Driver's side tie-rod flip on Currie HD Steering

[RubiconRazorbac]

Well, since I've seen this mod mentioned alot lately (there's two threads currently speaking of it), I had some questions. I currently have the Currie and love it, but if there's a way to "tweak" it just a bit to improve things, I'm putting on my learning cap.

What are the benefits to flipping the driver's side of the tie rod on the Currie (other than some clearance)?

Are there drawbacks? Is it as simple as getting the correct size and taper reamed into the knuckle, then just flipping the TRE? I'm guessing it's more involved, but what is the process?

I saw this done on a TRUCKS! episode, and there's plenty of threads with people wanting to do the mod, some even with pics, but I'm looking for details. Heck, if it is worthwhile to do, I'll even post a write-up...

[jeepfreak4life7]

<Crawled. I've been wondering a lot about this lately.

[RubiconRazorbac]

LGriffith was thinking about doing it. Haven't heard much though on how it turned out.

[Jeepster83]

bump.

id like to know more about this too.

[fromme]

Hmm, not sure what exactly you are looking for, but here's some older pics when I did mine:







You can either use a reamer and tapered insert like from OK4WD or I used an insert from goferit offroad which requires the knuckle be drilled and then the insert welded. Some people have stated they experience a dead spot after doing this, but I have not. The downside is that you will have to modify the sway bar end link bracket. I chose to cut mine off and weld a new one on on the inside of the spring perch.
The benefit is more clearance, nothing else. I don't regret doing this, but in hindsight I wouldn't go through the trouble again. I still managed to whack the tie rod and bend it anyway. Hope that helps.

[NotURMailman]

Do you have any better close ups of the sway link bracket, showing exactly where you attached it? I'm still contemplating how to do mine. I had to cut both of mine off...

[Humboldt]

Heres an example of mrblaines magic he worked on mine. More pics in my gallery.

[RubiconRazorbac]

Originally Posted by Humboldt

Heres an example of mrblaines magic he worked on mine. More pics in my gallery.

Did you have any issues with the Currie prior to the flip, or did you do this for clearance purposes? I can see where you gained some space there.

[jeepfreak4life7]

I always thought it was just done to help keep the steering geometry less steep when you lift it. Any truth in that?

[mrblaine]

I do it for a few reasons, the first being that the TR is now parallel to the axle tube and I think that just looks better and you get more clearance.

It's not done that way from the factory because the Body of the TRE is actually situated in the maximum diameter of the rim or the rim centerline and if you flip with stock rims and backspace, the rim will rub the body.

I've also had a mild epiphany with regards to the swaybar link mount. It's almost impossible to get the TR to clear the mount with the flip, so when I was doing this last one, I figured out a much easier mount and location off the inner C. I'm working with my laser guy and press brake shop to get a few prototypes made to make this an easier job.

You can't do this without some welding and grinding anyway, so a better mount isn't a bad thing.

Also know that you will most likely have to add some bend to the Currie draglink to help the TR clear the front of the spring perch.

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7

I always thought it was just done to help keep the steering geometry less steep when you lift it. Any truth in that?

The geometry of the draglink which is what is affected by how far you lift the rig is unchanged by the TR flip.

[fromme]

Originally Posted by NotURMailman

Do you have any better close ups of the sway link bracket, showing exactly where you attached it? I'm still contemplating how to do mine. I had to cut both of mine off...

It is attached exactly like the original, just on the other side of the spring perch and pushed back.
If you look at how mrblaine did his, it's probably better since he kept it in the original location instead of mounting it inboard. Raising it up and pushing it back get's it in to the spring, so I just welded a new mount on the inboard side of the perch where there's more room. I was being lazy.
Why you had to cut the other side off I have no idea. Well actually I do, you must really have your axle pushed pretty far forward.

mrblaine, if/when you start producing that bracket that welds to the inner C, I'd love to get one. The location of the new one I welded gets in to the track bar mount at full stuff.

[NotURMailman]

Originally Posted by fromme

It is attached exactly like the original, just on the other side of the spring perch and pushed back.
If you look at how mrblaine did his, it's probably better since he kept it in the original location instead of mounting it inboard. Raising it up and pushing it back get's it in to the spring, so I just welded a new mount on the inboard side of the perch where there's more room. I was being lazy.
Why you had to cut the other side off I have no idea. Well actually I do, you must really have your axle pushed pretty far forward.

mrblaine, if/when you start producing that bracket that welds to the inner C, I'd love to get one. The location of the new one I welded gets in to the track bar mount at full stuff.

No, it's because he flipped both of mine. It's RHD and I wanted to use Currie LHD linkage (since Currie doesn't make RHD lnkage)...

[NotURMailman]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

I do it for a few reasons, the first being that the TR is now parallel to the axle tube and I think that just looks better and you get more clearance.

It's not done that way from the factory because the Body of the TRE is actually situated in the maximum diameter of the rim or the rim centerline and if you flip with stock rims and backspace, the rim will rub the body.

I've also had a mild epiphany with regards to the swaybar link mount. It's almost impossible to get the TR to clear the mount with the flip, so when I was doing this last one, I figured out a much easier mount and location off the inner C. I'm working with my laser guy and press brake shop to get a few prototypes made to make this an easier job.

You can't do this without some welding and grinding anyway, so a better mount isn't a bad thing.

Also know that you will most likely have to add some bend to the Currie draglink to help the TR clear the front of the spring perch.

I can't wait to see some details on that...

[fromme]

Originally Posted by NotURMailman

No, it's because he flipped both of mine. It's RHD and I wanted to use Currie LHD linkage (since Currie doesn't make RHD lnkage)...

Interesting. I certainly wouldn't, and didn't, guess that. Now I'm curious, didn't that mess up the relationship with drag link and track bar angles? Or do you have other things going on there?

And how the heck does that work with the tie rod being in front of the drag link? Just wondering, trying to pick up more useless information.