driveshaft problem with 4'' inch - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-11-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
mattymac712
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driveshaft problem with 4'' inch

i was wondering what I should do, Im told that my front driveshaft is now too long because I lifted my jeep. i put a four inch lift in with 33's. What happened was is that i was getting this wicked squeking noise every revolution of the driveshaft it seemed. My mechanic told me that the joints in the driveshaft were junk and that it might be worth it to get a new driveshaft instead of having those joints replaced, because it could just happen again potentially. Does it make sense that the front driveshaft could be too long now that the vehicle is lifted? Would a longer driveshaft and a slip yoke correct this problem? does the rear driveshaft need to be addressed also???

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post #2 of 15 Old 09-11-2013, 05:24 PM
TanTJ04
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No need for a longer driveshaft. Replace the cv-joint and new u-joints!
There is already a fixed yoke on the front output of the transfer case.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-5.htm

Ohh... and I'd find a better mechanic.

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The 4.0 is like that fat guy who will eat mac and cheese that has been on the stove for three days; eats it and wont look back!
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-11-2013, 05:25 PM
T2000J
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You should do a SYE and new shaft for the rear but the front should be fine I ran my stock front shaft for a year with my 4" .
Look up angry Sparrows the front shaft is already a fixed .
Dose he have your caster right ?
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-1.htm
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-11-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanTJ04 View Post
Ohh... and I'd find a better mechanic.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-11-2013, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TanTJ04 View Post
Ohh... and I'd find a better mechanic.
x3

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post #6 of 15 Old 09-11-2013, 08:43 PM
Jaminjer
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wouldnt raising the vehicle make the drive shaft shorter?
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-12-2013, 01:19 AM
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Suspension travel is in a radius.... more down travel from longer shocks makes the front shaft to LONG @ full droop on short arms when the axle is hanging from the rig. For example, when your tech had the jeep on the post lift to remove the shaft, it has to be pryed out or have the axle jacked up a few inches to remove it from the diff yoke....

Nothing wrong with your mechanic, just needs to learn to use a jack or pull the shaft with the tires on the ground.

It is a problem if you are jumping your jeep.. if it doesn't get jumped, put new joints in the factory shaft.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #8 of 15 Old 09-12-2013, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
Nothing wrong with your mechanic, just needs to learn to use a jack or pull the shaft with the tires on the ground.
He suggested buying a new driveshaft to cure angry sparrows?!? Yeah, spend $300 on a new shaft instead of $90 for a new CV and u-joints.

And a stock driveshaft is fine length wise on a 4" lift, (like stated though) long travel shocks cause an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriswj View Post
The 4.0 is like that fat guy who will eat mac and cheese that has been on the stove for three days; eats it and wont look back!
2004 TJ X 5spd, 30-Aussie locker and Chromo'd, 44-lsd & disc brakes, 4" Currie lift, Anti-rock, 1.25" bl, UCF 1" skid & Lo-pro mount, AA SYE, JKS MML, ZJ V8 Tierod, JKS Trackbars, smittybuilt winch w/ synthetic line, Caravan fuel injectors, CAI, TB spacer, flowmaster 44 2.5", 35x12.50x15 km2, 7" fenders, uniden cb
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanTJ04 View Post

He suggested buying a new driveshaft to cure angry sparrows?!? Yeah, spend $300 on a new shaft instead of $90 for a new CV and u-joints.

And a stock driveshaft is fine length wise on a 4" lift, (like stated though) long travel shocks cause an issue.
10" travel shocks not just long travel, on the front of a tj will bottom out the slip joints and use the t-case as a bumpstop. Some 2.5" and 3.5" lifts run 10" travel shocks.

The mechanic, was not wrong, it is too long for the current application.
Some of us choose to run them anyway. When the OP decides to jump his jeep or accidently takes a woop to fast, the OP could likely be replacing a t-case instead of a couple u-joints.
When a shaft is too long, shorten it. The cost is minimal compared to a shaft that is too short or buying all new joint and cv's unless they are toast anyhow, or replacing the joints and buying a long arm upgrade to avoid a correct length shaft to run on the current short arms... or buy a set of shorter shocks.

Shops are not open to help the do-it-yourself crowd. They are there to make money so the doors can stay open. When I myself can get away with selling parts instead of spending hours I can't legitimately charge for pollishing a turd, I do so.

