these today. Lost the alternator on the way home from work and drove to Advance Auto Parts in the morning. Swapped it in the parking lot in about thirty minutes. Only fitment issue was I needed to file the bottom rear nut insert. Need to get a proper fuse setup in there now.
 
#78 ·
is this confirmed to work on a 2.5l?
I've got to get it outta the parking lot it is stuck in tomorrow - and an upgrade instead of a stock replacement is always ok by me :)
 
#79 ·
so its been while since this thread was started but just to confirm the 136amp will bolt on to my 98 4.0 with out a problem i should just upgrade the wiring? hows everyones doing now a days?
 
#80 · (Edited)
Just stopped my my local oriley's and picked up one of these alternators. Installation supper easy, but I noticed that my belt is now very tight (larger alternator?) The little tentioning wheel is almost all the way pressed back just under normal use. My idle speed also rose about 200rpm after the upgrade. Is that normal? Or is the belt to tight? Should I get a larger belt to accommodate the new alternator?



I would also like to know if it is reccomended to upgrade the stock 8awg wire to something more like 4awg, or even 2awg.

Thank you!
 

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#81 ·
I installed a 136 amp unit I picked up from advanced auto for a 98 dakota on my 98 4.0 about 2 weeks ago. The stocker finally crapped out on me. Fit just like the stock one... and now my dome light doesn't flicker when my seat heaters are on. Guess she needed the extra juice. I was too lazy to swap the pully, the belt just rides towards the back of the pulley with no problem. Didn't notice an rpm change or belt tensioner problems kjmccar - not sure if we have the same tensioning mechanism though. The wiring only needs to change if you are using accessories that require the full output of the alternator... it doesn;t put out 136 amps all the time, it puts out the load that is called for.
 
#85 ·
#87 ·
Wanted to give an update on my specific jeep. 2003 wrangler. The 160 amp fit like a glove and can be had from autozone for cheaper then advanced auto after the core. And my local store had one laying around. Wanted to update because I, like many others, try to find a specific example of a certain year model. Well here it is. It works just fine. Thanks everyone

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...jm4wuZ93xme?itemIdentifier=784190_23521_4453_
 
#93 ·
awesome!!! something for us 2.5 4 bangers!!

edit: did you upgrade any cables? I found some cheap and easy pre made 2 gauge at the local parts store- with terminals for about 20 bucks for 3 feet...

I have a 2001 TJ 2.5 and am going to pick one up today and bolt her up!

according to rock auto:

ACDELCO Part # 3342716

CHRYSLER ASPEN (2007 - 2009)
DODGE DURANGO (2007 - 2009)
DODGE NITRO (2007 - 2010)
JEEP COMMANDER (2007 - 2010)
JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE (2007 - 2010)
JEEP LIBERTY (2007 - 2009)
RAM 1500 2011

and a ebay chart for a 70 dollar used part:

ASPEN 07-08 (160 amp), 5.7L
ASPEN 09 (160 amp), 5.7L (exc hybrid)
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 03-05 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 08 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 09-11 5.7L
DODGE 2500 PICKUP 03-08 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 2500 PICKUP 10-11 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 3500 PICKUP 03-08 5.7L, 160 amp
DODGE 3500 PICKUP 11 cab & ch, 5.7L, 160 amp
DURANGO 04-09 5.7L
NITRO 07-10 4.0L
 
#92 ·
Great thread on Alternator Swaps! :thumbsup:
 
#97 ·
a lot of people talk about upgrading the wiring but dont mention much about replacing the fusible link between the alt and battery.

does anyone have an in-depth write up on upgraded wiring and fuse/fusible link?
No info on fusible link except I did mine in March of 2010 in my '98 and have not had any issues with the wiring. The output is more like 140 amps on the Durango alternator I installed. Not sure if the difference is a mistake or if there are two bolt up Durango alternators available, a 160 and a 140.
 
#98 ·
The fuse able link will protect the wiring. As long as you don't pull more amps than the link is good for, you should be fine with you're old wiring.
 
#100 ·
knucklehead and i have had this convo before. it makes sense to replace the fusible link with between the alt and battery with a 10 awg fusible link.

my question was, can the 160 alt put out more power than the 10 awg fusible link can handle?

would it make more sense to put the fusible link between the battery and PDC?
 
#101 ·
Small addition: I also replaced the stock 90A alternator with a 160A Durango unit used in my '97 TJ SE. I had to fab a little piece to get it connected but it bolted up fine iirc. I ran that setup without addressing the wiring (didn't know it was an issue) from 2000-2006 or so and never had any problems.
 
#102 ·
I ran that setup without addressing the wiring (didn't know it was an issue) from 2000-2006 or so and never had any problems.
and that is very possible, but its like driving a car without a seat belt. as long as everything goes ok, its fine, but when something goes wrong, it can be very bad

in this case, the alt could throw out too much power and destroy your vehicles wiring harness and/or PDC.

just not a risk i'm willing to take when doing this upgrade
 
#110 ·
In any electrical circuit, if you replace an existing fuse with one rated to handle higher current then the circuit then must handle that same higher current. During a spike in current, against which the fuse protects you, the circuits wiring must handle the higher current before the fuse finally opens, cutting off current. If the wiring is not rated to handle this higher current it can fail.

If you replace the fusible link that is protecting the wiring with a higher rated fusible link, then the wiring itself should also be replaced. If you do NOT replace the wiring itself, then you are better off keeping the lower rated fusible link because at least you can count on it opening (blowing) before you fry your wiring.

Clear as mud? :thumbsup:
 
#112 ·
i agree with your first statement, but maybe not your second.

the alt could be too powerful for your wiring harness, which is probable, but a winch can pull far more power than a 160a alt can supply and the 4 awg cables going to it can handle more than what a 10 awg fusible link can withstand. so why put the weak link between your alt and winch when it could go after that point in the system and just protect the wiring?
 
#117 ·
JStMarie said:
In any electrical circuit, if you replace an existing fuse with one rated to handle higher current then the circuit then must handle that same higher current. During a spike in current, against which the fuse protects you, the circuits wiring must handle the higher current before the fuse finally opens, cutting off current. If the wiring is not rated to handle this higher current it can fail. If you replace the fusible link that is protecting the wiring with a higher rated fusible link, then the wiring itself should also be replaced. If you do NOT replace the wiring itself, then you are better off keeping the lower rated fusible link because at least you can count on it opening (blowing) before you fry your wiring. Clear as mud? :thumbsup:
^^^This^^^
Is what I was getting at.
 
#118 ·
It sounds like you're all getting a learning experience from this thread.

I commended you all for not turning this into a slugfest and being very helpful to the forum. You're all being very helpful on a topic that that is often misunderstood by many attempting to tackle this upgrade.

Merry Christmas... :thumbsup:

Edit: A :thumbsup: to Ironhead and JBTJ for keeping things on topic...
 
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