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Unread 04-11-2014, 08:35 AM   #1
HAFICON
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Distributor 4.0L ?

1999 Jeep Wrangler
been sitting about 2 years previous owner broke a cap bolt off in the distributor and left it.

Am I missing something here?



Cap, Rotor, and pick up coil I have but are not installed in the photo.

I have searched high and low on the internet and can not find a good picture. Looking for someone that has done a tune up on your TJ am I missing anything from the distributor? I bought this Jeep used, the PO had removed the distributor so I do not know right off what was in it.I replaced the coil as it was bad.

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Unread 04-11-2014, 08:59 AM   #2
robncar
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I don't see the camshaft position sensor (see illustration)...

INSTALLATION
(1) Install camshaft position sensor to distributor. Align sensor into notch on distributor housing.
(2) Connect wiring harness.
(3) Install rotor.
(4) Install distributor cap. Tighten mounting screws.
etj_8d14.jpg

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Unread 04-11-2014, 09:55 AM   #3
HAFICON
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My mistake I was calling the cam shaft position sensor a pick up coil. I do have it. But hey great info just what I needed.. People like you are the reason I love JeepForum.com

Thanks a lot man.
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Unread 04-11-2014, 10:02 AM   #4
robncar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAFICON View Post
My mistake I was calling the cam shaft position sensor a pick up coil. I do have it. But hey great info just what I needed.. People like you are the reason I love JeepForum.com

Thanks a lot man.
No problem on the naming, it's an inductive pickup so "coil" works too.

Good luck with this and ask any questions...
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Unread 04-11-2014, 10:21 AM   #5
HAFICON
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Thanks about to test and replace the Crank position sensor hopefully then this thing will start.
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Unread 04-11-2014, 05:41 PM   #6
HAFICON
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Got it running. Till the catalytic converter stopped up.. Found it when I burnt my hand on the floor board jumped under to see what was going on and holy glowing metal.
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Unread 04-13-2014, 11:38 PM   #7
HAFICON
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My options:

order and wait a few days
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...540&cc=1431777

Buy it now and retro fit all the old piping, I just installed a new flange gasket and studs at the manifold to down pipe, piping is in good shape.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._665077_17488_

Money is a huge issue with this TJ as I got it cheap and trying to get it running correctly to resale. Also time is a factor, right now the jeep idles pretty good when you bring the RPMs up it does great till it hit 2k then it races up on its own. When it is put in gear the TJ dies unless you give it throttle and then it bogs bad. Now I know with out a cat on it at the moment it is impossible to say, I got the old one off with the intention of installing the new one right away but parts house has an inventory problem. They should have it back in stock on tonight's truck ready for purchase tomorrow. Let me also point out the Jeep is parked it is not being driven, only reason I ran it with out a Cat was it had to be moved from where it was sitting (blocking the wife in), I did have the muffler and 02 sensor hooked up with an adapter. The jeep was doing the same thing RPM wise and dyeing in gear when the bad catalytic converter was installed, so I do not think this was the problem but for sure needed to be changed. Just debating on if I want to save 30 dollars and order the system or buy the cat on and spend $30 more. I fly out Easter Sunday for 2 weeks would like to have the system back installed before I leave.

So if you read the first post you would see the Jeep sat about 2 years, I added a bottle of Iso-Heat, then fresh fuel. Outside of get the new cat installed any pointers?

The Problem Child.
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Unread 04-14-2014, 06:41 AM   #8
byoungblood
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I'd get the drop in unit for that price. You'd be hard pressed to buy a converter only and have someone weld it in for that price.

As long as it sat up, my guess is probably a fuel issue. How much old fuel was in the Jeep before you added fresh gas? You may just need to drain the tank, replace the fuel filter while it is down, and then fill up with a fresh tank of fuel afterwards. When you say it races above 2000 rpm, does it just keep revving to the redline until you shut it off?
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Unread 04-14-2014, 11:05 AM   #9
HAFICON
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Fuel I the tank was about 2 years kinda unknown. Was less than 1/4 tank.
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Unread 04-14-2014, 05:03 PM   #10
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Well I got a discount and went with the bolt in converter. No leaks all good exhaust wise. Jeep runs a lot better with it all back together but still has a definite timing issue Jeep ideals Great but when in gear it still bogs down will move but will not get above 1k rpm.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 12:13 PM   #11
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If you can't test your fuel pressure then test your fuel pump capacity.