Occasionally, I will screw up a seal putting together a spicer joint. Guess who gets to buy the second one?... ya, me, what might happen if I knowngly install a shaft that is too long and the rig comes back with a busted t-case?
BTW, I have a 241 case that is busted, wonder how that happend?

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #10 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 06:12 PM
TanTJ04
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So a shorter driveshaft is the answer? How is a stock shaft fine with stock arms? Most lifts have longer control arms to reposition the axle close to stock. Does the arc of the wheel change that much? I never heard any of this, not trying to start but I'm confused. Sure the cv binds at full droop, but how is that related to the driveshaft being long? The cv location and angle of the driveshaft are still staying the same. Please explain?

And, I understand about shops making money. They still charge by the hour for labor so fixing a driveshaft would generate more profit for a shop instead of uninstalling/reinstalling a driveshaft.

Jeeps shouldn't be jumped either! Lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriswj View Post
The 4.0 is like that fat guy who will eat mac and cheese that has been on the stove for three days; eats it and wont look back!
2004 TJ X 5spd, 30-Aussie locker and Chromo'd, 44-lsd & disc brakes, 4" Currie lift, Anti-rock, 1.25" bl, UCF 1" skid & Lo-pro mount, AA SYE, JKS MML, ZJ V8 Tierod, JKS Trackbars, smittybuilt winch w/ synthetic line, Caravan fuel injectors, CAI, TB spacer, flowmaster 44 2.5", 35x12.50x15 km2, 7" fenders, uniden cb
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 06:22 PM
88hatchy
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The axle travels in an arc as it moves up and down. The arc gets closer to the transfer case output towards the bottom of the front suspension's travel. The suspension has more travel when its lifted, therefore when it travels farther down it moves closer to the transfer case then it would with stock suspension.

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post #12 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 06:29 PM
TanTJ04
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But with longer control arms (most lifts come with longer) the arc changes. I always had the control arms contact the shock mounts on the axle before anything would bind. (This was before the tummy tuck)

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriswj View Post
The 4.0 is like that fat guy who will eat mac and cheese that has been on the stove for three days; eats it and wont look back!
2004 TJ X 5spd, 30-Aussie locker and Chromo'd, 44-lsd & disc brakes, 4" Currie lift, Anti-rock, 1.25" bl, UCF 1" skid & Lo-pro mount, AA SYE, JKS MML, ZJ V8 Tierod, JKS Trackbars, smittybuilt winch w/ synthetic line, Caravan fuel injectors, CAI, TB spacer, flowmaster 44 2.5", 35x12.50x15 km2, 7" fenders, uniden cb
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 07:03 PM
88hatchy
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Not with stock mounting locations.

1997 TJ - Current project: Simple-ish build
1988 Civic Hatch - Runs 12's, gets 30 mpg
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanTJ04 View Post
So a shorter driveshaft is the answer? How is a stock shaft fine with stock arms? Most lifts have longer control arms to reposition the axle close to stock. Does the arc of the wheel change that much? I never heard any of this, not trying to start but I'm confused. Sure the cv binds at full droop, but how is that related to the driveshaft being long? The cv location and angle of the driveshaft are still staying the same. Please explain?

And, I understand about shops making money. They still charge by the hour for labor so fixing a driveshaft would generate more profit for a shop instead of uninstalling/reinstalling a driveshaft.

Jeeps shouldn't be jumped either! Lol

The front cv does not bind... the slip yoke bottoms out.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #15 of 15 Old 09-13-2013, 11:59 PM
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Simple answer... YOU CANNOT BE LAZY WHEN YOU DO A LIFT!!!

Everything needs to be checked before driving. On the front... You need to set the bumpstops properly. set bumpstops always so the bumps ( without rubber inserts ) always hit before the shock bottoms out. Then, install the shocks and let one side droop all the way down while the other is still pulled up to the bumpstop. Now, bolt on a tire... Does it eat up your fenders? then add more to the bumps to keep this from happening.
Now steer the wheel full lock right and left with someone watching you brake line on the fully drooped brake. does it pull tight? then get longer lines. Do this with DR. side down, Pass. side up and then opposite.
Now let the axle all the way down. ( both shocks on ) can you get the DS in... If not, then is it close enough that it simply won't go over the ears to get into the yoke? If not, then get it shortened.

Once set like this, then you can flex one side all the way up and the other all the way down, Turn full lock right and left too... then possibly get some hang time without ripping off fenders, grenading your TC or ripping off brake lines.

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