DIY Fender lift - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
jgorm
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DIY Fender lift

So far i have only done the drivers rear. Took about 5hrs, but i spent a bunch of time just looking at it and making sure i didn't F' it up. I'm going to relocate the evap BS to the drivers side to make room on the passenger side to cut in deeper and build a little storage thing like i did on my last jeep. Then i'll modify my intake (with before and after dynos, just because i can).







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post #2 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 10:42 AM
krushnasty
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so did u cut the tub at all i couldnt rly se in the pic. i like the flare lift tho it looks cool gives alot of clearance i might do it after the snorkel and b4 the paint
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post #3 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Yup, I hacked out a pretty big section.
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 11:00 AM
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Can you post complete Jeep shots so I can get more of a feel how it looks overall? Thanks

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post #5 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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maybe sometime in the future when i get the fronts done too, don't have any now. All pictures are here Fender Lift
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 11:22 AM
blubaru2002
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Looks good so far.

Are you planning on doing a DIY highline on the front fenders also??? If so, Hopefully you take as much time on the front as you did on the rear. Some of the DIY front fender highlines i've seen on JF look a little ragged.

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I have to return some video tapes.
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm going to do the front too. That will take MUCH longer!! I never understood why people would highline the rear and not hack out all the metal that will still be in the way.
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 11:53 AM
blubaru2002
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lack of a sawzall and lack of balls

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I have to return some video tapes.
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post #9 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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lack of a sawzall and lack of balls
LOL, thanks You must have missed the picture of the sawzall in the bottom left pic. How about posting your hack job?
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post #10 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 12:06 PM
blubaru2002
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LOL, thanks You must have missed the picture of the sawzall in the bottom left pic. How about posting your hack job?
LOL. I saw the sawzall you used. You definately have a sawzall and balls dude.

I was answering your question of why pple would half *** a rear fender highline job.

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post #11 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 12:08 PM
Kiser10
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LOL, thanks You must have missed the picture of the sawzall in the bottom left pic. How about posting your hack job?

I think he was referring to your previous post?

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post #12 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 12:18 PM
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Looks good except for the flares. It would bug the hell out of me that they do not go all the way to the bottom of the tub anymore. Do you have any plans to fix that or are ya gonna leave it as is.
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post #13 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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LOL. I saw the sawzall you used. You definately have a sawzall and balls dude.

I was answering your question of why pple would half *** a rear fender highline job.
haha gotcha. I actually made 98% of the cut with a cut off wheel on a grinder. The metal is thin and the sawzall can be brutal sometimes when it catches.
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Do you have any plans to fix that or are ya gonna leave it as is.
As is. You can't do a highline without lifting the fenders. I could care less and think it looks just fine.
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-01-2010, 09:58 PM
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Looks good except for the flares. It would bug the hell out of me that they do not go all the way to the bottom of the tub anymore. .
x2. You did a good job on it, but the flare thing would really bug me on my rig. Kind of makes it look like a body-lift gone wrong. I think it would look good without the flare though. Kudos for the cajones to do it!
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-02-2010, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday i relocated the evap. It was a pain due to a couple things, one being i loaned my right angle drill to a friend (who is out of town!) Doh!. That cost me at least an hour, but i ended up using one of those twist bendy things on the end of my drill with some hex shank drill bits. Then i finished off the holes with self tapping sheet metal screws. I spent a lot of time trying to unplug that stupid electrical connector because its very hard to see when the evap is in the original location. Remember that the red safety thing needs to get pushed down about 1/8" before the connector can open. I just cut the wires (had to get done sometime). I moved the T for the vacuum lines to the other side along with the evap. I cut the small hose that goes on the t and that was a ***** to get onto the t. I gave up and used a larger piece of hose to go over it with a clamp. I almost busted out my lighter to soften up the end and make it easier, but not on a gas line!! Once you hack up the bracket that the evap had, its actually a good fit on the drivers side. It pretty much butts up against the back of the tub where the tail light comes thru (no flush mounts for me now )
I welded on a tab to the metal brace and then a piece of SS to go across and bolt onto the tub seams. The electrical part is super easy, the wires start on the drivers side to just match up the colors. You will need a long thick walled vacuum tube to run from the tank hat to the other side. I had some from something else, but make sure the tube won't crush down under vacuum.

It took about 4-5hrs just for the relocation, and my hands had plenty of bleeding cuts on them at the end of the day. I hate working in cramped situations! Pics will come once i lift the passenger side.

I think it will look much better with some 35s filling the gap.
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