[cvd]

I’m coming up with a price of about $9k to set up my TJ properly for 35’s. This is with me doing all work except for regearing (which is a little optimistic). Here’s the way I’m adding it up, plus two alternatives for running 33’s. Based on these prices, I’ll likely do the low budget 33’s approach (when I find some used 4.11 axles). Any better ideas for getting to a good 35” setup?

BTW – I live in So Calif, only drive it on weekends, but will drive 90 miles on road (to Calico or Big Bear), play on the rocks all day, then drive home.
Cliff


Current:
Axles: D35/D30, 3.08 Aussie in front
Suspension: 2” spring lift, disconnects
Armor: stock
Brakes: stock
Wheel: stock 15&7 Ecco
Tires: BFG AT 31*10.50*15
Spare tire carrier: stock

Low Budget 33’s Setup
Axles: used D35/D30 w 4.11 (reinstall Aussie in front) $500
Suspension: BL (retain 2” springs) $150
Armor: no change
Steering: no change
Brakes: no change
Wheel: spacers (with existing wheels) $200
Tires: 5 BFG MT 33*10.50*15 $900
Spare tire carrier: no change
Total: $1750

Better 33’s Setups
Axles: S35 w Detroit, regear F&R to 4.11, reinstall Aussie $2000
Suspension: BL (retain 2” springs) $150
Armor: SYE/CV/UCA/TT/gas tank skid $1300
Steering: no change
Brakes: no change
Wheel: 5 MT Classic (15&8) $500
Tires: 5 MT MTZ 33*12.50*15 $900
Spare tire carrier: Rear bumper & rack (specifics undecided) $750
Total: $5600

35’s
Axles: D44 rear w Detroit (Northridge), regear D30 to 4.56 $2800
Suspension: RE 4.5 & BL $1700
Armor: SYE/CV/UCA/TT/gas tank skid $1300
Steering: Heavy duty steering system (Currie?) $400
Heavier steering pump and/or gear box? $250
Brakes: Heavy duty rotors & calipers (?) $500
Wheel: 5 MT Classic (15&8) $500
Tires: 5 MT MTZ 35*12.50*15 $900
Spare tire carrier: Rear bumper & rack (specifics undecided) $750
Total: $9000

[jimaug87]

Keep in mind I ran my 33's on the 30/35 combo with a lunchbox up front; so I don't have the experience your looking for. But it looks like your figuring is correct if you want to be properly set up for rocks.

[KnetAZ]

I think I see the problem here. You are mapping out all the mods you want before hand and budgeting actual prices to do it. Then you probably used a calculator or a spreadsheet or something that accurately added it all together.

Big mistake.

What you want to do is to plow blindly into the mods with complete disregard for the actual cost. Self delusion is helpful here. So is beer. Not opening the credit card statements after a big round of mods is also helpful. So is beer.
That way you can wind up with a rig on long arms and 35's that only cost about $199, like I did.


And yeah, those numbers look about right. Don't forget chro-mo axles and a winch

[FarFire70]

Yea that setup looks pretty inclusive. Going big is always expensive. It's surprising how much of a difference fitting 33s to fitting 35s can make. You might also want to make sure you add an engine skid if you're going to be hitting rocks. You'll want that protection. Rubicon Express is good stuff. They make a pretty inclusive system. You'd be surprised how much other kits can end up costing after you add in the parts RE includes.

[DBLJ]

Or you can go the 8.8 route and save a little $$$.

[rdhclark]

Originally Posted by KnetAZ

I think I see the problem here. You are mapping out all the mods you want before hand and budgeting actual prices to do it. Then you probably used a calculator or a spreadsheet or something that accurately added it all together.

Big mistake.

What you want to do is to plow blindly into the mods with complete disregard for the actual cost. Self delusion is helpful here. So is beer. Not opening the credit card statements after a big round of mods is also helpful. So is beer.
That way you can wind up with a rig on long arms and 35's that only cost about $199, like I did.

[bman9089]

Other than your gear ratios being off, and the fact that you haven't even considered a break upgrade with 35s (which you may find out that you'll want), all looks about right at a glance.

That's why people will start with 33s. They'll get the 'optional' stuff that can be added on with 33s that they'll eventually need with 35s. Things like beefier steering, adjustable trackbars, vanco big brake upgrade, wheels, armor, and perhaps a D44. Those things can be added with 33s now, and used (sometimes more effectively/vitally) with 35s later.

You can add a HUGE chunk of that now, and then upgrading to 35s won't be so shockingly expensive later on. But if you got the money, go for it. Just don't half *** the job.

When you do it, do it right. Else you're wasting time and money for potential problems.

[The Mean Fish]

Originally Posted by KnetAZ

I think I see the problem here. You are mapping out all the mods you want before hand and budgeting actual prices to do it. Then you probably used a calculator or a spreadsheet or something that accurately added it all together.

Big mistake.

