Durango Alternator Swap with pictures! - Page 10 - JeepForum.com

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post #136 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 08:15 AM
D0T-C0M
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Electrically it makes no difference if they had connected the end of the fusible link coming from the alternator to the battery positive post. They probably wanted to have less wires as possible going to the battery.

BTW the starter wire doesn't need to be changed but it doesn't hurt. It is not affected by the increase in alternator current.

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post #137 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by D0T-C0M View Post
electrically it makes no difference if they had connected the end of the fusible link coming from the alternator to the battery positive post. They probably wanted to have less wires as possible going to the battery.
thats all i could think of too
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post #138 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 08:31 AM
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This is a very important and potentially dangerous mod if not done correctly. Just imagine someone with dual 1000 cranking amp batteries, you could have 2000 amps flowing into a faulted alternator. That's some serious current. People don't realize that the fusible link isn't sized to blow at a certain amperage. Its function is to run cool at max alternator current but under short circuit conditions where the fault current is 3 or 4 times that max alternator current its designed to melt. If you run a 10AWG designed for a (117-130a) alternator than it will run hotter and probably beyond the conductor's rated temperature rise spec which can lead to insulation failure over time as it becomes brittle. That is why you also need to increase the fusible link to 8AWG for a 150-190 amp alternator.
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post #139 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 09:21 AM
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Thank you both for this discussion. I have been following yall and have learned a lot. I have been wanting to do this mod for some time to compensate for my winch but wasn't sure how to actually upgrade my harness.

Live Free,
Brad
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post #140 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D0T-C0M
This is a very important and potentially dangerous mod if not done correctly. Just imagine someone with dual 1000 cranking amp batteries, you could have 2000 amps flowing into a faulted alternator. That's some serious current. People don't realize that the fusible link isn't sized to blow at a certain amperage. Its function is to run cool at max alternator current but under short circuit conditions where the fault current is 3 or 4 times that max alternator current its designed to melt. If you run a 10AWG designed for a (117-130a) alternator than it will run hotter and probably beyond the conductor's rated temperature rise spec which can lead to insulation failure over time as it becomes brittle. That is why you also need to increase the fusible link to 8AWG for a 150-190 amp alternator.
What length of the 8 gauge fusible link should you use, just match it to the factory 10 gauge link? And you just solder the fusible link to the main 4 gauge wire, correct?

My alternator was making death noises so I recently replaced it with the Durango. Still running the stock wiring for now, but wanted to upgrade it the correct way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbradUSMC
Thank you both for this discussion. I have been following yall and have learned a lot. I have been wanting to do this mod for some time to compensate for my winch but wasn't sure how to actually upgrade my harness. Live Free, Brad
I agree! I know very little when it comes to electrical.
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post #141 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 10:30 AM
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Use the same length of fusible link as the 10AWG had and the fusible link needs to be cross crimped (one wire over the other, not end to end) not soldered as the solder has a lower melting point than the copper wire. After crimping use a shrink tube to insulate just the crimp and overlapping about an inch or so on each side. It might be easier just to rob the wiring off a scraped Jeep Libery or durango as I haven't been successful finding a supplier that will sell under a reel of fusible link wire. Anyone have any links?
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post #142 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by D0T-C0M
Use the same length of fusible link as the 10AWG had and the fusible link needs to be cross crimped (one wire over the other, not end to end) not soldered as the solder has a lower melting point than the copper wire. After crimping use a shrink tube to insulate just the crimp and overlapping about an inch or so on each side. It might be easier just to rob the wiring off a scraped Jeep Libery or durango as I haven't been successful finding a supplier that will sell under a reel of fusible link wire. Anyone have any links?
Thank you for all the info. I see that $70 reel of 25 ft fusible link, but no one readily sells smaller pieces. Just might be easier to go the jy route as you mentioned. However, I did find these two links. I haven't tried them before though.

http://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=j156-awg8

http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-service.shtml
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post #143 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 06:29 PM
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Yeah I emailed the companies in the both links yesterday and haven't heard back from them. It would be helpful for everyone if we had a supplier for these links as many people are upgrading their alternators.
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post #144 of 152 Old 03-27-2014, 08:06 PM
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Do we have a confirmation that this will work on a TJ sport 4.0L that predates 00?? This seems like a great idea for an upgrade but after reading this and doing a bit of searching I cannot find a definite answer. If you can do this is the durango 01-06 still the donor @160amps?
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post #145 of 152 Old 03-28-2014, 05:39 AM
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Do we have a confirmation that this will work on a TJ sport 4.0L that predates 00?? This seems like a great idea for an upgrade but after reading this and doing a bit of searching I cannot find a definite answer. If you can do this is the durango 01-06 still the donor @160amps?
How many wires on the alternator plug on your 97? I didn't specifically research that but seems to me I read something about the voltage regulator being internal to the alternator on the older models. Regardless of the plug in or if the regulator is in the alternator, All that would be requires is to install an external voltage regulator which is pretty simple and get a new plug-in if its different. Its doable just a little more work. I am pretty sure the alternator bolts in but don't quote me on it
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post #146 of 152 Old 02-13-2016, 11:19 PM
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bump
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post #147 of 152 Old 02-14-2016, 04:23 AM
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raif281 why the bump buddy? Did you need more information?
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post #148 of 152 Old 02-14-2016, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by D0T-C0M
raif281 why the bump buddy? Did you need more information?
nahh bud I was reading it through link off the internet. so I bumped it so it would show up in my subscribed and I can read it later as I believe my alternator is going out.
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post #149 of 152 Old 02-14-2016, 07:45 PM
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nahh bud I was reading it through link off the internet. so I bumped it so it would show up in my subscribed and I can read it later as I believe my alternator is going out.
In case anybody else doesn't know, you can subscribe to a thread without responding to it. On the actual website, open the "Thread Tools" tab (located just below and to the right of the Crawl This Thread button), then click on "Subscribe to this Thread". In the JeepForum App, tap the icon in the upper right that looks like a box with an arrow coming out of it, a popup menu will then offer a button choice for "Subscribe to Thread".


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post #150 of 152 Old 02-14-2016, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mukluk
In case anybody else doesn't know, you can subscribe to a thread without responding to it. On the actual website, open the "Thread Tools" tab (located just below and to the right of the Crawl This Thread button), then click on "Subscribe to this Thread". In the JeepForum App, tap the icon in the upper right that looks like a box with an arrow coming out of it, a popup menu will then offer a button choice for "Subscribe to Thread".

tried that before and it doesn't show up on the app under subscribed unless someone comments on it. which is why I commented on it
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