Disconnect the fuel line at the tank (after depressurizing) and place a rubber hose on the line coming out of the pump. Place the other end in a graduated cylinder or any container you can measure with will do. Jump the fuel pump relay (with the key in the on position) for 7 seconds. Measure the amount of gas pumped in that time. It should be about 1/4 liter (about 8.5 oz).

If you are low it is a good indicator you aren't keeping good pressure either and you need a new fuel pump. I had a similar issue (couldn't push it past 2k RPM). I was able to get a used fuel pump module for my '98 for $40 from a place called New England Parts and Services. They have no web site but if you look them up they should have a number to call.

Good luck.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 01:32 PM   #12
HAFICON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStMarie View Post
If you can't test your fuel pressure then test your fuel pump capacity.

Disconnect the fuel line at the tank (after depressurizing) and place a rubber hose on the line coming out of the pump. Place the other end in a graduated cylinder or any container you can measure with will do. Jump the fuel pump relay (with the key in the on position) for 7 seconds. Measure the amount of gas pumped in that time. It should be about 1/4 liter (about 8.5 oz).

If you are low it is a good indicator you aren't keeping good pressure either and you need a new fuel pump. I had a similar issue (couldn't push it past 2k RPM). I was able to get a used fuel pump module for my '98 for $40 from a place called New England Parts and Services. They have no web site but if you look them up they should have a number to call.

Good luck.
ok thanks good info there.. I know it has a little bit of a timing issue I believe the distributor is off by about one tooth. found an old thread here going to re check all of it and will let you know.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/timing-4-0l-508405/
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Viair 450c, ARB Air lockers,
4.88's and TNT truss.
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/blues-jeep-build-lots-pictures-1509366/[/url]
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Unread 04-15-2014, 02:36 PM   #13
HAFICON
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So with out adjusting anything I got the harmonic balance mark on 0"" and pulled the #1 plug to ensure TDC, and marked the distributor and pulled cap hoping to see the rotor way off as that would be a easy fix but. It looks to be almost dead on. What do you guys think?

Crank timing mark


Distributor, you can kinda see the scratch mark I made to mark the location of the #1 plug wire.
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Viair 450c, ARB Air lockers,
4.88's and TNT truss.
My build thus far.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/blues-jeep-build-lots-pictures-1509366/[/url]
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Unread 04-15-2014, 02:43 PM   #14
HAFICON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStMarie View Post
If you can't test your fuel pressure then test your fuel pump capacity.

Disconnect the fuel line at the tank (after depressurizing) and place a rubber hose on the line coming out of the pump. Place the other end in a graduated cylinder or any container you can measure with will do. Jump the fuel pump relay (with the key in the on position) for 7 seconds. Measure the amount of gas pumped in that time. It should be about 1/4 liter (about 8.5 oz).

If you are low it is a good indicator you aren't keeping good pressure either and you need a new fuel pump. I had a similar issue (couldn't push it past 2k RPM). I was able to get a used fuel pump module for my '98 for $40 from a place called New England Parts and Services. They have no web site but if you look them up they should have a number to call.

Good luck.
Autozone loan a tool has a pressure test kit. I am going to grab that and test pressure. Looks like timing is straightened out.. I can remember a time when I was working on autos for a living and said enough got some education and joined the Coast Guard... Now I remember why I quit working on vehicles. Engine rooms on boats are much easier to work in.
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AEV 2.5 with M.O.R.E 1" body lift
Viair 450c, ARB Air lockers,
4.88's and TNT truss.
My build thus far.
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/blues-jeep-build-lots-pictures-1509366/[/url]
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Unread 04-15-2014, 06:27 PM   #15
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Depending on the type of connection you have available you may need a special tool to access the fuel rail.
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