Do you for sure need Pinion Depth gauge when regearing? - JeepForum.com
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Unread 12-13-2012, 07:58 AM   #1
Hella
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Do you for sure need Pinion Depth gauge when regearing?

Okay well long story short I bought all the stuff for a gear install and was going to do it at school with my teacher because they have all the tools and so on. Well now the teacher cant do it and im kinda stuck with 600 dollar paperweights. I have done a regear before on a chevy 10 bolt but once again that was at school with all the tools. I have rubi dana 44's oh and I need a case spreader too

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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:01 AM   #2
rchase559
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You don't really need a pinion depth gage, or at least I haven't yet. You can use the markings on the pinions and measure the current shim stack to get a decent starting point.

There are a few pictures on here and other sites of people building their own case spreaders as well.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:05 AM   #3
Hella
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okay thanks, I really appreciate it, ill have to look into fabbing something up.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:30 AM   #4
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You don't need a pinion depth gauge or case spreader. In fact, unless I was installing an ARB, I wouldn't use a case spreader if one was available to me.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:42 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
You don't need a pinion depth gauge or case spreader. In fact, unless I was installing an ARB, I wouldn't use a case spreader if one was available to me.
X2. I did mine with neither tool and it's fine. I used the old depth and markings and calculated a starting point.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:51 AM   #6
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I did mine without a pinion depth gauge. I don't know if I was lucky or what, but I just re-used the old shims when I put everything back together and I had a perfect pattern. I think people over complicate the re-gearing process.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:55 AM   #7
Hella
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okay so on my pinion it is stamped 182 then below that is 2.625. So the installed depth should be 2.625? I guess im having a problem picturing what its supposed to look like when installed in the diff.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:59 AM   #8
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Even if you are starting with a bare housing with nothing to use as a starting point, you can start deep and work your way out fairly easily.

Dead blow hammers are a handy device.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 08:59 AM   #9
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I'm going to follow. Cause I would like to know
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Unread 12-13-2012, 09:06 AM   #10
freeskier93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hella
okay so on my pinion it is stamped 182 then below that is 2.625. So the installed depth should be 2.625? I guess im having a problem picturing what its supposed to look like when installed in the diff.
The 2.625 should be nominal depth. This is only helpful if you know what the nominal depth is for the old and new pinion, plus the size of the old shim stack.

For example. If the old pinion was marked 2.620" and the new is 2.625", you need to remove .005" from the original shim stack.
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Unread 12-13-2012, 09:47 AM   #11
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Read this about 100 times then you can do yours:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
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Unread 12-13-2012, 12:02 PM   #12
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A pinion shim stack of 42 thousandths should be close enough to start on a D44.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:03 PM   #13
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sorry to resurrect this thread but I am about to do a regear with an arb. do I need a case spreader? from what I have read it would be a non issue on a normal Carrier but because of the air intake and the locker it needs to be super tight. has anyone done an arb without using a spreader?
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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
sorry to resurrect this thread but I am about to do a regear with an arb. do I need a case spreader? from what I have read it would be a non issue on a normal Carrier but because of the air intake and the locker it needs to be super tight. has anyone done an arb without using a spreader?
From what I've read about ARBs preload issues are only prevalent on D30s because the housing flexes a lot. In an off road situation where the ARB is locked and the carrier is under a lot of load the carrier can deflect enough to cause a momentary leak. For other axles though a normal amount of preload should be fine.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 05:21 PM   #15
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thanks for the quick response. did I mention that this was a HPD30.
so you think I need one?
I had heard the reason was that if the preload was not tight enough it could cause the air intake shim to spin

Looking into this more I think the ring spinning is a red herring or maybe that was something with the old model.
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