What you want to do is to plow blindly into the mods with complete disregard for the actual cost. Self delusion is helpful here. So is beer. Not opening the credit card statements after a big round of mods is also helpful. So is beer.
That way you can wind up with a rig on long arms and 35's that only cost about $199, like I did.


And yeah, those numbers look about right. Don't forget chro-mo axles and a winch

I think I spent about $250 to get mine on 35s... I had to pay a little more in shipping because I couldn't wait for something to take 4 days to get here.

[JeepinYahoo]

Buy used!

$750 for a tire carrier..sure, but I got my LoD for $200 in very good condition.

Find deals like that and it really cuts down on cost.

[The Mean Fish]

Originally Posted by JeepinYahoo

Find deals like that and it really cuts down on cost.

Selling blood and sperm doesn't hurt either.

['B'wigstrailrig]

Keep looking on various forums for these parts and over time you will save alot of money. I put a thread for comparing the RE SF 4.5" kit to full tractions 4.5 kit and within a short period of tie I had a descent quote in my mailbox for the RE kit. Body lifts ae sometimes found in the for sale section also. As far as armor and tummy tucks go you really cant go wrong finding that stuff used as well.

[McLovin]

Originally Posted by cvd

I’m coming up with a price of about $9k to set up my TJ properly for 35’s. This is with me doing all work except for regearing (which is a little optimistic). Here’s the way I’m adding it up, plus two alternatives for running 33’s. Based on these prices, I’ll likely do the low budget 33’s approach (when I find some used 4.11 axles). Any better ideas for getting to a good 35” setup?

BTW – I live in So Calif, only drive it on weekends, but will drive 90 miles on road (to Calico or Big Bear), play on the rocks all day, then drive home.
Cliff


Current:
Axles: D35/D30, 3.08 Aussie in front
Suspension: 2” spring lift, disconnects
Armor: stock
Brakes: stock
Wheel: stock 15&7 Ecco
Tires: BFG AT 31*10.50*15
Spare tire carrier: stock

Low Budget 33’s Setup
Axles: used D35/D30 w 4.11 (reinstall Aussie in front) $500
Suspension: BL (retain 2” springs) $150
Armor: no change
Steering: no change
Brakes: no change
Wheel: spacers (with existing wheels) $200
Tires: 5 BFG MT 33*10.50*15 $900
Spare tire carrier: no change
Total: $1750

Better 33’s Setups
Axles: S35 w Detroit, regear F&R to 4.11, reinstall Aussie $2000
Suspension: BL (retain 2” springs) $150
Armor: SYE/CV/UCA/TT/gas tank skid $1300
Steering: no change
Brakes: no change
Wheel: 5 MT Classic (15&8) $500
Tires: 5 MT MTZ 33*12.50*15 $900
Spare tire carrier: Rear bumper & rack (specifics undecided) $750
Total: $5600

35’s
Axles: D44 rear w Detroit (Northridge), regear D30 to 4.56 $2800
Suspension: RE 4.5 & BL $1700
Armor: SYE/CV/UCA/TT/gas tank skid $1300
Steering: Heavy duty steering system (Currie?) $400
Heavier steering pump and/or gear box? $250
Brakes: Heavy duty rotors & calipers (?) $500
Wheel: 5 MT Classic (15&8) $500
Tires: 5 MT MTZ 35*12.50*15 $900
Spare tire carrier: Rear bumper & rack (specifics undecided) $750
Total: $9000

If I was going to spend $1700 on a suspension systrem I'd just go with a long arm kit, might be another couple hundred but at that ride hieght it would be worth it. You can save $250 by getting rid of the heavier steering pump. Also save $500 by skipping the rotors and brakes. The only brake upgrade I would consider would be to the Vanco big brake one. YOu can also save a few $$$ by snagging an XJ front driveshaft for the rear CV shaft. Anyway it is tough to do it all at once and you could break it down into stages.

[bman9089]

Originally Posted by Shawn_c

If I was going to spend $1700 on a suspension systrem I'd just go with a long arm kit, might be another couple hundred but at that ride hieght it would be worth it. You can save $250 by getting rid of the heavier steering pump. Also save $500 by skipping the rotors and brakes. The only brake upgrade I would consider would be to the Vanco big brake one. YOu can also save a few $$$ by snagging an XJ front driveshaft for the rear CV shaft. Anyway it is tough to do it all at once and you could break it down into stages.

From what I've read, upgrading the steering pump when you've reached 35"+ tires is not necessarily a bad idea.

[The Mean Fish]

Originally Posted by bman9089

From what I've read, upgrading the steering pump when you've reached 35"+ tires is not necessarily a bad idea.

I wouldn't worry about it until you started to have trouble with the stock pump. It's pretty stout and depending on the year of your TJ the stock steering box is pretty beefy as well.

[McLovin]

Originally Posted by bman9089

From what I've read, upgrading the steering pump when you've reached 35"+ tires is not necessarily a bad idea.

To me it wouldn't be worth the money unless I went to hydro assist. The only time I have trouble now w/35's is if I am leaning over onto a tire and I got it jammed up pretty good.